Bridge & neck radius preference?

Tedecaster · January 18th, 2006, 03:32 PM

Hi, I'm gathering parts for a Tele project and have no specific model/year in mind other than a butterscotch finish. Bridges seem to run the gamut in both price & style. Any concensus? I'm also curious about fingerboard radius. I play more bass than guitar and haven't played enough of them to have an opinion. Seems like alot or TDPRI 'ers have the vintage '50's style necks. Any thoughts?

Mike Rice · January 18th, 2006, 03:53 PM

You need to get out and play as many of the various Teles as you possibly can. I'd suggest Guitar Center. There's no place near me that carries the selection they do. You'll be able to sampe a vintage 7.25" neck radius against the modern 9.5" and even some models with a 12" radius. You'll be able to play guitars with deep chunky necks with U or V shapes, through the moderate C shapes of the 60s, to todays flat oval. You'll play rosewood and maple boards, vintage to medium jumbo frets, and check out different neck finishes.

While you're at it also take note of 3 vs 6 saddle and different bridge materials. Most folks around here do tend to favor 3 brass saddles, often compensated. Listen to the pickups your're trying as well just to determine what tonal properties you hold most dear. Once you know that you can publish that and get bombarded with suggestions for pickups.

In my opinion this exercise is the only way you're going to make a guitar with any value to yourself.

Scott S · January 18th, 2006, 08:46 PM

My preference is for vintage specs all around: fat neck with a 7.25" radius, vintage pickups and 3-saddle bridge.

A nice compromise is the 7.25"-9.5" compound radius. Comfy for chording, less fretting out on bends.

eryque · January 18th, 2006, 10:04 PM

What Mikey says. Play as many different kinds as you can.

Little differences can make a HUGE difference in the way a neck feels. For a while I was really digging my JD neck, which has a thick soft V profile, small frets, and the 7.25" radius. I played with a really high action so there were no problems fretting out when bending, but the high action caused all sorts of tuning problems. Now I've got an equally thick neck with huge frets and a 7.25-9.5" compound radius and play with a lower action (allowed by the bigger frets), and in tune. It sure feels a lot different and will take some getting used to, but I'm digging it so far.

I'm not convinced that the 7.25" radius near the nut actually feels much different for chording than a 9.5" radius. Everyone says it's more comfortable, but I honestly don't notice much difference.

niterail · January 18th, 2006, 11:46 PM

i have always liked the 7.25 radius and 3 saddle bridge. Also, i prefer (after years of playing both huge and small frets) the small frets. with more of your finger touching the fretboard on small frets, the tone becomes warmer to my ear.

some people find it harder to bend on a 7.25 radius, but i say that is hogwash. to them i say, go practice! I prefer 11's and high action on my nocaster, and it intonates pretty well with that 3 saddle bridge.

to each his own, but whoever played a fender until the 80s was playing a tele with those specs.

niterail · January 18th, 2006, 11:48 PM

i have heard (and i can hear a difference...)

that a 3 saddle has more sustain than a 6 saddle, because when the force of two strings (perhaps 100-200 lbs of pressure) is holding down the saddle, instead of just one, (50-100 lbs) the sustain and vibration transfer from saddle to bridge, and then to the wood, is purer.

call me crazy. it may play out of tune, but damn is it a better sound.

January 19th, 2006, 10:57 AM

I have owned 7.25, 9.5, and 12's on my telecasters. I can say without reservation a 12" radius board is the epitome of total playability for me.

You hear a lot of people say things about how a 7.25 is so nice for chording down at the nut etc etc. The question is: WHO NEEDS CHORDS AT THE NUT TO BE THAT MUCH EASIER THAN THEY ALREADY ARE?

Think about this, acoustic guitar have FLAT Fretboards, and those are used for a chords, a lot.

What I found I need was speed from the low action that a 12" board provides throughout the length of the neck without feeling too flat.

January 18th, 2006, 03:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
Tedecaster Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Greensboro, Vermont Posts: 1,018 26 Photos	Bridge & neck radius preference? Hi, I'm gathering parts for a Tele project and have no specific model/year in mind other than a butterscotch finish. Bridges seem to run the gamut in both price & style. Any concensus? I'm also curious about fingerboard radius. I play more bass than guitar and haven't played enough of them to have an opinion. Seems like alot or TDPRI 'ers have the vintage '50's style necks. Any thoughts?

