Another project update with pics (NTC)

[Kevin]

Here's another update on my project-in-progress. Previous updates can be found <A HREF = "http://www.tdpri.com/viewtopic.php?t=32868">HERE</a> and <A HREF ="http://www.tdpri.com/viewtopic.php?t=33081"> HERE</a>.

I got the bridge and drilled the mounting holes for it, as well as the string-through and ferrule holes. This is where I had my one screw-up, though. When I was drilling the channel for the bridge ground wire, the drill bit broke off inside the body. Rather than trying to dig it out, and doing more damage in the process, I simply plugged the hole with solvent-based filler and drilled a new hole. You can see the filler in the pic. I can live with it... The bridge, BTW, is a strat-type hardtail, but with narrower spacing, so it will line up with P-90 polepieces. I also drilled the neck-mounting holes; you'll notice that I drilled for recessed neck ferrules, so that I don't have to use a neck plate. One reason for this was simply aesthetics; I thought it would look "cleaner." The other reason is that regular neck bolts would be too short for this body, since it's 1/4" thicker than a Fender; recessing the holes and not using a plate allows me to use regular bolts, and not order special ones....

I also drilled the holes for the controls: two volumes, one tone, and a three-way toggle.

Next, I had to fill the grain of the mahogany. My process differs a bit from the process that Bill describes on ReRanch, so I'll go over mine here. The filler that I used for this body was Bartley's Light Oil-based grain filler. Don't let the name "Light" fool you; this stuff is quite dark and will stain the wood a dark brown if you allow it to.

Before I filled the grain, I sprayed two light coats of lacquer over the entire body -- before filling, sealing, or anything else. The lacquer will (and did) prevent the stain in the filler from coloring the field of the wood. The lacquer, though, does not seal the pores of the wood, so the filler will get into those and make them a bit darker as it fills them. If you want to stain the mahogany a bit darker, you can leave this step out, but I wanted to keep the mahogany its natural color. After the lacquer dried (the next day) I carefully masked the binding and the top of the body. I then applied the filler to the back and sides of the body using my fingers to work it into the grain. I let it dry about 10 minutes and then carefully scraped away the excess filler with a razor blade, going at about a 45 degree angle to the grain. So far, I'm right with Bill's schedule, BTW....

Immediately after doing that, though, I took a piece of burlap and buffed away most of the remaining excess from the body before it fully hardened. I let that dry for six hours and then buffed again with a burlap cloth that had been dampened with mineral spirits. The burlap won't get into the grain of the wood and disturb the filler in the pores. After drying, I sanded the body with 240 and 320 grit sanding sponges. The grain was well filled and the field of the wood maintained its original color.

Next, I sprayed four light coats of nitro sealer, let them dry overnight, and sanded with 320 grit. I was ready for tinting.

While I was making the body, I experimented with several dyes -- both water-based and solvent-based. I tried yellow, brown, and even mixed a few combinations. I finally decided that I could best get the color I wanted using Bill's Butterscotch/Burst tinted lacquer, so I decided to tint the maple with that. I masked off the binding, the sides, and the back of the body and sprayed a light coat; it looked nice. When I took the masking off, though, I decided that the top was too orange in comparison to the back and sides. Bummer...

So, I sanded back the tint coat -- and most of the sealer on the top, as well. I sprayed a couple of more coats of sealer, sanded, and decided to try something else.

While working on the body during the sealer stages, I'd thought that it looked pretty good with a natural finish on the top. Pretty good, but the grain really didn't come alive; it needed something... Finally, it hit me: tinted clear coat. Bill sells a tinted clear coat for "aging" a finish; it has just a touch of yellow dye in it. I sprayed three light passes of that over the sealer on the maple (after masking again) and the grain just jumped to life. There's a hint of color, but, if you didn't know it was there, you'd swear you were looking at a "natural" finish. After the tint dried and I removed the masking, I've sprayed four coats of clear nitro gloss. That's where I'm at now.

