My 1973 Telecaster--need opinions

[RocketshipChair]

Hi guys,
I picked up a 1973 telecaster yesterday. I had asked a few questions about this guitar in a previous post.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaste...ml#post1347348

I ended up buying the guitar, however, I am having a few doubts about it now.

Frets look like they have been dressed. Body has been refinished. Body has a terrible neck pickup route (shown in pictures). Bridge pickup was replaced with what apears to be an G & L pickup. Wiring inside the control cavity is a complete mess. High E tuner is bent. Pickguard has been replaced. Some of the screws have threads all the way to the head; others do not. Control plate looks newer than the rest of the guitar/dome knobs apear newer also. The codes on the pots are: R1378334, FA5946.
The code on the switch is: CBL 1452 GR.
The switch tip is the modern style (not the tophat).
The codes on the capacitors are: YSP681K MCK and .05 20% 50v YSF
The guitar came with the original ashtray and case.

You guys have been a great help in the past and I enjoy this forumn a lot. It is great how much knowledge can be found here.

I have a few questions:
Are the pots, caps, and switch original for this guitar?
Also do you think the switch tip/knobs are original?
The original bridge pickup was included but is completely unwound. Will having it rewound greatly decrease the value compared to a pickup with original winding? Would it be wise to use wires from that era or would new wire be indentical?

Any information provided about 1973 telecasters would be very, very helpful. Thanks,

Andrew

[RocketshipChair]

Here are some pictures:

http://s412.photobucket.com/albums/p...air/73%20tele/

[slack]

Don't see pics at that link.

[skunqesh]

Originally Posted by RocketshipChair

Here are some pictures:

http://s412.photobucket.com/albums/p...air/73%20tele/

ya don't have to be Ansel Adams, but maybe try to refine those pics - not much is in focus.

Couldn't tell you much, but the neck looks early 70s - has the truss adjustment screw at the butt, and an added string tree. Unmount the neck to check the date stamp.

The pot codes: the first three digits denote the manufacture: 137 = CTS.

The last four in that sequence are the year and week, so the pots are from 1983. Couldn't say anything about the cap, but it looks green, which is to say it may not be original either. from the sound of it the controls were gutted. Would need clearer pics of the hardware to assess the rest.

Some things to look for on the body: Neck pocket, bass side notched or not? Is the body flat or 'flattish' along the side where the jack cup is?

The bridge pup is definitely something besides stock, those poles are flat, and huuuge. Don't worry that too much - Betcha it sounds great!

tha's all I got

[slack]

Based on the codes you provided pots are not original.

I think the only green caps I've seen in 70s Teles were probably left over 60s chicklets.

Switch may or may not be original. Switch tip really doesn't matter to anyone if it is or isn't. Far more have probably been replaced than are original.

Can't tell from your blurry pics if the knobs are original. But they should not be domed.

Yes, a rewound pickup is less valuable than an original. However, lots of vintage pups have to be rewound. That's just a reality. They're wound with hair-like wire, which is easily damaged, and they fail. You have a non-original, refinished Tele. I'd suggest you have the original bridge pickup rewound and put it back in there. Doesn't really factor in the value of this instrument, because this is not a collectible, or very valuable, guitar.

Bridge saddles are not correct.

What specifically do you want to know about 73 Teles? If you want to know if this body is from 73 you need to post clear pictures of the entire front, back, the neck pocket, clear pic of the control rout from directly above showing each end, and a shot where the upper bout meets the neck. Additionally, see if you can find the two router pin hole dowels in the back. Search the forum for info, then see if you can see them through the finish, using light at angles.

Dated your neck for you in the previous thread. 1973. The two string trees are original. Either a string made a circle around the A post or there may have been different tuners on it. I doubt there were though, because those are the correct F tuner bushings for 73 and wrong for late 70s and reissue F tuners.

Your pics are pretty bad. See if your camera has a macro setting and use that for close-ups, with a wide angle (zoom all the way out) and preferably no flash if possible.

[aram]

quick question- did you get this guitar in nyc?

and if so what store!!!
(:

[RocketshipChair]

Thank you skunqesh and slack for your responses.

I have taken new pictures of the guitar--I'm sorry about the crumby ones for ealier; I didn't realize how terrible they were off the camera. I posted some new ones in place of those, they're uploading as type this.

I'm thinking of replacing the body, control assembly, and pickguard. Would that be worth while at all or would it cost me more than another 73 with those parts intact?

And aram I live in upstate NY...sorry...but if you're up here ever we do have some killer guitar stores ;)

[RocketshipChair]

Here are the new photos:


http://s412.photobucket.com/albums/p...cketshipchair/

[ravindave_3600]

Originally Posted by RocketshipChair

I'm thinking of replacing the body, control assembly, and pickguard. Would that be worth while at all or would it cost me more than another 73 with those parts intact?

