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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by TenaciousP, Apr 22, 2016.
Nice ice tea shade there.
Alright, gotta have an update on how the spraying is going.
Well, I think I got a dye mixture figured out that I like. It faded to a nice ice tea color burst. I plan to have a major progress update very soon. I am working on the actual guitar at this point. But I’ve been feeling a bit under the weather the last few days. When I get to feeling a bit better, I will post what I’ve got. Soon! I promise.
You're sure going to a lot of trouble for just one guitar...
Gonna be taking orders soon?
One of you guys should have patented this. Behold the True Channel binding jig.
LOL! Yea. It is a lot of trouble for one guitar. But I enjoy the challenge and the learning experience. No, I’m not planning on taking orders. However, I’m not gonna say this is the only LP I’m ever gonna build. That’s why I like making jigs and templates for most things so it’ll be repeatable and easier if I do make another at some point.
I wish I could say I was the one who came up with the binding channel jig. But I’m sure the idea has been around for alot longer than I’ve been building guitars.
I get it. Much the same way myself. Except that whatever it is I'm working on, I don't have a Les Paul at the end of the tunnel!
The way to fix that is to buy some wood and start building an LP. Then you will have it at the end of the tunnel.
That's the plan, eventually, among other things. It's not procrastination - I'm working as fast as I can.
Ladies and gentlemen, the moment you all... err.. some of you have been waiting for has finally arrived!
I present to you The Burst!
I decided it would be more exciting to show the results first before going through all of what it took to get to this point. Anyhow, now that that is out of the way, for those that are interested, I’ll go back to the beginning of the finishing process. It’s a tale of many trials and tribulations. But in the end worked out pretty well.
So I guess my last update showed the pore filler applied and then a thin coat of clear lacquer applied to seal the color in. So after a few days of drying, I took the masking tape off of the headstock and the top of the body. What I found was upsetting to say the least.
It appeared that a blob of pore filler had gotten into one of the tone pot holes via the control cavity and had leached oily red dye under the masking tape. Horribly staining my flame maple top. Disaster!!!
It took a while of think and trying different methods to remove the stain but none seemed to work. I tried sanding it off with 400 grit sand paper and the results were ok but not a complate removal. The weird thing is after a few hours the stain would darken again. I guess the oil carrying the dye would migrate back to the surface from down in the wood fibers. I tried cleaning it with solvents but it would always come back after a few hours. So finally in a last ditch effort, I sanded the stain down until it was as light as it could get and sealed the entire top with dewaxed shellac. It soaked in to the wood fibers and dried very quickly. This prevented the oily stain from migrating back to the surface again. After a few days with no darkening, I was satisfied that the stain had been eliminated as much as it could be.
Time to press forward with the finishing process. Here it is with everything but the top masked off.
I started with a good coat of yellow. Then moved on to the red over that. Apparently I didn’t take any pics of the red being sprayed, but I just started at the edge and built the red up while moving in to create the blended orangey area. I carried the burst in kinda far so that the orange area would help mask the stain as I figure the knob and pointer washer won’t cover all of it. Once the burst was sprayed, I gave it a coat of clear to sorta melt it all together.
Once I let the lacquer dry for an hour or so. I removed the masking tape from the sides of the body. I then used a razor blade to scrape the colored lacquer off the top edge of the binding.
With all that done, I moved on to the headstock face.
In retrospect, I think my pore filler was a little too runny. You can see how it stained the holly veneer where it went through the tuner holes and around the edges a bit. Anyhow it was about to painted black. I mixed lamp black pigment with clear lacquer to create my black lacquer. After spraying, it looked good at first under average light. But, under very bright light, I could see the red stains through it. The Black was not opaque enough. I ended up sanding it back off and respraying with lacquer I mixed using some Stew Mac black pigment. It worked like a charm. Very black!
Using a razor blade I carefully scraped the black off the MOP logo.
At this point, it was time for some clear coats. But I think I’m maxed out on my pics for this post. Be back momentarily.
OK... I was one!
Great work. Probably I would have left some more yellow, but that's just my personal taste and I would not be able to make such a good job!
Great and looking forward for the next step!
For the clear coats, I started with some clear lacquer that I had put in a glass jar and sat out in the yard in direct sunlight for about 6 months. It looks very dark here but when sprayed out thin just gives the bindings and the logo a bit of a tan.
Oh yea, before spraying the clear I decided to do a 50’s style stamped serial number on the head stock. I found an antique mechanical number stamper at a flea market a while back for cheap. It happened to have a font style almost identical to 50’s Gibson serial numbers. I think these look slightly wider than the originals. But I’m doing a 100% replica anyway. I just thought it would look cool. I chose 9 1706 with 9 for ‘59, 17 for 2017, the year I hope to have this thing completed and 06 as my sixth guitar build.
I used black India ink from hobby lobby for the stamping. After a few practice stamps on some scrap, I did it on the headstock.
I applied some very very think misty coats of lacquer over the serial number after it dried do a day. This helps keep it from melting the ink once I start spraying the wet clear coats.
Anyhow, I sprayed the amber lacquer first. Especially on the bindings and the logo. It’s not super yellow looking, it just knocks the brightness down a bit and gives the binding and logo a bit warmer hue.
I followed that with just plain clear lacquer. Until I felt like it was built up enough that I can wet sand and not sand through to the color coats. I’ll let it set up for a few weeks and then wet sand an buff. Here are a few pics showing where I’m at now.
Fretboard masking removed.
Thanks for the kind words!
Yea, I didn’t really want to carry the red in that far. But with the unfortunate stain, I felt like I had to in order to cover it. I also think that when 50’s LP’s were new, the red probably came in more than most people think. I’ve seen some pics of originals where you could see reddish shadows with the pointer washers removed around even the inner pot holes. I know where the stain is and I’ll see how much of that area is covered by the knob and pointer. Then I’ll decide if I want to fade the top a little with UV. With a little sun light, the orangey area where the red is very thin, will recede a lot exposing more yellow. I’ll see what I want to do when I get to that point. For now, I guess I’ll try to work on some pickups while the lacquer cures.
I don't want to be misunderstood. It's a looker! And I agree with you that on original Gibson red often cover a lot of the surface. Great work!
Pretty sweet! Glad you were able to recover so well from the stain. Serial number looks cool!
She's a tiger lady and sure to growl.
Looks incredible. I am so jealous. Can't wait for the next installment.
About the logo scraping - once you spray the lacquer over it, do you see the outline of the logo still? If not, how do you know what to scrape?
I've definitely seen not perfectly scraped Gibson logos from the 60's and I wondered before I found out if was scraped rather than left longer and sanded down.