Question for the DIY Telemakers

skunqesh · June 3rd, 2008, 10:13 PM

Greetin's

I've been searching high and low for information about joining slab wood, ala guitar bodies, and haven't been able to dig up anything that puts me on the right track. Thought it might be more expedient to ask the DIY experts & artisans here. I've been admiring the builds in some of the threads and believe there's much to be gleaned from the archives.

Would/could anyone point me in a good direction - links, old TDPRI threads, books, etc?

I'm pretty good with a router and saw, have put together a parts caster or two, but am looking to take it to the next level (just for building bodies). I've got tools, I'm a glutton for punishment, and failure is no obstacle.

so I've got that going for me..

specifically joining slabs is on my mind - how it's (best) done for a solid body guitar. Any info/advice is greatly appreciated

boozer · June 3rd, 2008, 10:41 PM

from my experience, all you need is a jointer, wood glue and clamps. run your mating sides through the jointer to assure that both are flat, then spread you wood glue evenly and clamp with multiple clamps. just make sure that its tight! and give the glue ample time to dry. the key (i think) is to make sure that the mating pieces have a smooth flat connection to each other.

and if you dont have a jointer at you disposal than you could get a hand plane with a fence (jointer plane) and do it really old fashioned. at that point it would be best to rough your shape with a coping saw as well ;)

eryque · June 3rd, 2008, 10:53 PM

You could skip the jointer altogether and have a local woodshop (cabinet maker, mill, etc) do the joining for you. You'll have to make an awful lot of guitars before buying a decent jointer pays for itself.

axmaker · June 3rd, 2008, 11:14 PM

i like using a plate jointer (biscuts). they line up your flat plane too. just have to make sure they are away from the edges you're going to cut the body. also great for attaching to a neck-through body blank like in the photo above.

skunqesh · June 3rd, 2008, 11:25 PM

Thanks for the pointers (I'm gonna hold off investing in that 'coping saw' until I've mastered the rusty butter knife technique first

)

I was very curious to find out if biscuits were ever used - Axmaker cleared that up (I'd be afraid to not use them).

I've been hankering to invest in a jointer, but I wouldn't be surprised if one of my neighbors is hiding one in their garage.

cheers!

Axis29 · June 4th, 2008, 05:37 AM

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocas...d-here-ya.html

I know it ain't a Tele, but Ron builds those too.

jaydawg · June 4th, 2008, 06:14 AM

There really is no need for biscuits. A good flat joint will be stronger than the wood around it. And there is no risk of finding one of those biscuits when cutting out your outside profile. When glueing up a blank I use four clamps. Two to hold the two halfs of the blank together and two to keep the parts lined up in the horizontal view (I use one clamp at each end spanning the joint).

Here is another build thread that I put together. I might give you some more ideas.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocas...ody-build.html

Axis29 · June 4th, 2008, 06:50 AM

Darn, forgot to make mention about a Joiner...

A lot of the time there are woodworking clubs in bigger urban areas. I have Woodcraft store near me and they have a woodworking shop where customers can go and use the tools we can't afford. They have a couple of nice Joiners and thickness planers I will use on occasion when the job is bigger than my tools.

You can also try the local Community College.

B Valley · June 4th, 2008, 06:55 AM

Stewart McDonald used to have a pretty extensive line of videos on building, start there. You can start your search there for good template, as well.
As far as tools, a jointer is almost indispensible for building bodies. You don't need a large one necessarily. Watch the classifieds and garage sales. A jointer and some good bar clamps are essential.
For roughing out a body, you can use just about any kind of saw, but get a band saw, the bigger the better, although you can get by with a small one at first.
Then you'll need a router and some good bits, and that's where you should invest in Quality. A router that can't hold an adjustment or doesn't hold a bit in place can be a real pain, and soon you'll have a pile of bodies in your shop that were almost done.

Ronkirn · June 4th, 2008, 07:31 AM

Yellow wood worker's glue..... plane them.... glue then together.... do not allow the joints of one slab, align with the joint of the second.... glue it up so it's thicker than 1 3/4" thick... allow it to cure for a week to allow the internal stresses to release... then plane to 1/3/4 and get to making sawdust...

we're here to help.....

Ron Kirn

reddogbass · June 4th, 2008, 07:54 AM

Quote:

do not allow the joints of one slab, align with the joint of the second....