The only one who can answer whether that is or is not a good idea is you. What are you trying to accomplish? You know, it's now impossible to build a '73, and there's nothing special about that year even if you could (although I have one and love it). If you like how the guitar plays and sounds I'm not sure I'd mess with it.

[skunqesh]

What little I can diagnose:

Hope you didn't shell out buku bucks for an orig '73?

The Good.
It's a '73 neck and plate. Original tuners, and the extra string tree is correct for the year. So if you are hoping to see a 'return' on investment, don't hack with it. Bare in mind that using the description of 'Vintage' is subjective around here. For some, the 70s are 'Vintage'. For others, the worst possible years Fender ever existed. (and for a special few, a baaaad trip, man!). IMHO, that era is a mixed bag, best approached with caution. but i digress...

The rest (The Bad) - what that body is - is anyone's guess. Looks refinished in addition to the neck pickup route/repair. That repair job is to routing what Michael Jackson is to plastic surgery: Too much, Too late.

The Ugly
So before you go on a restoring tear, think it over. You may be talking about everything past the neck. Piecing together all those parts could cost you more than it's worth in whole, for a long time to come.

(disclaimer: btw, I am NO expert, just a Tele enthusiast and weekend warrior, so take anything I say and ask yourself "what the heck does he know?")

Other thoughts:
The bridge is RI (reissue). The knobs look RI.
But someone set it up with an aftermarket bridge pup, and a bleeder capacitor on the volume potentiometer. I'd be willing to bet it plays like a champ!

[RocketshipChair]

Skunqesh--it does play like a champ (very broken-in feel to the neck).

I didn't shell out 'buku bucks'. I paid about the price that my 11 year old Chevy Caviller is worth these days (its got 145k on it).

I really do love the spank out of its neck pickup...but that bridge pickup sounds like complete crap to my ears!

I'm going to visit my repairman tommorrow and see if he can rewind the bridge pickup (which is currently just a some magnets in wax :().

[aram]

I had a similar experience abut a guitar i bought that had even less original stuff.
It was from Rick kelly's shop. Rick said it was a 66 or 67 tele body, with one of his necks and original hardware.

the minute i picked up the guitar, i knew it had something special. it sounded amazing.
given the ridiculously cheap price, i bought it on the spot, despite all the routing under hte body, and the nasty (but awesome looking) refinish.

WHy? The guitar just had something. it sounded great. so I have no regrets in buying it.

I'm having Rick build me a new fat neck for it, as the current one is thinner. that should only improve the tone. but i have no idea what this guitar is, and don't care.
(:

[teleon]

Originally Posted by aram

I had a similar experience abut a guitar i bought that had even less original stuff.
It was from Rick kelly's shop. Rick said it was a 66 or 67 tele body, with one of his necks and original hardware.

the minute i picked up the guitar, i knew it had something special. it sounded amazing.
given the ridiculously cheap price, i bought it on the spot, despite all the routing under hte body, and the nasty (but awesome looking) refinish.

WHy? The guitar just had something. it sounded great. so I have no regrets in buying it.

I'm having Rick build me a new fat neck for it, as the current one is thinner. that should only improve the tone. but i have no idea what this guitar is, and don't care.
(:

That is such a cool look.

[aram]

Originally Posted by teleon

That is such a cool look.

shoe polish, my friend. shoe polish.

[skunqesh]

Originally Posted by aram

I had a similar experience abut a guitar i bought that had even less original stuff.
*
the minute i picked up the guitar, i knew it had something special. it sounded amazing.
*
WHy? The guitar just had something. it sounded great. so I have no regrets in buying it.
*
i have no idea what this guitar is, and don't care. (:

Ziggzactly! Nice finish, btw. I'm diggin that

Originally Posted by RocketshipChair

it does play like a champ (very broken-in feel to the neck).

I didn't shell out 'buku bucks'. I paid about the price that my 11 year old Chevy Caviller is worth these days (its got 145k on it).

Good on ya! Sounds about right on the money. Regardless of opinions of what's vintage or not - that neck will likely appreciate over time (better if kept as-is). I don't think a Cavalier is ever gonna do that. '73 isn't a benchmark year for Fender, but nostalgia should never be underestimated. It pretty much runs Ebay.

As for the bridge pup - rewinds can cost as much as a brand new pup, but if you have a line on a good deal tha's cool! Those magnets are pretty wide - reminds me of some old Seymour Duncans I've had.

The beauty of having a 'beater' guitar is you don't have to worry much about mods or dropping it. You might find one day yer itchin to drop a humbucker back in there . Whatever you get up to I, for one, love reading about what folks are tinkering with.
Cheers!

