Ok, unload on me, ha ha. I'm very close to installing the board on my marathon 5F1 build. Chipping away at it here and there when I get a chance. Could y'all take a quick look and give some comments. Overall, none of my leads are straight. I've added some stress relief to them all as per advice I've read elsewhere. (Also, anything that's in my possession for more than 48 hours ends up with some kind of abnormality, so they are all funky to start with.) I've left a pretty good tag end on each resistor in the dropping string with the idea that they are probably the most likely to have to be swapped out once I put power to the amp. The V1A Cathode was attached to the bypass cap by necessity. I like the way Hoffman wires his busses and jumpers so I sorta copied that idea, just moving all the turrets on the preamp circuit out away from the power side. The downstream effect of this was that the cathode resistor no longer reached the turrets. Poor planning on my part. I like to run my under board wires up the turret and crimp them over and then solder. Its a nice visual que to me that there's something else going on at that junction. Otherwise, I try to keep the turret holes empty until they are needed. This shot gives you a better view of the PT cathode resistor, it appears to have adequate space between the other components. The PT bears some explaining because I'm not sure that I've got it right. This power chord black wire is to the bottom lug of the fuse. White neutral wire goes to an ungrounded lug on the side of the chassis where it meets one of the 120v primaries from the PT. Green ground wire loops around the PT and is attached to a grounded lug at the lower right PT mounting bolt. If the power chord is ripped out, the ground wire should be long enough that it's the last thing to tear out. The PT center tap is grounded to the same lug. The other 120v PT primary goes to the switch. This is where the transformer meets the power chord. The center lug is a grounding lug, the outer lugs are not. I ran two laps of 22 AWG through the holes here to tie all the lugs to ground. The CT and the mains ground is here. I will attach the power section ground to this as well. The signal ground will go to a similar lug on the other end of the chassis and all my inputs, outputs and volume/power pot will be isolated. I'm not isolating the lamp. Anyway, that's kinda it. The grid stoppers will be flown from the input jacks. I'll use shielded cable from there to V1. Also considering shielded cable to replace the white signal wire from the volume pot to the preamp tube, but not sure of how effective that will be in reducing noise. It might be an unnecessary waste of RG174. Overall I'm using 22 gauge for signal and power and 20 gauge for grounds. Filaments are also 22 AWG. Based on what I've read here, those seem adequate. I'm still not quite sure how to ground the isolated speaker output jack. Would I run a ground wire all the way to R6 (V1B Cathode)? Every solder has been checked for continuity and they all surprisingly check out. I love my new soldering station, it actually makes soldering enjoyable. My goal is to build a Champ with an 8 inch speaker that's solid enough to record with, so I want to limit noise as much as possible. Thanks in advance for any help.