Ron- maybe it's the wording, but this instruction has me a little confused. Are you saying "do not align the joints"? Fill us in.

skunqesh · June 4th, 2008, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reddogbass

Ron- maybe it's the wording, but this instruction has me a little confused. Are you saying "do not align the joints"? Fill us in.

yeah, that has me a bit perplexed as well

but thanks to all ya'll. Axis29 - that's a great idea, I'm in the bay area, so I believe your suggestion will work very well. I've got a drill press/router/table saw - and a delusion that I can 'Do This!'. If I've learned anything in this life, it's ya can't stop the deluded. At least not with low caliber.

If/when I get the ball rolling I'll post pics, but don't hold yer breath

I'm a total newb to body building, unless it's lifting 12oz at a time (guh), but I'll put up my mistakes (likely) along with any successes (again, don't hold yer breath).

Cheers!

boozer · June 4th, 2008, 03:15 PM

make no mistake...it can be done, not long ago i thought "i dont think i can" but none the less i did, and now i wish i didn't think about it for six years, it's all about having fun anyways!

jwells393 · June 4th, 2008, 03:18 PM

Before I bought my jointer I could get straight edges suitable for glueing by clamping a straight edge to the board and running the straight edge along the front edge of my radial saw table with the blade in the rip position. There is probably some way to do something similar with a table saw.

......

Ronkirn · June 4th, 2008, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Are you saying "do not align the joints"? Fill us in.

If using 1 inch stock, usually you will join along the edge 2 pieces to make one at least 13" wide... If you do that twice to laminate them to get a 2 inch blank.. do not allow the 2 joints to align stagger them a bit to add strength and stability.

rk

guitarbuilder · June 4th, 2008, 06:08 PM

I alternate the annual rings ( smile up, smile down, smile up) when doing a wide panel. I also put some slash marks on the pieces that direct me to hold the wood against the jointer fence at the same angle so that there is compensation for any angle less than 90 degrees that my cheapo jointer may bend to. in other words each piece of wood gets 2 marks at the glue joint like this /l/ The lower case L is the glue joint. I also use a metal cabinet scraper to remove any nick lines that the blades cut into the jointed edges. Usually 3 bar clamps per body will do it. Don't overclamp it and squeeze out the glue. It really shouldn't take much clamp pressure to get a good glue joint.
Marty

Nick JD · June 4th, 2008, 06:55 PM

What's a jointer?

B Valley · June 4th, 2008, 09:29 PM

Since you're in the bay area, go check out Japan Woodworker in Alameda and McBeath Hardwoods in Berkeley. Either place will have alder and poplar in two inch thickness. I prefer a one piece body whenever possible, if you can find the stock. Otherwise two pieces is fine. Poplar would be a good choice for a first project. If cuts and routes well, unlike pine which will give you fits with anything less than very good quality tools.
Both places also have some fine woodworking equipment to drool over.

reddogbass · June 4th, 2008, 09:53 PM

Quote:

If using 1 inch stock, usually you will join along the edge 2 pieces to make one at least 13" wide... If you do that twice to laminate them to get a 2 inch blank.. do not allow the 2 joints to align stagger them a bit to add strength and stability.

Of course- a lap joint of sorts. That makes sense. No wonder I was confused- I'd rather have a lap dance!

robt57 · June 4th, 2008, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reddogbass

Of course- a lap joint of sorts. That makes sense. No wonder I was confused- I'd rather have a lap dance!

I knew stripper dust might come into this somehow.

Buckocaster51 · June 4th, 2008, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robt57

I knew stripper dust might come into this somehow.

Stripper dust and checkerboards!

Spunky99 · June 4th, 2008, 10:56 PM

Not to hijack this thread.....

Where can I get pine lumber suitable for building a Tele in Southern California?
I'm in the Los Angeles area and having a rough time finding a source that will sell less than a full semi truckload delivered from Canada...20K is too steep for me. Home depot has pine in 1" thick here only.

shoretyus · June 4th, 2008, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwells393

Before I bought my jointer I could get straight edges suitable for glueing by clamping a straight edge to the board and running the straight edge along the front edge of my radial saw table with the blade in the rip position. There is probably some way to do something similar with a table saw.

......

Yeah there is. Basically the same thing. Called a running board(??) Take a wide piece of plywood with a straight edge 10" 12" or so. Eight foot long if you have the room. Mount a bench dog ( clamp) to the ply.

The idea is to put a warped piece of lumber overhanging the blade side and set the fence on the other so it hits the straight edge of the plywood. Clamp down board and cut. That makes one side straight.

