50's Classic Tele (MIM) question

Ignatius · October 19th, 2005, 03:24 PM

Just picked up a white one for a really nice price (seller advertised it as a MIM Standard, so I moved fast!).

I cleaned it up, gave it new strings and a setup, and it plays really nicely. Compared to my '94 52RI, it's a full pound lighter, neck feels every bit as nice, and I'm pretty sure the body is one piece (ash). It does have a slightly different timbre than the 52RI, but that may be because of the steel saddles (50's classic) vs. the brass saddles (52RI). Paid just over three bills for it - probably the nicest guitar I'll ever see for that price!

Anyway, I do have a question and I'm wondering if this is common to all 50's Classics. In order to adjust the E/A saddle so that the action is acceptable, I had to adjust the height adjustment screw such that the top of the screw protrudes WAY above the saddle. Looks like it could be a real palm ripper if I hit it just so (I play hybrid style and mute with my palm at times). What can I do to remedy this? Can I get a shorter screw somewhere? Interestingly enough, my 52RI isn't like this. What gives?

clayfeat · October 19th, 2005, 03:37 PM

You bet you can get shorter screws. Any guitar shop could fix you up there and probably for free. The 50's classic has been on my wishlist for quite some time now. You are a lucky man to pick one up for that price. Enjoy. 8)

maestrovert · October 19th, 2005, 03:52 PM

my personal remedy is:
measure from the surface of the bridge plate to the top of the saddle while the strings are in place, and the action is set as you prefer...
then simply remove the screw and trim it to that length {taking care NOT to trim the adjustment side of the screw....i finish it up by rounding the trimmed end with a small file...

result ? smooth palm muting surfaces !

yegbert · October 19th, 2005, 03:55 PM

You can shorten them, Terry Downs (tdowns) has a good article showing how here.

T Prior · October 19th, 2005, 05:36 PM

I just picked up a brand new '99 sunburst from a guy in Chicago for $360...it is my second one.

The screws are an easy fix..

buy em' , which is the easiest way..or just get out the old 6" Grinder and wire wheel.

Knock off 1/4 inch and remove the burrs with the wire brush. I did this to the first one, same issue that you are having. Move the end of the scew into the grinder wheel very slowly..very slowly...hold it with a vise grips or something like it, do not damage the threads. You can protect the threads by putting several small nuts on the screw before grinding.

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES !! PLEASE !!!

Or do it like Terry's method above, just be careful, don't take some of your finger off.

Before you re-assemble just make sure they are all about the same length or so...

I did just replace the steel saddles on the new one with threaded brass saddles that I bought who knows when off of EBay, those came with shorter scews which I used.

very fine guitar, I think one of the best Tele bargains on the planet, even at full price...

by the way, most are 3 piece bodies, not 1 piece.

good luck

happy twanging
t

sudancat · October 19th, 2005, 05:52 PM

take 1 out,carry it to your local Hdwe store,get several of the same size just different lengths and get extras for when you do this again.I like the allen heads better than the slotted screws, they will refer to these at the Hdwe store as set screws and you will have a couple of dollars invested when your through

ye olde fretmonkey · October 19th, 2005, 06:16 PM

That's really, really a good deal.

Mark Davis · October 19th, 2005, 07:37 PM

Great guitar for a great price.

Not a 1 piece body tho more like 3 pieces they hide the seams really good.

The 50's and 60's Classics are my fav Teles.

sudancat · October 19th, 2005, 07:49 PM

What kind of neck contour and radius does the 50s have??

Ignatius · October 19th, 2005, 09:03 PM

Thanks for the replies!

I think I'll go the "buy" route for the shorter screws, great to know they can be gotten.

I've been looking really really close and I sure don't see any seams in this thing. I can't imagine it could possibly be a one piece body for this price, but there is a grain pattern that starts near the left side of the lower bout, sweeps around under the bridge, and ends on the right side and I cannot for the life of me see where it is interrupted. But heck, if this thing were ten pieces I'd still be very happy with it.

