Fret Access Cutaway Question

[Nick JD]

I'm wondering if any Telecaster owners out there have a contour on their cutaway to make fret access easier/comfortable...

Any preferences? Turnoffs?

This is what I've got so far. It's got a carved top and back with a constant radius except for the middle where the bridge and pups go (which is flat), and the ferrules. It feels very comfortable on the forearm and the belly, but I might also give it an actual belly cut too.



Wondering how far in I should go on the cutout. These pencil marks are only a guide at this stage. Not sure if the upper bit needs contouring, but it looks better mefinks.

How far in do I butcher the thing?!

Cheers!

[beep.click]

Gut feel -- you'd notice the most difference if you worked the neck heel.

I like the idea of a contour on the cutaway more as a cosmetic feature. So I say, go with whatever looks best.

[reddogbass]

Hey Nick- Have a look at these. http://www.dpergoguitars.com

I thought this is one interesting solution and it might work on your neck-through. It is a neck-through, huh?

BTW- where's the story and pics on the rest of that guitar? Have we seen it before?

[Nick JD]

Originally Posted by reddogbass

Hey Nick- Have a look at these. http://www.dpergoguitars.com

I thought this is one interesting solution and it might work on your neck-through. It is a neck-through, huh?

BTW- where's the story and pics on the rest of that guitar? Have we seen it before?

Cheers, guys.

That does look comfortable.


Yes, it's a neck-through, 100% radiata pine! But it's not a "guitar" ... it's the master-shape of another guitar to be done in carbon/kevlar/alloy so cosmetics don't matter, just shape and the all-important perfect surface finish. One of its babies will probably get a build thread (if Jack keeps bugging me ). Since "clones" are made of this shape it needs to be a real "player" - and this way of building means every last nuance is transfered to the final copy ... so the master-copy has to be perfect! Sure makes me nervous when I stand over it with my grinder dong 10,000rpm . I'm really liking the headstock's angle (no string holder-downers!) and the carved body.

Lots more work.



It's 1.7" thick in the middle tapering off to just over an inch at the edge.

[6x47]

If the reason for a contour on the cutaway is to make fret access easier, would not the contour be dictated by the size of your hand and where you want to place it?

For example a D flat six string chord at the 21st using the same fingering as you would at the 9th would require a contour depth dependent on both hand size and angle of attack (Now watch some genius declare, "Why would you want that chord at that position anyhow?").

[Nick JD]

An update. I got the "guitar" finished in 5oz glass cloth and black epoxy (no clear on top) so I could see any defects and get it smooth. A pack of strings are there to show the depth; you can also see the distant hills! That angled headstock is really starting to grow on me. It's got a rolled front and back radius, except on the middle of the back and front - if that makes sense. It's not a constant radius. Very comfortable.

The black finish just before buffing and waxing looked just like the whole guitar was made from ebony.



Next we need to do some cloning... .