A definitive saddles thread?

[imwjl]

Hi,

Is there a definitive saddles thread I may have missed other than suggesting Glendale and Callaham compensated saddles?

I will have my Luthier set up my Telecaster after he works on an acoustic, and he suggested that I have compensated saddles when I drop it off.

Any suggestions? I was leaning toward Glendale compensated brass because I see he takes Paypal and brass seems like the classic material. I have a 2006 Highway One if that makes a difference.

I really like the instrument the way it is and I have been GAS-free since February and also sold a bunch of stuff so I don't want to be going down a slippery slope.

Thanks for any input.

[gitlvr]

If you really like the guitar the way it is, I'd leave it that way. But there's nothing wrong with upgrading/experimenting. Just remember, GAS gets bigger the more you feed it. Watch out for that slippery slope.

[SteveY]

If you like the way your guitar sounds, and it already has brass saddles, compensated brass saddles is probably a good thing to do. It improves intonation.

If your guitar has steel saddles and you like the sound, beware that a change to brass may reduce the highs a bit.
How much depends on body wood, fretboard material, etc. Might not be a bad thing, depending on other factors.

[maestrovert]

+1 if you like it the way it is, leave it be....

[imwjl]

Originally Posted by SteveY

If you like the way your guitar sounds, and it already has brass saddles, compensated brass saddles is probably a good thing to do. It improves intonation.

If your guitar has steel saddles and you like the sound, beware that a change to brass may reduce the highs a bit.
How much depends on body wood, fretboard material, etc. Might not be a bad thing, depending on other factors.

Thank you.

It has the stock steel saddles of a Highway One. I quite like its neck pickup tone and sometimes think I'd like the bridge pickup tone to be toned down. It seems I have toned it down in a manner by using pure nickel round core strings and that has been fine.

I did notice that with my own work I cannot get its intonation as good as I can with my Stratorcaster (Am. Dlx. Ash). My guess is that's the 6 saddle advantage and why the luthier suggested the compensated ones.

I realize this is not a high end guitar, but I like it's neck more than many I've played - sort of a make it as good as possible, but not turn it into one of those cars with wheels worth more than the rest deals.

Thanks again.

WJL

[Guitar_Ninja]

Not positive, but I'm pretty sure the stock saddles on the Hwy1 are chrome-plated brass. I replaced mine with Glendale's and it certainly added some warmth but also some high end sparkle to the guitar.

The real benefit to compensated saddles is the improved intonation. If your guitar intonates well and sounds fine then I'd leave it but if the intonation is off then I'd replace them regardless of how they sound. YMMV.

[spankdplank]

I'm sure I will get flamed for this, but here goes. If you like your existing bridge saddles, set up your three saddles to intonate as close as you can get, then get a pair of pliers and gently bend the G side of the middle saddle back and the D side of the saddle forward a bit. The intonation screw will bend slightly, but it can be bent back if needed. In most cases, this is all it takes to get a three saddle bridge to intonate properly, especially if your neck has a flatter radius like on the Highway 1's. Old school, but it works and it's free.

[imwjl]

Originally Posted by spankdplank

I'm sure I will get flamed for this, but here goes. If you like your existing bridge saddles, set up your three saddles to intonate as close as you can get, then get a pair of pliers and gently bend the G side of the middle saddle back and the D side of the saddle forward a bit. The intonation screw will bend slightly, but it can be bent back if needed. In most cases, this is all it takes to get a three saddle bridge to intonate properly, especially if your neck has a flatter radius like on the Highway 1's. Old school, but it works and it's free.

Hmmm....

I did wonder about something like that in that I know just my somewhat bone headed sloppy fingered playing the big frets creates intonation (tuning?) issues farther up the neck that aren't there when I'm doing something like playing open chords and my acoustics.

I see the Callahams look more like the compensation I ground into bone with one of my acoustics and they're less money than Glendales too. I would not mind warmer tone, but I have no idea of telling whether Glendale, Callaham or another would get that without spending more than it's probably worth.

;)

[scubadoo]

How about these, they're pretty cheap.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,...e_Saddles.html

[Taipan]

I would look into getting some Budz Triple Threat saddles. He is now offering them in Aluminum, Brass and Steel. You can run them straight or mix and match them. I am currently running a set of Aluminum on the E/A Steel on the D/G and Brass on the B/E on my latest build and loving it.

http://budzguitars.homestead.com/bridges.html

[yegbert]

Human discussion by definition is a continuum and refects an evolution of thoughts, and the content in an internet discussion forum like this reflects that reality. This forum software doesn't have a working feature to effectively collect for you, all the thoughts on a chosen subject.

I don't recall reading what I would consider something approaching a definitive thread on saddles.

Since you really like the instrument the way it is, I would be reluctant to pay someone else to change something like saddles. Ask the tech who is advocating this change what it would cost in labor, and then ask him if he would be willing to change it back to your stock parts after a trial period at no additional charge, if you decide you don't like it. It sounds like you'd be funding trying out what someone else thinks you should do to your gear.

But for anyone who champions knowing if a change like that would make an improvement and who's technical enough himself to do the work himself (so the labor is "free" and available at any time), my recommendation would be to try out different saddles.

[B Valley]

[KevinB]

Originally Posted by imwjl

Any suggestions? I was leaning toward Glendale compensated brass because I see he takes Paypal and brass seems like the classic material. I have a 2006 Highway One if that makes a difference.

Just an FYI that the Callaham stuff is available at Acme where you can order it directly over the 'net with a credit card.

[Ricky D.]

Originally Posted by imwjl

Hi,

Is there a definitive saddles thread I may have missed other than suggesting Glendale and Callaham compensated saddles?

I will have my Luthier set up my Telecaster after he works on an acoustic, and he suggested that I have compensated saddles when I drop it off.

Any suggestions? I was leaning toward Glendale compensated brass because I see he takes Paypal and brass seems like the classic material. I have a 2006 Highway One if that makes a difference.

I really like the instrument the way it is and I have been GAS-free since February and also sold a bunch of stuff so I don't want to be going down a slippery slope.

Thanks for any input.

Spankdplank has the right idea. No guarantee you will like it better with different saddles. Saddles will change the tone, and you like it the way it is now. Just tweak what you have.

[numeric]

I found that a set of tilt-compensated saddles worked perfectlyl for my DGBE but my EA could almost do with an uncompensated barrel. Weird huh?

[SteveY]

Once I settle on the string sets to stay with on my MIM Esquire (three steel saddles), I'll be bending them to intonate.

It's the cheapest way (until an intonation CHANGE is needed).

I've had OK results with AllParts compensated saddles too, but am staying with steel on this guitar.

[woodman]

one thing i like about the so-called shelf-compensated saddles is that all three saddles can make solid contact end-to-end, resulting in one (virtual) mass that might possibly add a little sustain.

[boris bubbanov]

Originally Posted by scubadoo

How about these, they're pretty cheap.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,...e_Saddles.html

Yeah, try these first and see what you think.

The big brass saddle gives you an even response instead of being biased towards certain frequencies like aluminum and various steels are. The Taipantone site assigns characteristics to the different metals and I find I agree with what Taipan is saying.

If your guitar seems to want to set up low, look at the faceted or "enhanced vintage" brass saddles from Bill Callaham, next. If the guitar seems to want to set up high and vintage, and/or if you are thinking of trying a thinner, twangier bridge plate, then the Glendale's are the better guess.

My three Highway Ones happen to have # 5167s and Callahams. The necks on Highway Ones tend to mount closer to flush to the body than, for instance, an AV52 or Baja, even measured with the pickguard off, and tend to set up low.