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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 113
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62 RI HELP String Breakage Problem (vintage 3 saddle bridge)
Okay, first of all, id like to say i did a search through the forum to try and find an answe to this problem, but there was nothing SPECIFICALLY on this type of 3-saddle bridge, so im sorry if any of you think this is tedious!
Okay, so i recently (well about 2 months ago) i changed the strings on my MIJ '62 to GHS 11s after having bought the guitar set up for 10s (i thought they were too spaghetti like for my style) and ive been having problems with string breakage. When it was set up with 10s, there was no problem - infact, i played it hard for roughly 1-2hrs a day for the first 2 months or so with no problems. But in the time ive changed to 11s, i break a string every week and its usually the 4th (D - 26), and im tearing my hair out singe i broke, changed and broke in under one day today!!! ![]() Its breaking at point number 3. My question is, what is causing this?! Ive been used tune-o-matic style bridges and the one on the MIM Standard tele previous to this guitar, so i dont know where exactly does it need to be strung - that is through the guide 1 or guide 2? Does this make a difference? Any other suggestions? Any will be greatly appreciated!! Cheers, Stu |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Milyucky, Whiskonsin
Posts: 2,171
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To see if there are any burrs, use a cotton swab and run it across the saddle.. If cotton sticks there is a burr.. then you can take a file or a dremel to get it off...
Hope it helps...
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"Everyone's got to be something... Me? I'm stupid... It's all I ever wanted to be... Shock me again!" |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 113
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cool, thanks. Ill give that a try.
I was just curious since its only happened since i changed strings - cos before that it didnt break. So it doesnt really matter which groove the string lies in? As in, does it matter that the string is comin out the hole and there is an angle in the string between the hole and the saddle?(if you understand that...) Thanks, Stu |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
the way string ball end to tuner post or at least very close. Try to do it. It may be side loading on the string. At least it will eliminate a variable if it doesn't correct the problem. The other comments on a burr are worth checking though also.
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"Somewhere between culture and agriculture" |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas
Age: 46
Posts: 3,893
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Quote:
__________________
Music is the language of God. |
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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Friend of Leo's
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compromise
Quote:
I'm eventually going to shorten my saddle height screws and then see if I can get the strings straight. I'm not having a problem with mine breaking, but maybe that's partly because of my playing style not being as hard as some. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 113
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haha Joe-Bob, thats a little thing called perspective! I can assure you that my strings arent at THAT much of an angle (my camera was just very close to the bridge, so it sort of had a fish-eye lens affect)!
There is maybe a 1mm difference from where the string exits the body and hits the saddle. I checked it out with the cotton swab trick and found a little burr almost exactly where arrow 2 is pointing (on the crest of the turn rather than in the pit), so im gonna try to find a file or something to get rid of it. This explains why ive only had a problem with the thicker strings (because the thinner ones just fell into the pit). Thanks everyone! Stu |
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