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Old December 21st, 2012, 12:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Skunk-stripe or no skunk-stripe?

Hey builders. When you have the option, do you go skunkstripe, or no skunk stripe? I personally like the stripe. But which do you feel is more authentic, or gives the guitar more character?

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Old December 21st, 2012, 12:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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On a one-piece maple neck, a skunk stripe is pretty much mandatory (how else are you going to fit the truss rod?), but with a neck with a separate fingerboard it is obviously optional.

I prefer it only when needed.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 01:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I figured the neck without stripe would be more appealing, but I'm repurposing a lot of strat necks right now, and a lot of them have the stripe.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 02:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If it's not needed, I don't want it.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 03:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I agree , OTOH , I find the skunk stripe to be one of the most pleasant details of the vintage design....
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Old December 21st, 2012, 03:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THRASHOCASTER View Post
Hey builders. When you have the option, do you go skunkstripe, or no skunk stripe? I personally like the stripe. But which do you feel is more authentic, or gives the guitar more character?
Authentic? Maybe to one era. But that's it. My mid 60s reissues have always been skunk stripeless.

I don't like the skunk stripe.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 03:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Skunk stripes are necessity for a one-piece neck with a truss rod. I don't think I've ever seen a skunk stripe added to a neck that didn't require it.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 05:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Skunk stripes are necessity for a one-piece neck with a truss rod. I don't think I've ever seen a skunk stripe added to a neck that didn't require it.
Many MIA Teles and Strats with rosewood fingerboards also have skunk stripes. I think they did it simply to make production easier.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 05:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yup I haver several Rosewood topped strats with the skunk stripe. Even a MIK Bullet strat. Maple top though, come to think of it. I payed a buck for it. No lie. A dollar.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 06:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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At the origin, the one piece mapple neck was one of the big differences Fender brought to guitar industry. It had a skunk stripe since it had a truss rod. Rosewood fingerboard came in 59 for the tele, and Fender used to set the truss rod by the top, so skunk stripe disappeared (and so the dark wood "drop" on the head stock). Same technics with the mapple fretboard, they're mapple on mapple, sometimes hard to see. Then in 1969, the one piece neck came back, with the skunk stripe, but even the rosewood board were done with a skunk stripe on the back. In those times, Fender only used one technics at a time to set the truss rod. So before being a question of character, it's a question of technics, one piece mapple, no choice, rosewood board, choice. And second it's a question of period correct if you do a reissue. Rosewood with skunk stripe (with unnecesary skunk stripe I would say) is the particularity of what's considered being the worth period for Fender : the 70's. "Noble" eras have a skunk stripe only when it's necessary. Fuel for thoughts about style.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 06:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Skunk stripes are necessity for a one-piece neck with a truss rod. I don't think I've ever seen a skunk stripe added to a neck that didn't require it.
My 2003 HWY1 had a RW fretboard and a skunkstripe.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 07:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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On a one-piece maple neck, a skunk stripe is pretty much mandatory (how else are you going to fit the truss rod?), but with a neck with a separate fingerboard it is obviously optional.

I prefer it only when needed.
+1.

I see no reason for a skunk stripe on other than a one-piece maple neck.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I love the skunk stripage

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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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would routing a TR groove in a neck blank take out any potential internal stress in the wood which "might" cause a twist later?.
. the glued in hardwood stripe acting as a stabilizer in the neck...

a bit of insurance for greener wood perhaps?...
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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would routing a TR groove in a neck blank take out any potential internal stress in the wood which "might" cause a twist later?.
. the glued in hardwood stripe acting as a stabilizer in the neck...

a bit of insurance for greener wood perhaps?...
It may release internal tensions and cause twisting and warpage.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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the reason I wondered that was I got a lefty neck a while back and it had a twist... RW top no skunk stripe..
it was replaced at no cost to me and I kept the old neck...

I wondered if I carefully made a TR groove... clamped the neck on a flat surface and glued in a stripe and let it sit like that for a good while to cure..

do you think it'd stay straight if I tried that?.. or would it be better to unglue the RW top to put on another neck build?...
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I would make a simple jig on a bench top to clamp it straight, and cover the neck with a heating pad and see if that corrects the twist.

In all reality, if wood has a tendency to warp, it will ussually always find a way to twist eventually.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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say if you clamped it flat on a metal jig...and had something like a bakers oven to heat it in..

how hot for how long would you think?.. for it to make any impact on the wood resins, glues, etc?..

has this ever been tried ?..
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
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say if you clamped it flat on a metal jig...and had something like a bakers oven to heat it in..

how hot for how long would you think?.. for it to make any impact on the wood resins, glues, etc?..

has this ever been tried ?..
I have used a heat lamp with a towel wrapped around the neck, and a heating pad. Never tried an oven. It would have to be low heat. To hot, and the neck with dry and crack.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 11:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Roasting maple necks is done at 400F for 30 minutes.
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