Pros and Cons of 3 Spring Vs 6 Spring Bridge

[DastardlyDan]

So I've been slowly modifying my Squire Affinity Series Telecaster. First I replaced the nut with a hand carved one, then I replaced the pickups and selector switch. Next I want to do Bridge (and then afterwards tuners, and input jack.)

I definitely want through body bridge (stings go through the body, not sure if its called through body.) Right now I have a 6 spring top loader and I like the look of the 3 spring better, I even like the look of the ashtray cover. The guy who works on my guitar is amazing, and he works with some pretty famous guitarists, www.brokenneck.com however, he did his best to talk me out of 3 spring. He wants me to do 6 spring through body instead. What are all your opinions. I trust him as the best guitar tech in Boston, but as someone who works retail, sometime you have to give the customer what they want (I do all the time selling them inferior lights and locks at the bike shop.)

[bo]

Try the different kinds and see what you like. Also try the search function as there are about 7 trillion threads on this very topic. Bottom line: if you like the classic Tele twang go with the three saddle (...they're called saddles-but I know what you meant...) bridge. The three saddle has better sustain too. They don't intonate perfectly, but that hasn't stopped people from making classic recordings with them for decades.

[sthebluesman]

I had a six saddle for years until someone told me Teles don't sound like Teles without the 3 saddle. I went with the 3 saddle compensated brass from Callaham and will never go back. It definitely sounds better and has better sustain.

[boris bubbanov]

Check into the video interview Jim Campilongo just did at the NAMM show. The top loader has lots of potential. You can mod the existing plate and affix 3 barrel saddles; compensated so that they intonate just fine.

If you do a through string, you may get a fuller sound, a less compressed sound, but it is not all gravy and it is easy to mess up - it would cost too much, IMO. IMO, you buy a top loader or you buy a string through based on what you hear, then and there. It will be different when you switch it and all the "fun" of the way it once sounded may be gone.

Most of all, please don't select a vintage, six "hammer" saddle type through bridge. Not only is it fraught with bad things in through string form, you cannot revert it back to top loader for comparison or for better or worse. Get the 3 barrel one. That can be converted back and forth - why you can string through the E,A and D and top load the G B and little E so you can keep that slinky, bendy feel that probably made you buy that Tele in the first place. A string through of "Guitar A" is almost certainly gonna be "stiffer" than if you leave it alone.

Don't let me leave you thinking such a conversion will be cheap or easy. Nothing "cost-effective" about that conversion. It might exceed the cost you'd pay for a used Affinity, actually so we are talking human will here, not pragmatism.

[jamester]

Originally Posted by sthebluesman

I had a six saddle for years until someone told me Teles don't sound like Teles without the 3 saddle. I went with the 3 saddle compensated brass...and will never go back

Same here.

My new partscaster uses everything from my former MIA Tele with the exception of the 3-barrel bridge and a swamp ash body. The sound is so much more "tele" now, and while the body wood might also be a contributing factor I think it's mostly from the bridge.

I have mine top-loading, and it's fine. I can't really feel much of a difference compared to string-through TBH, it sounds and feels great!

[DastardlyDan]

I appreciate all the feedback. I know cost may not be worth it. I'm doing it mostly for cosmetics. I'm doing to my guitar what I did to my bicycle, get something affordable and over time upgrade one part at a time. I used to have a $800 bike that was worth almost $3000 when I sold it, the only thing original was the frame (not even the fork.) But yeah As long as I can get the ashtray cover doesn't matter to me if its six or 3 saddle. And since I just injured my left hand 2 months ago and starting to play again, having it easier to bend strings is more important at this stage.

[bo]

Ashtray covers look cool IMHO, but they hamper palm muting. That's why you see very few people using them.

[yegbert]

Originally Posted by boris bubbanov

Most of all, please don't select a vintage, six "hammer" saddle type through bridge. Not only is it fraught with bad things in through string form, you cannot revert it back to top loader for comparison or for better or worse. Get the 3 barrel one. That can be converted back and forth - why you can string through the E,A and D and top load the G B and little E so you can keep that slinky, bendy feel that probably made you buy that Tele in the first place. A string through of "Guitar A" is almost certainly gonna be "stiffer" than if you leave it alone.

Many folks use a vintage style 6-barrel bridge with no complaints. Some folks even happily use one of the thick flat "modern" bridge designs that use those skinny 6 barrels. Just because you don't like it doesn't mean it should be avoided by everyone else.

And there are dual loader vintage style 6-barrel bridges, I see plenty on ebay and in online stores.

[Mark Davis]

6 saddle intonates better and sounds different than the 3 saddle.

Thats the difference to anyone that thinks the 6 saddle cant twang I beg you to listen to Brent Mason.

[68thinline]

Originally Posted by DastardlyDan

I'm doing to my guitar what I did to my bicycle, get something affordable and over time upgrade one part at a time. I used to have a $800 bike that was worth almost $3000 when I sold it, .

I'm not sure you can do that with a guitar, Squier or not. The changes you make may be improvements but it's not likely to make the instrument any more valuable.

[shadewind]

But a guitar is still worth at least the sum of its parts.

[sthebluesman]

Originally Posted by jamester

Same here.

My new partscaster uses everything from my former MIA Tele with the exception of the 3-barrel bridge and a swamp ash body. The sound is so much more "tele" now, and while the body wood might also be a contributing factor I think it's mostly from the bridge.

I have mine top-loading, and it's fine. I can't really feel much of a difference compared to string-through TBH, it sounds and feels great!

Another huge advantage that I found with the 3 brass barrel bridge was that I don't break strings anymore. I used to have a serious string breakage problem with the 6 saddle with the little groove cut for the string. I even tried graphite bridge saddles which helped a little. But, the barrel has a nice round top and the brass in less abrasive on the string.

[DastardlyDan]

I understand 68thinline that I can't take a cheap part hot rod it with nice parts and expect to sell it for a bunch. I have no desire to sell my Squire Tele, I love this thing. I just the kinda person who would rather get a cheap guitar they can afford and slowly upgrade it over time instead of credit carding 1500 bucks or so


I appreciate all this bridge help guys lots for me to consider. Whats easier to bend being the most important. My guitar teacher would pay me if I could finally bend better

[Agave_Blue]

Originally Posted by shadewind

But a guitar is still worth at least the sum of its parts.

The discounted sum of it's parts at resale.

What I mean is if, say, the stock bridge costs $60 and the upgrade bridge costs $110, (etc, etc, etc), don't expect to get back $50 for the bridge and retail cost for all the other "upgrade" parts at resale.

AND, depending on the guitar, you might reduce it's value with new parts. A collectable in all stock condition. You put in new pickups, some hot rod wiring scheme, and a refinsish, etc and spend, say, $1000. You might very well reduce the retail value of the guitar essentially spending more than $1000.

[tiktok]

Originally Posted by DastardlyDan

I appreciate all this bridge help guys lots for me to consider. Whats easier to bend being the most important. My guitar teacher would pay me if I could finally bend better

The easiest way I've found to improve bending accuracy and ease (without changing string guages) is the get one of those hand-grip exercisers and carry it around with you. When ever you're waiting for the crosswalk light, your computer to save something, walking to the restroom, etc., squeeze off fifty grips on your fretting hand. Do about 500 a day, and after a couple of weeks you'll notice a real difference in how easy it is to bend.