Nocaster for smaller hands

[DMace]

Ok, have any Nocaster owners with less than gargantuan hands bought a Nocaster and adapted to the girth of the neck? I played a couple and loved the sound, but just could not get around the shoulders of the neck. Is this something one can adjust to? I ask, because I've adapted to other guitar necks, to the point where I can't imagine not feeling at home on them. But none of those necks were as extreme as the Nocaster.

[sdd28772]

I don't have large hands and purchased a NOS NoCaster. At first it felt a bit awkward but the more i played her i got used to the feel. I also own a 57ri gold top les paul which has roughly the same type of baseball bat neck feel and a es335 50's fat neck which is slightly smaller. I prefer the fatter necks despite my hands size makes me play better. I think the fatter necks improve the sound it gives a guitar that vintage woody tone in my opinion and when ever i pick up a smaller neck size guitar like my 62ri with a "7-1/4 C-shaped neck," i find it easier to play.

[Robert H.]

They're bolt on necks---find the neck you really love, and bolt it on.

[DMace]

Originally Posted by Robert H.

They're bolt on necks---find the neck you really love, and bolt it on.

Yeah, but that defeats the purpose. The fat neck is a big part of the Nocaster's tone.

[Ron Garson]

The earlier (Cunetto era) Nocasters have smaller necks.

[Mr. B]

I did play a nocaster a few weeks ago, but I can't really remember much about the shape of the shoulders (only that I loved the guitar).

If it's a quite pronounced U shape that is awkward for you, you can still find fat necks that might be easier. The fatbacks made by Warmoth and USACG are both C shape, so smaller in the shoulders, and the boatneck (super soft V in USACG's case) has even less material there. Those necks are still 1" thick so you shouldn't lose the fat vibe.
Finding some to test out might be the only tricky part.

[Derek McNelly]

Originally Posted by DMace

Yeah, but that defeats the purpose. The fat neck is a big part of the Nocaster's tone.

Tone is in the screws man.

Slotted screws give major improvements in tone. Even moreso if they're vintage slotted screws.

[Robert H.]

Originally Posted by DMace

Yeah, but that defeats the purpose. The fat neck is a big part of the Nocaster's tone.

Not to me...the purpose is to play the guitar. If you don't feel comfortable with the neck, you won't play it much.
Plugged into your favorite amp, I don't think your ears will hear much difference between a a fatter neck and a slightly thinner one.

[jedi]

I have a 2000 Nocaster Relic that I bought new and when I first got it I did have some trouble adjusting but the guitar just sounded too damn good. Over time I did get used to it and it has been my number one for a few years now. It has had a refret w/ 6105s and a bone nut installed and it keeps ticking along.

It will take some time to adjust but in my case it was worth the effort.

Good luck!

[surfoverb]

you could put a 52RI neck on it...I'll trade you mine.

[markesquire]

I have "less than gargantuan" hands. I played a Nocaster. I loved it.

For some reason, I didn't even notice the neck being prohibitive, just comfy.

I think it really helped that it was (1) relic, not sticky, (2) small frets, those add some extra girth even though it doesn't seem like it.

[surfco]

Originally Posted by DMace

Yeah, but that defeats the purpose. The fat neck is a big part of the Nocaster's tone.

+1

[DMace]

I think this thread has veered a bit off course. The original question posed was whether other players with smaller hands who owned a Nocaster had adjusted to the neck girth after playing the guitar for a while.
Markesquire - cool, that's what I was wondering.

[starjag]

Originally Posted by Derek McNelly

Tone is in the screws man.

Slotted screws give major improvements in tone. Even moreso if they're vintage slotted screws.

Where can I buy these screws? My Joe Barden bridge is missing two of them and my tone is rather terrible :-(



PS: I also have small hands and I find it hard to play big necks. Fingers do gain flexibility with time and I have seen players with small hands handle Nocaster necks without problems. Your hands have adapted to other necks, so maybe it is simply a matter of time and dedication to that particular neck.

[teleon]

I'm a sawed off bugger, about five-seven, whith size appropriate hands. My Nocaster is my favorite neck profile, but all my guits have chunky necks (Nocaster, 58 Les Paul Historic, 59 Thinskin Strat. I think it depends on your playing technique. I put my thumb in the middle of the neck and my fingers are up on the fretboard. It would be difficult to wrap my thumb over the top of the neck to fret the bass notes like some players do.

[DMace]

Originally Posted by teleon

I'm a sawed off bugger, about five-seven, whith size appropriate hands. My Nocaster is my favorite neck profile, but all my guits have chunky necks (Nocaster, 58 Les Paul Historic, 59 Thinskin Strat. I think it depends on your playing technique. I put my thumb in the middle of the neck and my fingers are up on the fretboard. It would be difficult to wrap my thumb over the top of the neck to fret the bass notes like some players do.

That's a sweet little collection right there.

[Derek McNelly]

Originally Posted by starjag

Where can I buy these screws? My Joe Barden bridge is missing two of them and my tone is rather terrible :-(



PS: I also have small hands and I find it hard to play big necks. Fingers do gain flexibility with time and I have seen players with small hands handle Nocaster necks without problems. Your hands have adapted to other necks, so maybe it is simply a matter of time and dedication to that particular neck.

http://www.callahamguitars.com/partstel.htm#

Look for the slotted head stainless steel screw kit. It's only 12 bucks.

[boris bubbanov]

I've got a No-Caster and I'm pretty fully adjusted to the neck girth or section. I have noticed that a USACG SSV-1 is actually a little better fit for me. It is a full 1 inch thick; you can do a 7.25 - 9.50 conical or compound radius which is very nice. A little less shoulder than the No-Caster or TMO-FAT.

I think palm size and width are big factors here. My fingers are downsized, but my palm is fairly wide so that may be why I adapted well.

+++

I recommend those slotted sets from Mr. Callaham. Nothing like being able to tighten those necks screws just so, and a phillips type won't let you do that - so in an unexpected way, fastener type does matter, IMO.

[Thekillertree]

Im sorry, I may not be of the know, but whats the big difference between slotted and non slotted ?( Philips head im assuming) Ive never heard of a difference before now.

[PeterUK]

Originally Posted by boris bubbanov

I've got a No-Caster and I'm pretty fully adjusted to the neck girth or section. I have noticed that a USACG SSV-1 is actually a little better fit for me. It is a full 1 inch thick; you can do a 7.25 - 9.50 conical or compound radius which is very nice. A little less shoulder than the No-Caster or TMO-FAT.

I think palm size and width are big factors here. My fingers are downsized, but my palm is fairly wide so that may be why I adapted well.

I think I'm agreeing with Boris.

I had a Nocaster-style neck and I hated it, but I replaced it with a big V-shaped neck (and Elliot Mechanic with a full 1-inch at the nut) and because it didn't have those huge shoulders, it feels GREAT in the hands.

The following picture may help:



Whenever I play a Nocaster I know I could never live with the shape of the neck but I've discovered a BIG neck is comfortable to play once you've found your preferred profile.

I suspect you just don't like the U-shape.

Hope this helps.

Peter