What strikes me is how much lighter it is than my 52RI. I'm hard pressed to see any appreciable differences between these two instruments. Let me qualify that by excluding pickups that would come stock - my 52RI has Bardens in it, and I have a custom Duff sitting here that I'll be putting into the MIM. One thing I'm not blown away by is the neck pickup in the 50's Classic - I still neeed to play with the height, but it sounds a bit too muddy and woofy on the low end.

Mark Davis · October 19th, 2005, 10:42 PM

Here is a 50's Classic stripped of most of its finish.

MY 1st 50's Classic was 6.5 lbs my 2nd one was 7.5 my new 50's Classic Esquire is 6.3 lbs my 1988 52ri was 9.1 lbs.

BrianF · October 20th, 2005, 12:21 AM

interesting Mark...is it refinished now? If so, what color etc?

Ignatius · October 20th, 2005, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clayfeat

You bet you can get shorter screws.

Can anyone recommend an online resource for these? I've checked guitarpartsresource.com and stewmac.com and I don't see them in either place.

yegbert · October 20th, 2005, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ignatius

Quote:

Originally Posted by clayfeat

You bet you can get shorter screws.

Can anyone recommend an online resource for these? I've checked guitarpartsresource.com and stewmac.com and I don't see them in either place.

I haven't tried them, but Callaham has them.

Quote:

We have a large stock of height adjustment screws in 5/16 and 3/8 length that can be bought individually. Fender guitars take the #6 screw. Some G&L guitars take the #4 screw. If you don't know whether you guitar takes the #4 or the #6 screw, measure your screw diameter so size can be determined.

Height Adjustment Screws for Tele saddles $0.23¢ #6-32 5/16
(stainless steel only, sold individually. $0.23¢ #6-32 3/8
If you don't know what size you have, $0.23¢ #4-40 5/16
measure your screw diameter so size can be determined.) $0.23¢ #4-40 3/8

$4.50 shipping fee for $55 and under order total.

Mark Davis · October 20th, 2005, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianF

interesting Mark...is it refinished now? If so, what color etc?

THat was owned by another user here not me.

October 19th, 2005, 03:24 PM	#1 (permalink)
Ignatius Tele-Holic Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 742 1 Photos	50's Classic Tele (MIM) question Just picked up a white one for a really nice price (seller advertised it as a MIM Standard, so I moved fast!). I cleaned it up, gave it new strings and a setup, and it plays really nicely. Compared to my '94 52RI, it's a full pound lighter, neck feels every bit as nice, and I'm pretty sure the body is one piece (ash). It does have a slightly different timbre than the 52RI, but that may be because of the steel saddles (50's classic) vs. the brass saddles (52RI). Paid just over three bills for it - probably the nicest guitar I'll ever see for that price! Anyway, I do have a question and I'm wondering if this is common to all 50's Classics. In order to adjust the E/A saddle so that the action is acceptable, I had to adjust the height adjustment screw such that the top of the screw protrudes WAY above the saddle. Looks like it could be a real palm ripper if I hit it just so (I play hybrid style and mute with my palm at times). What can I do to remedy this? Can I get a shorter screw somewhere? Interestingly enough, my 52RI isn't like this. What gives?

October 19th, 2005, 03:52 PM	#3 (permalink)
maestrovert Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: West Branch Mi. Posts: 6,182	my personal remedy is: measure from the surface of the bridge plate to the top of the saddle while the strings are in place, and the action is set as you prefer... then simply remove the screw and trim it to that length {taking care NOT to trim the adjustment side of the screw....i finish it up by rounding the trimmed end with a small file... result ? smooth palm muting surfaces ! __________________ Sing the Song Bro' Play on Drummer www.godonthe.net

October 19th, 2005, 03:55 PM	#4 (permalink)
yegbert Friend of Leo's Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Clinton, Maryland (US) Age: 54 Posts: 4,651 77 Photos	cut them You can shorten them, Terry Downs (tdowns) has a good article showing how here.

