A Simple Telecaster Neck Shaping Method

[Nick JD]

I have a feeling lots of people are hesitant to build necks because of the "freehand" aspect of the neck profile, so I thought I'd do a bit of a build thread for the method I use.

There are plenty of ways to shape the neck - even computers can do it for you (Mr. Hawley!) but this is my way ... and it works for me. If you are wondering whether you can do it, then hopefully this thread shows that it's easier than you might think.

I'm using the thru-neck in a bass build over at the BASS Place for this example.

The neck is clamped to something solid. I do this in the space under my house because it gets very dusty and I don't like cleaning.

Using a ruler, the center of the back of the neck is marked and then an area about 1/4" wide is marked. This is a no touchy! area.



We also need to mark the back of the headstock with another no touchy! area (we can get all, Tadeo G on it later).



Another no-go area is marked (1/4") down the side of the fretboard.



A while ago I made some "worms" from epoxy clay and laid them over the back of my favorite neck.

[Nick JD]

On those profile worms I wrote the distance from the end of the heel and a number.



We'll see them in action later. They are for checking profiles if an accurate copy is needed.

Now we need these.



Because these...



...can make a lot of noise and destroy an eye quicker than I can blink.

The grinder has a 120 grit, rubber-backed pad. I prefer this light grit because it cuts Tasmanian Oak like cheese rather than butter.

So we make the first pass on either side.



You can see it's a bit rough. That doesn't matter in the slightest - what matters is that the cuts on both sides are roughly equal.

It's important to have a light-source from the side so it's possible to see the "horizon" of the curve as a straight line shadow.

[Nick JD]

So we go back and repeat the process, taking long even sweeps with the grinder so the lines (new corners) are parallel with the fretboard edge.



Again, there's no need to worry about slight wobbles ... we're removing the meat at this stage.

But it is good to check that both sides have the same amount removed.



And the other side.



Less than half a millimeter. Close enough.

Another pass on each side.

[Nick JD]

And a quick light pass to make the two sides even.



Now, a couple of passes down the "corners" to start rounding the back.



Then clamp the neck on its side and zip off that sharp edge.



The same was done on the other side. Then a quick progress-check with the profile gauge worms.



Getting close! These gauges are only being used as a guide here because it's a 30 inch Telecaster bass neck but I need it to feel like a 25.5" six string.

[Nick JD]

Then it's out with the sandpaper. For this I use 80 grit because you need something that cuts reasonably quickly or I loose patience.

The piece used is about a foot long. It's used exactly like a shoe-shine cloth with one difference - not only use a side to side pulling action like shining the toe of a shoe, but at the same time pull it up and down the length of the neck. This way you take off the grinder irregularities without creating "bumps".



Note the no touchy! area. Cut though this and your fretboard is no longer straight. That's what those pencil marks are for.

The neck is turned and clamped and after about 5 minutes of shoe-shinin' it's looking pretty close.



This still needs another run over with the 80 grit, but I like to walk away from it and come back the next day. You see things that you didn't see yesterday that need attention and you aren't bored with it, so you spend more time.

Then it's 120 grit and finish with 180 and 240 before grain filler.



I still have to grind this "heel" area comfortable and probably do the Tadeo curve on the headstock.



Cheers.

[Nick JD]

Oh, I forgot - here's the epoxy clay profile worms in action.



Once it gets the 9.5" radius on the fretboard it should feel just like my favorite neck.

[Quintin]

Now why have I never thought of that? Shaping with a grinder... must be pretty quick. Wow. Some nice ideas. Thanks for sharing

[jkingma]

Nice work That's pretty much how I make a neck except I use my spindle sander with the largest drum on it. I seem to have better control that way. And I lay on a strip of 1/4" masking tape in the no touchy areas instead of the pencil.

[shoretyus]

I like the worm idea. I have a profile gauge. I also get a charge out of the hand work of a rasp. But I have only made four necks.

[Superc_1]

I do the hand rasp. I do use the grinder when I roughout my mandolin tops and backs. They work really fast and nice. One side benefit in acoustic instruments is it gets the wood plates vibrating from the get go. I will use the grinder on my next neck build.

PS Thanks for the build thread!!!!

[old goat]

May I make a plea for using spokeshaves and rasps for the shaping, then files for the smoothing, before going to the sandpaper. A lot easier on the ears and lungs and a lot less likely to take off too much wood. The crucial tool is a cabinet rasp--I use a Nicholson #50 (I should get a 49 as well)--not cheap but works beautifully and fun to use. I don't make necks--yet- but I make a lot of cabriole legs--similar shape and you can shape them very quickly with hand tools, maybe even faster than with the grinder. I'm not against power tools--I use them a lot--but with the hand tools this kind of job is very calming and satisfying.

[twangcaster1]

Sweet thread! Thanks for the cool tips!

[Nick JD]

Originally Posted by old goat

May I make a plea for using spokeshaves and rasps for the shaping, then files for the smoothing, before going to the sandpaper. A lot easier on the ears and lungs and a lot less likely to take off too much wood. The crucial tool is a cabinet rasp--I use a Nicholson #50 (I should get a 49 as well)--not cheap but works beautifully and fun to use. I don't make necks--yet- but I make a lot of cabriole legs--similar shape and you can shape them very quickly with hand tools, maybe even faster than with the grinder. I'm not against power tools--I use them a lot--but with the hand tools this kind of job is very calming and satisfying.

What!? You don't think a GRINDER is calm and satisfying?

What you say is very true ... there's much pleasure to be had from approaching woodwork with a Confucian attitude.

But sometimes ... I just gotta get a little Tool-Time on stuff, ya know?

[BeeTL]

Nice, I like it!

[KCKC]

thanks for the thread nick. Great intell!

KC

[WisconsinStrings]

Sweet! I'm anxious to try a neck build of my own.

Thanks

[JDRNoPro]

Great thread - thanks for sharing. Never even considered building a neck before.

Jim

[RodeoTex]

Nice work Nick. I've used the angle grinder with a course grit disk many times and would not consider using anything else now. I used to use a spokeshave and the old books recommend but they can often bite too far into the grain and take away more than intended.
The grinder just removes what you intend -across the grain- and fast. Can't beat it, at least not without some sort of CNC carver.

[zach920]

Any good methods of making some profile gauges other than the epoxy clay? Or should I ask, where do you get epoxy clay?
Either answer is fine with me.

I'm starting on my first neck in a couple weeks. Practicing the shaping with a couple scrap pieces of poplar first and then on to maple after I get a feel for it.

[Nick JD]

Originally Posted by zach920

Any good methods of making some profile gauges other than the epoxy clay? Or should I ask, where do you get epoxy clay?
Either answer is fine with me.

I'm starting on my first neck in a couple weeks. Practicing the shaping with a couple scrap pieces of poplar first and then on to maple after I get a feel for it.

Good idea with the poplar.

The epoxy clay I use this this stuff.



But I'm pretty sure it's an Australia/NZ only company. That said - there's bound to be an equivalent product available from your local hardware store in Ohio.

There are also other methods, but I use this because it's cheap - and those tubes of epoxy clay are so damn useful around the house/car.

[zach920]

Found it. Thanks man. That stuff works great. I just put a piece of masking tape on the neck I was gauging and laid the epoxy on that. Sets up in no time.
Saved me a lot of time.

I think I'll hold off for a while on the grinder method for a while though. Just rasps, files and sandpaper for now. Thanks again.

[Nick JD]

No worries!