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Old March 7th, 2007, 08:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Any Luck with those TDPRI waterslides?

Mine broke into about 4 pieces when I tried to slide it off the paper. I am going to chalk it up to being a klutz. Too bad, I had just completed my first partscaster. It started life as a 1998 MIM 50s classic. The mods:

1. USA CG 25" conversion neck, fatback with 1" taper, 1 23/32 nut, rosewood board, strat peghead.

2. USA brass bridge.

3. Vintage Vibe Charlie Christian pickup.

4. Locking tuners.

5. Thomastik Infeld flatwound 12s.

Comes in at 9 pounds. Plays and sounds great. *Love* the neck. CC pickup is loud and clean.

Pickguard and bridge were changed before I bought the guitar.
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Old March 7th, 2007, 08:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't know anything about the quality of those decals but this is how I apply a decal. After soaking it in warm water, I apply water to the headstock and lay the decal with backing in the location I want it. Then I carefully slide the paper backing from underneath the decal while holding the decal in position. The decal doesn't actually move much. Slight movement of the decal is possible. Once in its final position, I blot it with a tissue.
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Old March 7th, 2007, 09:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds like a killer jazz tele! Never heard of the Charlie Christian pup. But TI 12s flatwound is what I use when i want that Bickert/Ted Green sound. Looks like an awesome guitar.
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Old March 7th, 2007, 10:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have not used these decals so I can not speak for the quality; however, The Fender ones I have used have been very tricky and easy to destroy if you don't have a soft touch.

But one day I was looking at a tele I built and suddenly wondered why I wanted to put someones name on something I built... go figure.
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Old March 7th, 2007, 11:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwells393 View Post
I don't know anything about the quality of those decals but this is how I apply a decal. After soaking it in warm water, I apply water to the headstock and lay the decal with backing in the location I want it. Then I carefully slide the paper backing from underneath the decal while holding the decal in position. The decal doesn't actually move much. Slight movement of the decal is possible. Once in its final position, I blot it with a tissue.
+1 on the above !
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Old March 8th, 2007, 09:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It sounds great, and was a fun experiment, but I think I am going to switch to a noiseless pup in the neck. The decal thing was clearly my fault; I need to stay away from precision work ...
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Old March 8th, 2007, 09:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would add two things to the above...

I have these decals and they are very thin but also very nice. OBTW; Mine arrived in fine condition. (1) Put one drop of dishwashing soap in the water. It has no effect on the decal after it dries and it lets it slip off the backing easier as well as permitting re-positioning. (2) I always spray a coat or two of clear sealer over this variety decal before I even cut it out. It really helps hold it together during the birthing process!
Good luck! or you can ship it to me and I will put it on and nitro over it for ya!
Rob (the other Rob/Tele12 Man)
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Old March 8th, 2007, 10:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Some advice from the company that makes the decals:

Quote:
To thicken the decal film you can use Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Apply using a soft brush; let dry for 20 minutes. It is also beneficial to apply liquid decal film if your decals have been sitting for more than 6 months after receiving them.

IMPORTANT: Liquid decal film will also protect the printed ink from scratches and some chemical reactions from clear coats.
Microscale Liquid Decal Film (find it at hobby stores) can be bought online at: http://www.bare-metal.com/decals/microscale_1.html

The choices in making decals are THICK and thin. THICK is easier to apply but looks bad on the headstock. Thin is trickier, that's for sure. Get some decal film and you'll have more luck.

Paul Green
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