October 19th, 2005, 05:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
T Prior Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 871	great axes.. I just picked up a brand new '99 sunburst from a guy in Chicago for $360...it is my second one. The screws are an easy fix.. buy em' , which is the easiest way..or just get out the old 6" Grinder and wire wheel. Knock off 1/4 inch and remove the burrs with the wire brush. I did this to the first one, same issue that you are having. Move the end of the scew into the grinder wheel very slowly..very slowly...hold it with a vise grips or something like it, do not damage the threads. You can protect the threads by putting several small nuts on the screw before grinding. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES !! PLEASE !!! Or do it like Terry's method above, just be careful, don't take some of your finger off. Before you re-assemble just make sure they are all about the same length or so... I did just replace the steel saddles on the new one with threaded brass saddles that I bought who knows when off of EBay, those came with shorter scews which I used. very fine guitar, I think one of the best Tele bargains on the planet, even at full price... by the way, most are 3 piece bodies, not 1 piece. good luck happy twanging t

October 19th, 2005, 06:16 PM	#7 (permalink)
ye olde fretmonkey Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Austin Posts: 3,340	$3 bills! That's really, really a good deal. __________________ Just 'cause that's the way things are, that never did make it right.

October 19th, 2005, 03:37 PM	#2 (permalink)
clayfeat Tele-Holic Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: bloomington, in Posts: 576	You bet you can get shorter screws. Any guitar shop could fix you up there and probably for free. The 50's classic has been on my wishlist for quite some time now. You are a lucky man to pick one up for that price. Enjoy. 8)

October 19th, 2005, 05:52 PM	#6 (permalink)
sudancat Tele-Holic Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: North Carolina Posts: 700 12 Photos	take 1 out,carry it to your local Hdwe store,get several of the same size just different lengths and get extras for when you do this again.I like the allen heads better than the slotted screws, they will refer to these at the Hdwe store as set screws and you will have a couple of dollars invested when your through

October 19th, 2005, 07:37 PM	#8 (permalink)
Mark Davis Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Bakersfield Ca. Age: 58 Posts: 12,468	Great guitar for a great price. Not a 1 piece body tho more like 3 pieces they hide the seams really good. The 50's and 60's Classics are my fav Teles. __________________ I'm so blind my seeing eye dog needs glasses.

October 19th, 2005, 07:49 PM	#9 (permalink)
sudancat Tele-Holic Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: North Carolina Posts: 700 12 Photos	What kind of neck contour and radius does the 50s have??

October 19th, 2005, 09:03 PM	#10 (permalink)
Ignatius Tele-Holic Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 742 1 Photos	Thanks for the replies! I think I'll go the "buy" route for the shorter screws, great to know they can be gotten. I've been looking really really close and I sure don't see any seams in this thing. I can't imagine it could possibly be a one piece body for this price, but there is a grain pattern that starts near the left side of the lower bout, sweeps around under the bridge, and ends on the right side and I cannot for the life of me see where it is interrupted. But heck, if this thing were ten pieces I'd still be very happy with it. What strikes me is how much lighter it is than my 52RI. I'm hard pressed to see any appreciable differences between these two instruments. Let me qualify that by excluding pickups that would come stock - my 52RI has Bardens in it, and I have a custom Duff sitting here that I'll be putting into the MIM. One thing I'm not blown away by is the neck pickup in the 50's Classic - I still neeed to play with the height, but it sounds a bit too muddy and woofy on the low end.

October 19th, 2005, 10:42 PM	#11 (permalink)
Mark Davis Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Bakersfield Ca. Age: 58 Posts: 12,468	Here is a 50's Classic stripped of most of its finish. MY 1st 50's Classic was 6.5 lbs my 2nd one was 7.5 my new 50's Classic Esquire is 6.3 lbs my 1988 52ri was 9.1 lbs. __________________ I'm so blind my seeing eye dog needs glasses.

October 20th, 2005, 12:21 AM	#12 (permalink)
BrianF Friend of Leo's Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Carlsbad, Ca Posts: 2,133 7 Photos	stripped MIM interesting Mark...is it refinished now? If so, what color etc?