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Old May 23rd, 2005, 09:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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replacing a neck

I've got a lite ash tele, it plays and sounds great but I'm not happy with the neck. I've got alot of "me" into this guitar so starting over with a fresh one is not an option. Looking down from the headstock on the low side, first it goes from a reverse bow to a regular bow at about the 7th fret, kind of a subtle S. The high side is bowed through the whole side. This is all very subtle mind you but I've got some buzzing frets and I WANT A PERFECT NECK! When I first set it up, it took quite a few cranks for the truss rod to respond - if that means anything. Has anyone replaced a neck on one of these?
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 09:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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replacing that neck?

There is another option if you don't want to replace it.
Find a good Luthier. I don't mean a guitar tech although they could handle it if they have the exp. Anyway, if it is not too far gone, they can heat it up and straighten it back out. Of course you will need a back up axe while this repair is goin on 8)
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 11:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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80's US Bullet necks are pretty great, if you can find one. Mine is definetly my favorite neck I've ever played.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 12:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Allparts

Every AllParts neck I've had has been FANTASTIC. I've had the Fat neck, the Vee neck and the regular 60s style rosewood and I would highly recommend any of them. Rob D (fellow TDPRIer) fixed me up with a good price and a great nut on it.

You won't be disappointed!
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Old May 24th, 2005, 12:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Rob D Is

doing one for my 52 AVRI Tele. with a allparts fat neck. I can't wait to play it! .Rob's had LOTSA good feedback through examining the searches, and my personal experience with him is excellent thus far.

Brian
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Old May 24th, 2005, 11:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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something to try....

you might try this and see if it helps....
completely loosen or entirely remove the strings....
loosen the truss rod, if necessary remove the truss rod nut and lube it (just a hint of a drop --i use 3 in 1-- DO NOT OVERLUBE)
replace the nut but do not "tighten it" yet

be seated, standing the guitar up from between your feet, bracing it firmly...
grasp the neck just underneath the string nut/1st fret(note: NOT the headstock) and pull it back firmly into the back bow direction and then tighten the truss rod adjustment to where it's starting to get firm or "snug".......
you don't want to overtighten either.....

restring and tune normally....(i normally allow the guitar to "acclimatize" at least overnight at this point)

if necessary, adjust the rod 1/4 turn at a time, and allow the neck to settle awhile before making any further adjustment.....

hope it helps
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Old May 24th, 2005, 05:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hmmm... I don't know about that one, has it worked for you? I've never personally gone that deep into a setup to feel confident in trying that.You got anyone in your neighborhood who can do it? I'm right down 41.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 06:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Heya

Check your private messages....under the TDPRI link at the top of the page.....
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Old May 24th, 2005, 09:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When thinking neck, think tone . .

The neck make's a tele sound good (or not). If it's straight and feels good, fine, but if the tele doesn't sing, then that neck is worthless imho. Just thought you'd like to know. :)
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Old May 25th, 2005, 02:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yes

yes, i've successfully used this technique....it IS a legitimate technique too.....basically it allows the truss rod to "reset" (in a manner of speaking)....

You mentioned it took a couple of "cranks" to get it to respond ? 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn is all it takes normally, and you should always wait a bit for the wood to catch up....i don't think you did yourself any favor by cranking down on the truss rod....

Your description of your fingerboard after you "tightened" the rod leads me to believe that the overtight rod is compressing the neck instead of working in the plane of counteracting stringpull forces....

think of it this way: your rod is now squeezing the neck together, head to butt , you want the truss rod to work in the fore to aft plane......
the truss rod should "use" the string forces, and work in tandem with the stringpull, NOT fight to overcome it.

when you adjust the rod in the manner i've described, and with new strings brought to pitch, in essence you're starting from a back bowed position, which allows the neck to come straight with string tension and/or for minor rod adjustment to gradually bring the fingerboard "flat" or add "relief" ......

it's as easy to do as i've described.....
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