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Old August 4th, 2008, 05:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Coming to a thread near you. . .

Here's one that's a bit different....



The Charlie Baty special..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/novaron/665146886/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/neverslim/2366477469/

I didn't really think about doing a thread, so I am this far along, it's just a conventional thinline body at this point.... and I'm waiting for a few parts to verify the positioning, then its back to making sawdust..

Ron Kirn

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Old August 4th, 2008, 05:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ron, you're such a freak. I wish I was the same kind of freak. This gonna be cool. And I don't even like hollow solidbodies.
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Old August 4th, 2008, 05:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm very curious about how this is going to turn out!
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Old August 4th, 2008, 05:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That is one cool T. Love the triple P90 setup and the "fancy" inlay on the
fretboard. Not my kind of Tele but still a good looking guitar.
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Old August 5th, 2008, 09:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Can't wait to watch this one unfold, Ron. Interesting take on a thinline. Question: Is the knob on the cutaway a master volume?
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Old August 9th, 2008, 08:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Since we have seen bodies being built out the wazoo … I thought I’d pickup where it gets interesting.

This is a copy, as close as I can get to Charlie Baty’s Tele…






The body is alder with a flame maple veneer, I’m attempting duplicating it from a few photographs, which makes it quite interesting..



First thing to do is to establish the landmarks I know are definitive. The “F” holes, and the neck pocket in this case..

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Old August 9th, 2008, 08:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Align the template, which is idiot proof… I know, ‘cause I can do it…



Oh, I have been asked many times about how to cut the F holes since the narrow areas are too narrow for the normal type template tracing bits….What I do is use a 1/4 inch carbide spiral bit, and allow the shank to act ad the bearing.

Here you see it against a section of ¾ inch MDF



I now drill an access hole for the bit, in close quarters like this I don’t want to be lowering a spinning bit into the wood…



Now…I simply do it to it.. I do move slowly to insure a smooth cut, sanding the edges in that tight space is “special”.



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Old August 9th, 2008, 08:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Now… remove the template and flip ‘er….



Now simply repeat whatcha just did…



and Waa Laahh < redneck for Voila!



Now, if you’ve found out that necks are not all the same size, and have several templates, find one that the neck fits, LOOSELY, there will be paint added later.



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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Oh, speaking of necks….





this thing’s so figured, I thought a big lizard had snuk up on me…

Just to be certain everything is in the normal position, I mark the end of the neck pocket, 3 inches deep. I’m doing this because I can’t use the registration holes, the bridge will be in a slightly different location.



I always cut the neck pocket in 2 sweeps, here I’ve set the depth at about 5/16 inch



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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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After ,making that pass I reset the depth to 5/8 inch, and finalize the neck pocket rout.



one neck pocket….



Now, only a bridge and a few pups to go…. So this will require a bit of guitarometry, so I collect some of my Guitarometry tools.



I mark a center line down the body then sit the bridge in position. This is determined by placing the 1st string saddle almost all the way forward, then placing it so that it is 12 ¾ inched from the 12th fret.



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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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With the neck placed in the pocket, I can use a straightedge to determine where the strings will fall, so I can see what the alignment of neck, string and bridge will be, and make any subtle adjustment necessary to have everything visually correct, which is far more important than things being technically correct, with the exception of that first string bridge… that’s gotta be right.





Just to be sure it’s all square relative to the presumed centerline



Now mark the location of the bridge’s mounting screws..



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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You don't really make this stuff up as you go do ya?

Another fine thread ya' got going!!!
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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Great stuff Ron!!!
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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Oh, you probably noticed, I disassembled the bridge so I could access the string holes.

Now I run in a couple of ¼ inch screws to hold the bridge in position, I recheck the geometry with straightedges to be sure nothing has wandered off the farm.

Then I take a drill bit and rotate it in the string holes to mark the location.



Now over to the drill press, check to be certain the drill bit is 90 degrees perpendicular to the table. I have a radial arm drill press, fixed head presses shouldn’t have thins problem.



