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2nd Build - Ash Body - Maple Neck - Black Guard

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by PingGuo, Jul 27, 2018.

  1. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    Thank you. I tend to make a lot of progress very quickly once I've learned something. But I train wreck when I bumble through something new.

    I just haven't had a train wreck on the project yet.

    I thought I came close with under thicknessing the headstock. But it turns out the tuners I ordered are split shaft and use ferrules rather than screw down bushings. So all is good there.

    I'm also still trying to get the round over bit figured out. The 1/8" round over is so small...

    It seemed like the bit depth had 2 settings. the first setting is almost no roundover. the second setting is just a little too deep.

    The too deep setting leaves a ledge. That I ended up sanding down with the palm sander... I probably should have taken some pictures of that.

    I was using the stock sanding spindles that came with my ROSS. I think they're somewhere around 100. Honestly, it was a pretty risky decision.

    I just tried to be patient. And use a very light touch.

    I've been meaning to get some 220 grit spindles. That sure would be nice for getting the edges of the body smooth. Right now it's sanded to 220 except for the edges. I'll probably do those by hand on this project.

    Best @eallen & @Luthi3rz

    -Vic
     
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  2. Zeonoid

    Zeonoid Tele-Meister

    455
    Dec 17, 2008
    Slovakia, EU
    what a lovely build congratulations to skilled craftsman !
     
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  3. Not to steal PinGou's thunder but I always use my ross to rough in heal and headstock trasitions on necks headstock shaping. It just takes practice but works grate. More conteol for me than a rasp. The most common grits available are 80 and 120. I believe the sleves the Rigid comes with is 80.

    Eric
     
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  4. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    I love the ROSS for that.

    I think the problem @Luthi3rz has run into is that it's really easy to break the straight line that the router sets up when you're trying to get the router burn off of the neck.

    I had issues with that on the last neck I did. I was doing the shaping and ended up reaching the fretboard and put a goofy looking wiggle in the neck. :oops:
     
    eallen likes this.

  5. Ahh, I got bit by that years ago as well. Since I decided to only use a ross on the headstock and back of neck transitions. I never touch the sides along the fretboard.

    To remove sanding marks along the fretboard and for pocket fitting I use a 16" piece of corian with sandpaper glued to both sides. One side has 80 grit and the other 120. I run it straight down the sides like a hand plane in one direction to ensure the side stays straight. I have another with 220 & 320 grit as well but often just go with a plam sander after 120 to remove marks.

    Eric
     
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  6. Luthi3rz

    Luthi3rz TDPRI Member

    Age:
    48
    74
    Jul 22, 2018
    AZ
    Thanks guys. Yeah I'm not to good yet with a spindle sander and I found out
    it's really easy to take off too much wood real quick.
     
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  7. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    I think everyone does this.

    And if you're like me you do it a couple times before you learn. :rolleyes:
     

  8. fenderchamp

    fenderchamp Tele-Holic

    833
    Jun 17, 2008
    omaha
    How do you ensure that you didn't end up with high spots or low spots along the top of the fretboard when working on the radius with a spindle sander?
     

  9. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    I was using the much longer belt sanderish attachment that comes with the ROSS. It covers a bit more than half the length of the fretboard. I think even a 2" spindle would be impossible.

    I basically did the radius the same way gibson used to carve necks on belt sanders.



    It's not ideal for this job... but I worked for this project.

    I need to give in and build a proper fretboard radiusing jig.
     

  10. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    I can't confirm that Gibson sanded necks like that, but I know I've seen them do necks like this:


     

  11. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    The guy in the video is doing the same thing on a flat belt sander. It's not a deadhead like the one in the video you posted, which is the more accurate representation of what Gibson did (as far as I know which is 4th hand info at best).

    But in my mind any variation of "carved the profile on a belt sander" is reasonably close to "the way gibson did it."

    :)
     

  12. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    di


    The dead head sander doesn't sand the middle twice as much as the ends. :) While I think any method of material that works is the way to go, I can bet you'll see irregularities that will need to be sanded out after the process using one contact point of a drum...just my 2 cents. If you think carving a neck is tedious, wait until you try to sand out the dips ;-).
     