Anyway, here are some pics. As always, click the link below if you want to see a larger pic.

Here's one of the front:

<img src = "http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Project015.jpg">
Click <a href ="http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Prototype015.jpg">HERE</a> for a larger pic.

Here's another from the front, straight on:

<img src = "http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Project017.jpg">
Click <a href ="http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Prototype017.jpg">HERE</a> for a larger pic.

And another of the front, from a different angle:

<img src = "http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Project018.jpg">
Click <a href ="http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Prototype018.jpg">HERE</a> for a larger pic.

Finally, here's one of the back:

<img src = "http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Project019.jpg">
Click <a href ="http://mysite.verizon.net/bolinskey/Prototype019.jpg">HERE</a> for a larger pic.

Now, I have to wait until I have the spare $$ to buy the neck! Well, I suppose I have to finish the finish on the body, too....

I'll post more if I do anything interesting....

[Scotland]

That just gets more beautiful with every step !!!
The top has really become alive and the body shows that true mahogany grain, I love to see that natural mahogany colour on a L.P. and it looks just great on this one. The top is just astounding and the method you used obviously brings out the best in it. Well done (again) and now tell me how to get my tongue back in my mouth

[maestrovert]

my wife's handin' me the mop and bucket....says i gotta stop starin at the screen and mop up the drool....

[Teletwang]

Hey, watching this unfold is a hoot. Great play by play, Kevin. I guess the advantage of using a tint coat rather than dye is that you can easily start over if you're not happy with the result.It is a very subtle tint, btw. Also, did you seal the underside of the top as well?

[Desert Rat]

I haven't really played any "chambered" guitars. What exactly is the affect on the tone. How do you expect the instrument to sound different that if it weren't chambered?

I built a LP/tele hybrid last year with a similar setup only I used Harmonic Design Z-90's. The instrument has incredible presence and very transparent tone. My tele-blaster friend described it as "Hi-Fi". As a lightening move I used a 2" forstner bit to remove a bunch of material underneith the rosewood top plate.

FYI the body is built from Hond. Mahog. with Ind. rosewood top plate. It is bound with w/b/ivoroid binding. The set neck is 100 years dry red maple with ebony f.board. Indian rosewood on the front and back of the headstock and heelcap. I should probably put up more and better photos...



Desert Rat
(more guitars below)

http://www.imageantics.com/personal/

[Raymond]

Awesome... Coming from a "mahogany" country, and from a family of hobbyists woodworkers and a couple of pro carpenters (I'm the black sheep... ), I can tell that you nailed the natural color of the timber. Whenever you have the time, take a couple of pictures outside with indirect natural light, like under a tree for example, either early in the morning or by 4:00 pm. You'll love it.

I can't wait to see it with the neck.

I better take some simethicone because the GAS is killing me! (yeah, it was bad, but please give a break. It's monday morning and my boss is already driving me crazy....)

[Kevin]

Thanks, guys... It's coming along. It looks pretty good, now; the lacquer is quite smooth, and I'm at that stage where I wish I could just buff it out, now, but I know I'd sand through!

I didn't seal the underside of the maple because I had to glue it to the mahogany. The maple in the controll cavity that's exposed got sealed, of course, when I sealed the rest of the body, and it will get lacquer on it, too. The maple in the cavities, though, is bare.

[Teletwang]

Originally Posted by Kevin

...
I didn't seal the underside of the maple because I had to glue it to the mahogany. ...

Duh, of course. Just curious, is the control cavity cover area traced using an existing template or is it custom sized/made for this particular layout?

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by Teletwang

Just curious, is the control cavity cover area traced using an existing template or is it custom sized/made for this particular layout?

I used the templates from Stew Mac. It's a pretty decent, if large, design, as you can do about any layout you want, from an SG-style layout to a strat or tele layout. You may have to trim away a small bit of extra wood for some designs, but not too much.