It’s just a matter of pounding out the 6 holes….



Then bring the bit all the way down and make a hole in the table, for a registration pin.



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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Insert a pin into the hole… if it’s too loose, a drop of CA will keep the little bitc*….umm… the pin in position..



Flip the body over, place the pin in the first string hole. Be sure the body is flat against the table, and drill away…OH.. wait….Congress recessed before allowing any drilling didn’t they?



Drill then move the body, locating the next hole over the pin… repeat until you run out of holes…

You should wind up with something like this..



OK,, so we know where the bridge will be going…. Let’s get those P 90’s situated….

I place the neck and bridge pup in location. Since I’m working off a photo I can only deduce the dimensions by close examination. I’m assuming the neck pup is about 7/16 from the fingerboard, and the same for the bridge pup relative to the bridge. I mark those locations.

I place the middle pup in location and center it using a ruler. The weight on the first pup is just to keep it from scooting every time I touch it.



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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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After a bit of scooting pickup covers around, I have a location for 3 pickups.



I thought I took photos of all I do to insure everything is square. Poof. Disappeared into the Digital black hole I guess…



SO I locate my trusty P 90 template, clamp the bugger firmly, ad buzz the rascal… I’m making the routs ½ deep.



repeat in the other 2 positions. And this is where I am now.



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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Ahh, you make it look so easy. That's one spendicular lookin' neck!
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Old August 9th, 2008, 09:56 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I take a moment to do the grunt work…



Well I now have everything situated, but I want to get the pickguard correct, so while it’s unfinished, I mist a piece of craft paper with spray adhesive… give it a good while to dry to a semi tacky state and stick it down..



Using “Landmarks” from the photo, I note the angles of various points in the photos, and make corresponding reference marks on the craft paper.



Then I will sketch, and erase, and re draw… I’ll step away for a break so I come back with another perspective, sketch and erase and re draw, until I’m pretty happy that it looks pretty close.

I now have to locate the control knobs, using the photo; I can determine that a line drawn through the three knobs centers will intersect the neck at about the 17th fret…



Therefore I locate my straightedge on the 17th fret, and estimate the location relative to the F hole and make a line…

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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:03 PM   #19 (permalink)
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With the line on the craft paper, It’s simply a matter of getting the spacing correct.



Since I don’t know exactly what kind of knobs are on the original, I try this… using a pair of dividers, I take the diameter of the knob… and then check against the frets in the same photo,



This worked out to about the 6th fret, which is over 1 1/6, too large for the knob… so scratch that Idea… I go with the next best method… I guess… 7/8ths.. Since I’m probably gonna be making the knobs anyway, 7/8ths works for me…



So plot.. and check against the photo….



Not even close…..

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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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MAn that is one sharp, and quality built machine taking place there Ron!
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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:11 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The reason that layout was a reject is because there’s too much space between the last knob and the end of the guitar…

So erase . . and a re-do is in order….



It’s looking pretty close here, so I’m sticking with this one…

Again using a straightedge and the photo, I determine that a line running from the apex of the curve formed by the bottom horn, actually the only horn, extended through the center of the switch knob intersects the neck at about the 18th fret…. Therefore I extrapolate and layout a corresponding line on the guitar.



When a center mark is place and the knob’s diameter is drawn I can see it appears a bit too far forward, so I relocate it about 3/16 back… that looks about right.

I take an awl and mark the locations…



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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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something got outta whack.... here's the correct photos...









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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:18 PM   #23 (permalink)
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OK so what do I do with that drawing of a pickguard….



I stick it to some MDF and waddle over to the band saw…



then using whatever sanding tools at hand… I sand away whatever dosent look like the pick guard I want to wind up with,





I just keep at it,, I’ll take it over to the guitar, place it in position, eyeball it, if something looks funky, I go remove the funkyness with the sander again.

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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:25 PM   #24 (permalink)
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You probably noticed in the shot above, the shape was redrawn again.. as I have been working on other stuff, I’ll come back and re-examine the pickguard because after a few minutes of working on something else, I can get a different perspective and see things I was missing before.

