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Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by mjcyates, Dec 27, 2016.
That's encouraging, maybe I just caught them at a bad time.
Sadly, there've been a series of threads here suggesting something's gone wrong at Triode in the past couple years. Hate to say it, but I switched to APD.
BTW the MC trannies at AES and CE Dist. are the same as the ClassicTone models -- just different model numbers.
Yup, Triode kept $450 of mine and never delivered my order of January 2016. Even after repeated acknowledgements that my order had not been filled and as many promises to make good, they ultimately just vanished into the void. Huge disappointment.
This showed up on my door step today from Pete Mather. Looks great! Pete does great work for a fair price.
Looks incredible! Enjoy!
That looks great. G-Ruby To bad about Triode What I would do is find Triodes Address and contact the local DA's office and file a complaint
So I am finishing up the wiring on this amp and I have a question. According to Rob's layout which is what I am using, the power transformer has a white and a black wire. The power transformer I am using has two black wires. Does it matter which wire goes to the white wire from the power cord? If so, how do I differentiate between the two black wires?
From PT One black to on off switch one black to cord white (neutral ) Hot (black) from cord goes to fuse .
Thanks, that's what I thought, just needed confirmation. Much appreciated.
So tubes showed up in my mailbox today. Probably not the smartest move but I just threw them in there and flipped the switch. So I am two for two on amps. It fired right up with no apparent problems. B+1 is 383 B+2 is 337 and B+3 is 251, heaters are 6.5. I think that all sounds reasonable. Rectifier tube is 5Y3 and 12ax7 are from a 77 Fender Champ. I bought new Tung Sol 6v6 and EH 12ay7. Sounds great, little on the dark side. There is a little noise (nothing major) that I might be able to get rid of by moving some wires around. I will be posting some more final build pics. Thanks Rob for your great website. I have two successful builds under my belt now thanks to your layouts and info!
Sooner or later you have to flip the switch. I used the light bulb limiter on my first build, one step above flipping the switch. Now I use a variac even with the variac not sure what to expect if there’s a problem. So far I’ve been lucky on all my builds output jacks got me twice. Well you have it fired up and it’s working that’s what counts.
So my amp blew a fuse for some reason. What might be the most likely culprit?
Did you use a slow blow fuse? I think thats the standard.
No suggestions for the fuse issue, but my standard "first power up" is plugging the amp into a power strip with a breaker on it, and the outlet is a GFI. I turn the strip off and the amp on. Then flip the strip switch and give everything the first few minutes to watch for issues. Then I always check the chassis with my multimeter to be sure there is no voltage from a short before I touch it.
To the OP, I'd love to know what you think of that speaker. I have the g12q in mine and love it, but I've thought about that one for a higher powered option.
I think the speaker sounds really good. I have one in a Hot Rod Deluxe as well. I think for the 5E3 I might like something a little brighter.
Received some new fuses. Also replaced the old 12ax7 with new JJ 12ax7. I re-did some of the wiring to shorten some lengths. So far seems to be working fine with no issues. I also purchased a new JJ 5Y3 rectifier tube but it raised the B+ voltage to over 400 so I put back in the old 5Y3 from the 77 Champ.
A fine amp in every way.