January 18th, 2006, 03:53 PM	#2 (permalink)
Mike Rice Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Hudson Valley Age: 48 Posts: 2,230 3 Photos	One primary thought You need to get out and play as many of the various Teles as you possibly can. I'd suggest Guitar Center. There's no place near me that carries the selection they do. You'll be able to sampe a vintage 7.25" neck radius against the modern 9.5" and even some models with a 12" radius. You'll be able to play guitars with deep chunky necks with U or V shapes, through the moderate C shapes of the 60s, to todays flat oval. You'll play rosewood and maple boards, vintage to medium jumbo frets, and check out different neck finishes. While you're at it also take note of 3 vs 6 saddle and different bridge materials. Most folks around here do tend to favor 3 brass saddles, often compensated. Listen to the pickups your're trying as well just to determine what tonal properties you hold most dear. Once you know that you can publish that and get bombarded with suggestions for pickups. In my opinion this exercise is the only way you're going to make a guitar with any value to yourself. __________________ Sure I like country music and I like mandolins, but right now I need a Telecaster through a Vibrolux turned up to 10...John Hiatt

January 18th, 2006, 10:04 PM	#4 (permalink)
eryque Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: albany, ny [not chicago] Posts: 7,127 44 Photos	What Mikey says. Play as many different kinds as you can. Little differences can make a HUGE difference in the way a neck feels. For a while I was really digging my JD neck, which has a thick soft V profile, small frets, and the 7.25" radius. I played with a really high action so there were no problems fretting out when bending, but the high action caused all sorts of tuning problems. Now I've got an equally thick neck with huge frets and a 7.25-9.5" compound radius and play with a lower action (allowed by the bigger frets), and in tune. It sure feels a lot different and will take some getting used to, but I'm digging it so far. I'm not convinced that the 7.25" radius near the nut actually feels much different for chording than a 9.5" radius. Everyone says it's more comfortable, but I honestly don't notice much difference. __________________ my blog: eryque.blogspot.com Updated 9.17.08! Subscribe_____________________

January 18th, 2006, 11:46 PM	#5 (permalink)
niterail Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 138	mee too i have always liked the 7.25 radius and 3 saddle bridge. Also, i prefer (after years of playing both huge and small frets) the small frets. with more of your finger touching the fretboard on small frets, the tone becomes warmer to my ear. some people find it harder to bend on a 7.25 radius, but i say that is hogwash. to them i say, go practice! I prefer 11's and high action on my nocaster, and it intonates pretty well with that 3 saddle bridge. to each his own, but whoever played a fender until the 80s was playing a tele with those specs. __________________ www.niterail.com The new EP "Back and Forth" is available now!

January 18th, 2006, 11:48 PM	#6 (permalink)
niterail Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 138	another point... i have heard (and i can hear a difference...) that a 3 saddle has more sustain than a 6 saddle, because when the force of two strings (perhaps 100-200 lbs of pressure) is holding down the saddle, instead of just one, (50-100 lbs) the sustain and vibration transfer from saddle to bridge, and then to the wood, is purer. call me crazy. it may play out of tune, but damn is it a better sound. __________________ www.niterail.com The new EP "Back and Forth" is available now!

January 18th, 2006, 08:46 PM	#3 (permalink)
Scott S Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: SW CR IA US NA PE Age: 28 Posts: 1,732	My preference is for vintage specs all around: fat neck with a 7.25" radius, vintage pickups and 3-saddle bridge. A nice compromise is the 7.25"-9.5" compound radius. Comfy for chording, less fretting out on bends.

January 19th, 2006, 10:57 AM	#7 (permalink)
ttrog2000 Guest Posts: n/a	12" Radius ...end of story I have owned 7.25, 9.5, and 12's on my telecasters. I can say without reservation a 12" radius board is the epitome of total playability for me. You hear a lot of people say things about how a 7.25 is so nice for chording down at the nut etc etc. The question is: WHO NEEDS CHORDS AT THE NUT TO BE THAT MUCH EASIER THAN THEY ALREADY ARE? Think about this, acoustic guitar have FLAT Fretboards, and those are used for a chords, a lot. What I found I need was speed from the low action that a 12" board provides throughout the length of the neck without feeling too flat.