I use golf grip tape to secure two straightedges to rout the top edge of the pickguard, note the diameter of the router bit will determine the radius of the corner cut, so you have to choose one that is correct for the pickup that will be used. Here 1/2 inch diameter is perfect.



how’s that look?



well I’m this far along…. Why not…..



just be sure you’re doing a righty for a right handed guitar.

A thing of beauty huh?



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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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A buzz around the edge….




and I forgot to shoot doing the bevel, so. . .
beveling, beveling…. A bit more beveling…. All through…

and the evening and morning were just another day….



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Old August 9th, 2008, 10:58 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Dude you just ruined my winter....... look nice in a Root Beer?


Back away from the wood pile real slow........
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Old August 10th, 2008, 11:12 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Ron, this project has an incredible vibe. Superb work and a great inspiration.

BTW: Do you have any info on the original instrument? Google is being a stick-in-the-mud.
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Old August 10th, 2008, 11:48 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Just a few photos.... I'm on my own on this one..

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Old August 10th, 2008, 01:37 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I could do that ...

But I got to tell you Ron - you're good!
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Old August 10th, 2008, 01:49 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Oh, I have been asked many times about how to cut the F holes since the narrow areas are too narrow for the normal type template tracing bits….What I do is use a 1/4 inch carbide spiral bit, and allow the shank to act ad the bearing.

Here you see it against a section of ¾ inch MDF




Ron Kirn
Great work Ron...Reverse engineering! It's one of the fun things in life!!

By the way...when I saw that picture of the cutting of the F hole I thought " Hey, RotoZip"...did you ever try to cut them with a rotozip and 1/8 bit?

Cheers
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Old August 10th, 2008, 02:41 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Bought one of those POS ... and used it once .... all it's good for is Sheetrock work...

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Old August 10th, 2008, 02:58 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Ron makes it look so easy ... stunning piece o' work, mate! can't wait to see it finished.
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Old August 10th, 2008, 03:00 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Ron makes it look so easy ... stunning piece o' work, mate!
You got that right Woody!!

Looking absolutely gorgeous Ron!
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Old August 10th, 2008, 03:28 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Hey, Ron, which bridge assembly is that, and is that steel or brass under that chrome plating? Got a parts number, perchance?

Beautiful work, Ron. I guess it is too late for me to fawn over the Baty theme or design; everybody has their own personal taste; the craftsmanship is delightful.

Much obliged.
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Old August 10th, 2008, 03:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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are you going to do the inlays in the fretboard? That is one sharp tele...
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Old August 10th, 2008, 03:39 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Allparts carries it, SB 5115 010 it's Brass with Steel saddles.

rk

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Old August 10th, 2008, 03:41 PM   #37 (permalink)
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inlays in the fretboard?
nah, it will have a conventional fingerboard.. ya don't spell Gerry // Charlie..

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Old August 13th, 2008, 10:05 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I'm in a lull right now, waiting for the switches,. pots etc to arrive before I rout the back.

If anyone has an interesting wiring diagram for 3 p90 (3 single coils) and a rotary switch, i'd be interested in seeing whatcha got.

rk
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Old August 16th, 2008, 09:51 PM   #39 (permalink)
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So we have determined what the electronics will be like, so I can proceed. Using the schematic of the ’49 ES-5 I’ll have a volume for each pup and a master tone, Ill be cheating by using a push/pull on the volumes to give a bit more flexibility.

Therefore I take the Thinline cavity template and layout the interior of the body, just so I know where whatever is inside.



Then I take an access panel template and layout the location..





After drilling a pilot hole for the router bit, I mark the approximate location of the inside of the ledge so I can position that template with some apparent symmetry.



Ron Kirn
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Old August 16th, 2008, 09:55 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I place the template and clamp securely..



and buzz away…





Now adjust the bit to allow for the thickness of the cover plate, made of Bakelite.



Ron Kirn
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