[RocketshipChair]

Thanx aram...I was having some serious doubts about keeping it. But your post has inspired me to restring her up with a nice pack of 10's, intonate it, and visit my guitar tech tmm and ask about having the original pickup rewound. Not really concerned about the cost of getting that pickup fixed and put in--the guitar store I bought it from is picking up the tab for that (at least part of it). But I definently prefer the sound of a fender pickup compared to that ugly one currently in there.

I have this thing were whenever I buy a new guitar I regret it for a while and than fall in love with it...does anyone else have this issue?

[RocketshipChair]

Forgot to mention...my next door neighbor does vintage stereo repairs for a living...

I know he'll have some old pots...can anyone tell me the namebrand of 1973 telecaster pots and what the code on them should read?

Also what kind of wire do I need to rewind the pickup?

[RocketshipChair]

Same question with the capicators.

Thanks.

[unzari]

Originally Posted by aram

shoe polish, my friend. shoe polish.

Why, I never...!

[skunqesh]

Originally Posted by RocketshipChair

Forgot to mention...my next door neighbor does vintage stereo repairs for a living...

I know he'll have some old pots...can anyone tell me the namebrand of 1973 telecaster pots and what the code on them should read?

Also what kind of wire do I need to rewind the pickup?

Not sure what changing the pots would accomplish? Aside from their resistances there's nothing unique about pots that sounds different from one brand or year to the next. This is a jumping off question that would ultimately lead to a lot of information best handled in the 'Tech' department. Try searching TDPRI for more threads/info about pots and rewinds, etc - there is a treasure trove of info here.

fwiw - Fender used both CTS and Stackpole audio pots throughout a good chunk of the 70s. Typically following the manufacturers code (ie 137 for CTS) there's a four digit code which is the last two digits of the year, followed by the week, so 1377317 would be CTS, 1973, 17th week. The resistance is usually marked as well (250k for 250,000 ohm rating). There may be other info stamped on 'em, but that's the stuff you're looking for.

If you're determined to find original parts, try this: Ebay.
Not talking about buying anything per say.
Just search on: 1973 Fender Telecaster -(RI, Reissue)
Sellers often dismantle their axes to authenticate them. You'll probably see a lot of modded out guitars, but you'll also get an eyefull of what original '70s Fenders are made of.
Good Luck!

update: reread your first post, and had a few more bits to add.

That switch is a three way, CRL 1452, which is standard issue on all teles from the 50s up thru the 70s. The switch has evolved a little since its inception, but newer teles (late 80s to present) sport something that looks completely different and I'm not familiar with. They don't fail often and when they do its typically due to a contact becoming loose. I fix them by gently pushing the contacts back into alignment/firmness.

The capacitor, regardless of make, is the correct value (.05uf = 50,000 micro farad) for a standard tele. The volume pot has a .001uf bleeder capacitor installed which is a GREAT mod, (imho). This cap essentially lets some signal bleed back into the line as volume is rolled down - keeping it from sounding muddy as you lower it. If you like provenance, Leo Fender himself included this mod as standard fair to his line of G&L ASAT ('tele') guitars.

If the pots are scratchy just use a compressed air duster (like the kind used for computers) and blow 'em out. Add just a touch of WD40 and baddabing, good as new.

[timgreene]

body looks right also. How is the neck pocket? is it loose, or tight?

Its a player so just put the best electronics in it you can, keep the old ones. You want old scratchy pots?

[RocketshipChair]

Pots were scratchy (same with the switch)...I have a fantastic contact cleaner that made the pots in there sound like new. :D

Being that I should have access to various new old stock parts...Are the pots from 73 CTS or Stackpole?

I've decided that I will definently be keeping this guitar and that I'm probally gonna leave everything alone except for the following:

New screws in the saddles (the current ones are very stripped)
Redrill holes for the pickguard/control plate, as the current ones have been streched in every way possible and nothing lines up well.
Replace the pots with those from the 70s.
Rewind the original bridge pickup and install it.
Straighten out the tuning post on the high E tuner.

Any objections?

[slack]

Originally Posted by RocketshipChair

Replace the pots with those from the 70s.
Rewind the original bridge pickup and install it.
Straighten out the tuning post on the high E tuner.

Any objections?

I wouldn't bother with the pots. Some of the best sounding vintage Teles I've owned/played were original except for the pots. I've found with 70s Teles that I tend to like the bridge pickups far more often than the pots. I like the 1 MEG pots, but some are better than others. So, I'd endorse the original pup rewind/reinstall, but go with whatever pots (or experiment). In this case it will not effect the value at all.

Straightening a bent tuning peg is bad mojo. Do it at your own risk.

Still would like to see clear, close-up pic of the neck pocket.