Respray after acetone rag accident

FrankB · December 8th, 2006, 11:08 AM

ONe of my employees went to toss a rag with acetone on it into the metal bin and missed, overshooting the bin and with marksman precision tagged the front of the tele I built this previous march 2006. So I had to remove the finish from the front of the guitar and re-shoot it. So, I taped the sides and wiped on more acetone removing the old finish, no big deal, shot some clear coats onto the body then re-did the burst then shot on some more clear coats. Keeping it nice and thin as usual. I like this burst better it's a bit tighter with more color uniformity.The center will yellow and darken over time making it look uniquely nice. I like the way lacquer ages over black.
I buffed it out with #7 compound the a soft cotton pad, with nothing on it because the finish is thin. This is not one of my better bursts but I like the contrast of the black to natural.

jwells393 · December 8th, 2006, 11:27 AM

Question: When you wiped the front with acetone, did you take it back to bare wood? I guess you'd have to. Otherwise you'd have a sticky mess. Did you have to do any sanding after the acetone wipe-down?

BTW ......... Good job !

FrankB · December 8th, 2006, 11:44 AM

yeah, took it down to bare wood, minimal sanding with 600, (dry) blew it off, tacked with naptha, and shot it out back behind my bicycle shop. in a make shift bike box spray booth.
Laquer is so easy to work with, I use nothing else. If someone wants poly, I don't do the build. If anythin gets in the finish when you are spraying it;s easy to repair. the whole re-do took maybe 3 hours tops. then I let ot sit for a few days, then did the minimal buffing.

FrankB · December 8th, 2006, 11:53 AM

If someone wanted this color and wanted it to look not relic's but aged ( yellowed or ambered) the process would be this.
Clear coat the body with clear lacquer. Just enough coats to give a base, that if you had to sand it smooth you could.
THen buy neck amber from re-ranch or mix your own to suit your taste, and spray maybe 1 or 2 coats just to give it some color, not make it yellow or orange...
then do the black burst, clear that with clear lacquer. Then do the amber again until you get a color you like. The match the neck to the center of the body where there is no black so it all looks the same age so to speak. then clear acot avarything again including the neck.
Keeping in mind that you want to use as little finish as possible, do not lay it on thick. But you can, because as the lacquer cures it shrinks considerably because what you are spraying is mostky solvents to carry the lacquer to where you want to lay it down. so going what looks like will be heavy is still less than paper thin, just be mindful of the weight of the coat to avoid runs. this will give a natural few years old look without making it look like a custom shop relic' if you are not into them, then play it and it will break in according to how you pay it.
My issue with Relics is they do not represent how the player would have worn the guitar away, each one is specific to the player, it;s just a peeve of mine, I'm not ranting or trying not to rant, hahaa...

December 8th, 2006, 11:27 AM	#2 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 64 Posts: 12,245 101 Photos	Question: When you wiped the front with acetone, did you take it back to bare wood? I guess you'd have to. Otherwise you'd have a sticky mess. Did you have to do any sanding after the acetone wipe-down? BTW ......... Good job ! __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras.

December 8th, 2006, 11:44 AM	#3 (permalink)
FrankB Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Havertown, PA. U.S.A. Posts: 742	yeah, took it down to bare wood, minimal sanding with 600, (dry) blew it off, tacked with naptha, and shot it out back behind my bicycle shop. in a make shift bike box spray booth. Laquer is so easy to work with, I use nothing else. If someone wants poly, I don't do the build. If anythin gets in the finish when you are spraying it;s easy to repair. the whole re-do took maybe 3 hours tops. then I let ot sit for a few days, then did the minimal buffing.

December 8th, 2006, 11:53 AM	#4 (permalink)
FrankB Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Havertown, PA. U.S.A. Posts: 742	If someone wanted this color and wanted it to look not relic's but aged ( yellowed or ambered) the process would be this. Clear coat the body with clear lacquer. Just enough coats to give a base, that if you had to sand it smooth you could. THen buy neck amber from re-ranch or mix your own to suit your taste, and spray maybe 1 or 2 coats just to give it some color, not make it yellow or orange... then do the black burst, clear that with clear lacquer. Then do the amber again until you get a color you like. The match the neck to the center of the body where there is no black so it all looks the same age so to speak. then clear acot avarything again including the neck. Keeping in mind that you want to use as little finish as possible, do not lay it on thick. But you can, because as the lacquer cures it shrinks considerably because what you are spraying is mostky solvents to carry the lacquer to where you want to lay it down. so going what looks like will be heavy is still less than paper thin, just be mindful of the weight of the coat to avoid runs. this will give a natural few years old look without making it look like a custom shop relic' if you are not into them, then play it and it will break in according to how you pay it. My issue with Relics is they do not represent how the player would have worn the guitar away, each one is specific to the player, it;s just a peeve of mine, I'm not ranting or trying not to rant, hahaa...