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69 Thinline build with body found in a dumpster...

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by Kriticaster, Jun 5, 2018.

  1. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Very good advice... which I haven’t taken...

    I did measure, but I’m not sure how carefully...
    Everything has been ordered... I hope I haven’t wasted too much money...

    It’s going to be a while before all the parts arrive, so I’ve got a lot of looking forward to do...

     
  2. Flyboy

    Flyboy Tele-Meister

    261
    Aug 13, 2009
    scotland
    It does look like a GFS body.....relic aside. :)
     
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  3. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Ok, so how to tell where the body is from?

    It’s not got any distinguishing marks, serial numbers, stickers... anything...

    The relic stamp looks like the Fender ones, but in my book that means nothing...

    So how to tell if this is a Fender, GFS or something else?

    Please explain your magikal ways...

    For me really it’s the same... but the back plate I’ve ordered is a relic’d ‘Fender custom shop’ one, just because it looked cool and was cheap...

    So it would be nice if it were actually a Fender body to start with... not that it matters... the rest of the guitar won’t be Fender in the slightest, other than that the good man inspired so much...
     
  4. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Giving it some thought... if I were to rub the whole body back and refinish...

    What to do about the really deep damage to the wood?

    The back isn’t so important, but has the worst chips...

    The upper edge has the nasty saw cut into it...

    And the front has some quite deep dents with the paint pushed in, along with lots of superficial scratches possibly from a wire brush or similar...

    How much wood needs to be sanded off to get rid of that damage?

    Obviously the saw cut can’t be sanded out, but if filled won’t it show clearly under a tru oil/tung oil finish??

    Would it be better to use a rotary/orbital sander attachment on a power drill or do it by hand?? Just thinking the sanding attachment would hopefully give a more uniform finish... but could take off too much wood quite easily?

    This is why I opted for keeping the body as is (and for her to tell her war stories)

    I’d still like a ‘gently relic’d’ look on the hardware anyway, even if giving the body a new finish...

    Pics attached for reference...

    IMG_5097.JPG IMG_5098.JPG IMG_5100.JPG IMG_5101.JPG IMG_5102.JPG
     
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  5. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    And then what about grain filler etc...

    It becomes a can of worms that I don’t care to eat...

    I just wanted to build a playable guitar...
     
    nojazzhere likes this.
  6. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

    Sep 14, 2005
    Nueces Strip
    Nice find.
    I would have climbed into the dumpster and unloaded the whole thing into the parking lot looking for the neck, but then I'm OCD like that
     
    Flaneur, jvin248 and Kriticaster like this.
  7. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    I did have a good look around for the neck and any other parts, but it was a fairly empty dumpster...
     
  8. radiocaster

    radiocaster Friend of Leo's

    Aug 18, 2015
    europe
    There's something you can use to fill the dents, not sure what it's called and it might be called something else in Greece. Then just sand over that and it won't be really noticeable.

    Or you can leave it like that, it doesn't look too bad.
     
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  9. Mistercharlie

    Mistercharlie Tele-Holic

    766
    Apr 28, 2015
    Germany
    Leave the dents. It looks cool.
     
  10. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Nice one folks!

    So I’ve been giving thought to an oil finish...

    As I understand it tung oil takes more coats and doesn’t exactly seal the guitar, looks more matt...

    While Tru oil takes less costs and can get a lacquer looking glossy finish...

    I’m thinking that a more matt look would suit the guitar better...

    How much prep will the body need to look her best? (I know that is subjective)

    Probably I will wait for the parts to arrive (at least pickguard and neck) to do a mock up and see how she looks...

    Is either Tru or tung better to make the grain pop? Which one darkens the wood more??
     
  11. Ira7

    Ira7 Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    61
    Jan 8, 2008
    Coral Springs, FL
    Those are veneers you have on the front and back. I'm pretty sure. I think you can see it clearly in one of the photos.

    When some manufacturers make raw bodies, they don't know whether it's going to be painted or stained. So instead of grain-matching several pieces, they glue a thin veneer on there. (The veneer might also "take" paint finishes better than hard woods.) In other words, you're going to spend a lot more money on a natural finish guitar that has really good grain matching, especially since they're often just 2-piece, and only meet in the middle. Most moderately priced bodies use at least 3 pieces of lumber.

