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Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by mcentee2, Feb 11, 2019.
If I could post/host pictures here I would, I don't have any online gallery though!
Are you posting from a computer? The 'upload a file' works great without a gallery, or you can just drag and drop your image file into this message area to upload it and make it available to insert inline.
As a general comment about grounding, I've repaired all sorts of amps (especially 50s/60s off-brand amps -- Harmony, Magnatone, Bogen, Valco, Traynor, etc.) that use what I can only describe as grounding chaos -- stuff soldered or bolted to whatever nearest available point makes contact with the chassis. Time and again, I think "that shouldn't work." Somehow it does. And somehow, amps that are visibly full of ground loops sound incredibly quiet (as if in defiance of the laws of physics). Add the fact that most of these amps rocked 2-prong cords with no safety ground whatsoever, and it all gets a bit scary (I make it a policy that any customer with an old 2-prong corded amp must allow installation of a 3-prong, or I refuse the job).
That being said, there is no excuse for anyone today to follow a 'random' ground scheme when there is so much excellent information out there about how to do it right. In my limited experience of building, the clean builds (and the quietest ones) are always the ones where the grounding is neatly organized -- bus for the preamp, grounded at one end only, preferably terminating at an input jack; star bolt for the power supply; dedicated ground bolt for the safety ground, etc. etc. -- "Clean" because ground connections go where they need to go, in short, straight lines, and aren't criss-crossing and flying about all over the place.
Following these sorts of best practices isn't harder, it's easier -- because all you have to do is read up on it (Rob R, Randall Aitken, Merlin Blencowe aka Valve Wizard, etc.) and the principles are laid out for you.
Here is one to be going on with!