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  13. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    It was time to slot for fretboard...

    Awhile ago I had bought a tiny router bit to do fret slots with. the idea is it would help me avoid buying a table saw for awhile.

    I did this on the pine an cedar caster and it worked reasonably well. But not perfect.

    I'd used a speed square and clamps to line up the cuts. And it was a major PITA.

    This time I decided we'd build a jig to hold the fretboard and the router.

    IMG_3103.jpg IMG_3091.jpg IMG_3094.jpg IMG_3096.jpg IMG_3097.jpg IMG_3101.jpg IMG_3102.jpg
     

  14. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    Here I am cutting the fret slots and the nut slot...

    it seemed like it worked pretty well.. but the reality is that this whole concept was a failure.

    The slots weren't deep enough and when I went back to deepen them I broke the itty bitty bit. Goodbye $30...

    The next set of pictures was taken when I still though this process was going well.

    IMG_3106.jpg IMG_3108.jpg IMG_3109.jpg IMG_3112.jpg IMG_3113.jpg IMG_3115.jpg IMG_3116.jpg IMG_3120.jpg IMG_3122.jpg
     

  15. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    Up next came fixing the slots by hand then gluing on the fretboard.

    After that I trimmed it flush to the neck... It's worth mentioning that black palm splinters like crazy.

    I easily could have lost the whole project while I was trimming the fretboard. But I ended up only having to deal with a little blow out.

    I fixed that with super glue. But stupidly hit it with kicker.

    You should know, like I did and should have though of, that kicker turns CA glue white. That means I wasn't able to hide the fix completely.

    IMG_3152.jpg IMG_3129.jpg IMG_3137.jpg IMG_3138.jpg IMG_3149.jpg IMG_3150.jpg IMG_3151.jpg
     

  16. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    Up next I blended the transition into the headstock on the ROSS.

    This headstock ended up way too thin...

    IMG_3154.jpg IMG_3157.jpg IMG_3158.jpg IMG_3159.jpg
     

  17. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    Next it was time to cut a test fit neck pocket then route the real deal.

    IMG_3163.jpg IMG_3164.jpg IMG_3165.jpg IMG_3166.jpg IMG_3167.jpg IMG_3168.jpg IMG_3169.jpg IMG_3171.jpg
     
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  18. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    Up next came fretting.

    I used the ROSS to trim the tangs and shape the fret ends before actually fretting them. This process lets me get a beautiful bull nose on the fret and ensure the tang will never pop out of the edge of the board. My technique isn't perfect but I'm really happy with how it's coming along. And I way prefer this to doing all the filing afterwards.

    If you're curious about what this looks like when it's executed perfectly... I got the idea from looking at Milimetric Instruments. I'm not totally sure he's doing it this way. But it looks it to me.

    IMG_3161.jpg IMG_3162.jpg IMG_3176.jpg IMG_3177.jpg IMG_3179.jpg IMG_3180.jpg IMG_3183.jpg IMG_3184.jpg IMG_3185.jpg IMG_3187.jpg
     

  19. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    Up next came thicknessing.

    The astute observer will notice that the neck ended up with a reverse taper... That wasn't intentional. Darn.

    IMG_3198.jpg IMG_3202.jpg IMG_3190.jpg IMG_3191.jpg IMG_3194.jpg IMG_3195.jpg IMG_3196.jpg IMG_3197.jpg
     

  20. PingGuo

    PingGuo Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

    608
    May 19, 2014
    North FL
    After that came calamity...

    It turns out You can't use gibson style truss rods in fender style necks. Damn Damn Damn.

    I poked a hole in the cavity that I made under the truss rod nut to allow wrench access because I bought the wrong style of truss rods and tried to use them anyway.

    That marks the end of this neck. The next one will be better. But first I need to take a detour and make some jigs. I'll start another thread for the jig making.

    I just got a new rod in the mail and will be starting on a new neck after the jig making session is complete.

    IMG_3215.jpg IMG_3210.jpg IMG_3211.jpg IMG_3212.jpg IMG_3213.jpg IMG_3214.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018

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