    You can completely sand a veneer off with an orbital sander, real easy, and finish the raw wood. Now, your multi-piece body might have bizarre grain matching for staining, dyeing, oil., etc., but who cares? A lot of those guitars look cool. (If you're painting, of course, the mismatch doesn't really matter.)

    You just have to be careful because yours is a THINLINE! Depending on how they chambered it, that veneer might be the ENTIRE top.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018
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  12. Flyboy

    Flyboy Tele-Meister

    261
    Aug 13, 2009
    scotland
    It doesn't matter what it is.

    Defo fill those holes with wood filler but they'll still be seen. Grain fill for sure, and that's got to be done if you want a flat finish. But I reckon you already know the way to go with it. Get to it and let's see the guitar ready to go.
     
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  13. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Ira7, I'm pretty sure that there aren't any veneers on this body... The back is a separate piece from the front and body, but it's probably 5 mm thick, so not exactly a veneer...
    The main body is one piece that looks like it's been routed (the neck pocket at least) by machine... So whatever that means...

    But I'll look again, carefully, when I get home tonight, and take extra photos...

    I do appreciate the warning thou! That would be an epic fail sanding the top back too much...
     
  14. stratoblaster

    stratoblaster Tele-Meister

    445
    Aug 2, 2006
    Scottsdale AZ
    That stamp screams Fender. I've only seen it on Fender bodies.
     
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  15. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Flyboy, I'm thinking about taking her back to wood, but not filling the holes (maybe the saw cut thou...) and going for a raised-grain type texture...
    As I understand it Tung oil will give a more matte finish, leave open pores, and raise the grain a bit... Does that sound right?

    It doesn't feel right for this guitar to try to make the finish (too) perfect, when she's a scuffed up Trashcaster found in a dumpster in a tumble-down village in Crete! (Crete is pretty much the living embodiment of a scuffed up dumpster... And I say that in the most affectionate way possible)

    I'm going to go for a gently tarnished finish on the nickel hardware, to give a used and aged look... So think some character from the body will go well with that...

    The only thing I'm regretting now is that I went for a yellowy-orange vintage gloss neck (thinking I wouldn't be doing any finishing myself) but now I'm thinking that perhaps I rub the back of the neck back and finish in tung oil too...

    I want to feel the wood grain and let her breathe... And I don't like glossy necks... Of course, I can always upgrade later, but better if I don't have to...
     
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  16. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
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    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Well I really hope so! I'm going to take it and run with it... (not literally... As my pappy always told me 'Never run with guitars!')

    So hopefully the stuff I've ordered will fit in perfectly *crosses fingers*
     
  17. stratoblaster

    stratoblaster Tele-Meister

    445
    Aug 2, 2006
    Scottsdale AZ
    I almost think you should just assemble it "as is". It's kind of got it's own character and it tells it's own story. Also if you can get the Gotoh aged HW in Crete, it's got a pretty good patina on it. I wouldn't say it's 100% convincing as genuinely aged HW. But it's good quality and well priced (here anyway).

    https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/guitar_parts?filters=Gotoh=Relic Series
     
  18. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    That was the original idea, just to leave it ‘as is’ and assemble... but then I went and asked for advice

    Hmmm...

    Well I have time to wait for the parts...

    But do I want to do a mock up with the parts and see how she looks... or spend the waiting time rubbing back the wood and oiling?

    Hmmm...

     
  19. Marquee Moon

    Marquee Moon TDPRI Member

    Age:
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    21
    Jun 7, 2018
    New Jersey
  20. Kriticaster

    Kriticaster Tele-Meister

    Age:
    41
    479
    Nov 5, 2017
    Crete, Greece
    Thanks for all the advice and encouragement peeps!

    No new pics (of veneer, or not) yet as a Cretan wedding is happening soon... so eating and drinking takes priority... but man do I have a bad head this morning!
    Mixing white wine and Raki (grape spirits) with only 3 hours sleep isn’t a good recipe even with huge amounts of food...
     
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