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#1 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 74
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My first "from scratch" body
Well, folks - here's my new baby.
These first 5 pictures show the progression from a hollowed out mahogany blank (cut down by 1/4"), to my high-tech top clamping system. I'm actually clamping the top to the body between two old (not quite exactly right) templates, and using the weight plates to ensure that the center of the top stays down. With the top on you can see the two dowels I used to position the top. I got this idea from John Page. Finally you see the pickup cavities routed. Before applying the top I routed a couple channels from the pickup areas into the control area, so no further drilling would be required. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 74
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Here we've moved on a bit.
The first photo shows the neck pocket rout. Next is the socket - I used an Electrosocket, and I tried to countersink the lip. It worked great, but I still need to get a little lacquer out of the countersink to get it really flush. Finally she's sealed and ready for lacquer. I used CA glue to fill the grain and provide a really flat surface for the lacquer with no sinking into the grain. It works very well. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 74
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OK, the final product.
The body is mahogany (I *think* Khaya, but it was supposed to be Honduran), and the top is Makore (a.k.a. African Cherry). I used "Stringed Instrument Lacquer" and colored the back and sides a deep reddish brown. Flush Stew-Mac ferrules. First pickups are from GFS clearance - not sold on them yet. P-Style Megaswitch and 500K pots. The bridge is an eBay special, but seems solid enough. I'd like to put some String Saver saddles on her soon. The "temporary" neck is a Warmoth Fatback birdseye maple with rosewood board. I'm also in the process of building my first neck, but it isn't done yet. It will be made of Wenge, with an ebony fretboard. Acoustically, it sounds very nice, very resonant, with some zing to it. The Makore has some big figure in it, as the photo shows. I'm very pleased with this first scratch body. Mr. Kirn's templates are da bomb! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mint Hill, NC
Age: 62
Posts: 5,964
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nice work! i appreciate it all the more since i recently did my first from-scratch body. +1 on the Ron Kirn temps. how does she play?
__________________
Truth is stranger than fact ... www.myspace.com/woodymitchellmusic BAND PAGES: www.myspace.com/stragglerswing (Stragglers - Western Swing) www.myspace.com/loafersgloryband (Loafers Glory - '70s country-rock) |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Perhaps you could explain a little of how you used the CA glue for grain filling.
__________________
Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ ![]() Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 74
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Thanks again, folks.
CA fill - you can use either "medium" or "thin" - "thick" does not work well. It's very simple, really. Squirt some onto the wood, and I use a plastic squeegee (or even a paper towel) to work it into the grain. Of course, it hardens very quickly, though I usually let it go for 15-30 minutes. I can then sand it back and check for areas that need a little more attention. Thin works okay, but on end grain the medium works a lot better. Here's the thing, though - not only is it clear, it does not shrink, and lacquer bonds to it wonderfully (mutual acetone thing, I guess). With NO penetration of lacquer into the wood, the lacquer builds very quickly. Watch the fumes, though. It does make the eyes burn. A fan around you is a must. A mask would also be a good idea. But, boy, does it work well. For the more technically-minded. A bonus is that CA has a similar refractive index as lacquer - so the look is just as if lacquer only had been used. Clarity is very high. Grain is "dark" due to shadows now, rather than pigment (or sand). Try it out on some scrap, then when you're satisfied that all the grain is filled, hit it with some lacquer. I think you'll like your results. One thing though, it makes it so you cannot dye the wood then seal it with CA. That's okay with me though, as I very much prefer putting any dyes in the finish rather than in the wood. I just like that look better. There is a lot of info about all type of grain filling (not just CA) on www.mimf.com - the "Musicians and Instrument Makers Forum." It is mostly guitar makers of all stripes on that site. Highly recommended. Free to join, though they do appreciate any contributions. In fact, there is a lot of info there about ALL THINGS guitar-making, not just grain filling. Please go check it out. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
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Very nice.
Thanks for the explanation of the CA.
__________________
"If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maryland's Eastern Shore
Age: 51
Posts: 644
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Nice looking guitar you have there. It's got sort of a Gretsch like look going on without really looking like a Gretsch.
You take on grain filling with CA is interesting too. Nice work. |
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