June 3rd, 2008, 10:13 PM	#1 (permalink)
skunqesh Tele-Meister Join Date: May 2008 Location: West Coast Posts: 171 13 Photos	Question for the DIY Telemakers Greetin's I've been searching high and low for information about joining slab wood, ala guitar bodies, and haven't been able to dig up anything that puts me on the right track. Thought it might be more expedient to ask the DIY experts & artisans here. I've been admiring the builds in some of the threads and believe there's much to be gleaned from the archives. Would/could anyone point me in a good direction - links, old TDPRI threads, books, etc? I'm pretty good with a router and saw, have put together a parts caster or two, but am looking to take it to the next level (just for building bodies). I've got tools, I'm a glutton for punishment, and failure is no obstacle. so I've got that going for me.. specifically joining slabs is on my mind - how it's (best) done for a solid body guitar. Any info/advice is greatly appreciated __________________ Some lives are tragic, some ridiculous. Most are both at once. -Cactus Ed

June 3rd, 2008, 10:53 PM	#3 (permalink)
eryque Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: albany, ny [not chicago] Posts: 6,985 44 Photos	You could skip the jointer altogether and have a local woodshop (cabinet maker, mill, etc) do the joining for you. You'll have to make an awful lot of guitars before buying a decent jointer pays for itself. __________________ my blog: eryque.blogspot.com Updated 9.17.08! Subscribe_____________________

June 3rd, 2008, 11:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
axmaker Tele-Meister Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Oakley, CA Age: 46 Posts: 234 2 Photos	i like using a plate jointer (biscuts). they line up your flat plane too. just have to make sure they are away from the edges you're going to cut the body. also great for attaching to a neck-through body blank like in the photo above. __________________ It is never too late to be on time.... Last edited by axmaker; June 4th, 2008 at 07:01 AM.

June 3rd, 2008, 11:25 PM	#5 (permalink)
skunqesh Tele-Meister Join Date: May 2008 Location: West Coast Posts: 171 13 Photos	thanks! Thanks for the pointers (I'm gonna hold off investing in that 'coping saw' until I've mastered the rusty butter knife technique first ) I was very curious to find out if biscuits were ever used - Axmaker cleared that up (I'd be afraid to not use them). I've been hankering to invest in a jointer, but I wouldn't be surprised if one of my neighbors is hiding one in their garage. cheers! __________________ Some lives are tragic, some ridiculous. Most are both at once. -Cactus Ed

June 4th, 2008, 05:37 AM	#6 (permalink)
Axis29 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Virginia, USA Age: 40 Posts: 1,053 1 Photos	http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocas...d-here-ya.html I know it ain't a Tele, but Ron builds those too. __________________ John F. TDPRI # 1764

June 3rd, 2008, 10:41 PM	#2 (permalink)
boozer Tele-Meister Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Langley B.C. Canada Age: 26 Posts: 138	from my experience, all you need is a jointer, wood glue and clamps. run your mating sides through the jointer to assure that both are flat, then spread you wood glue evenly and clamp with multiple clamps. just make sure that its tight! and give the glue ample time to dry. the key (i think) is to make sure that the mating pieces have a smooth flat connection to each other. and if you dont have a jointer at you disposal than you could get a hand plane with a fence (jointer plane) and do it really old fashioned. at that point it would be best to rough your shape with a coping saw as well ;)

June 4th, 2008, 06:14 AM	#7 (permalink)
jaydawg Tele-Holic Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: York, ME Age: 32 Posts: 504	There really is no need for biscuits. A good flat joint will be stronger than the wood around it. And there is no risk of finding one of those biscuits when cutting out your outside profile. When glueing up a blank I use four clamps. Two to hold the two halfs of the blank together and two to keep the parts lined up in the horizontal view (I use one clamp at each end spanning the joint). Here is another build thread that I put together. I might give you some more ideas. http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocas...ody-build.html __________________ WWLD (What would Leo Do?)

June 4th, 2008, 06:50 AM	#8 (permalink)
Axis29 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Virginia, USA Age: 40 Posts: 1,053 1 Photos	Darn, forgot to make mention about a Joiner... A lot of the time there are woodworking clubs in bigger urban areas. I have Woodcraft store near me and they have a woodworking shop where customers can go and use the tools we can't afford. They have a couple of nice Joiners and thickness planers I will use on occasion when the job is bigger than my tools. You can also try the local Community College. __________________ John F. TDPRI # 1764

June 4th, 2008, 06:55 AM	#9 (permalink)
B Valley Tele-Meister Join Date: May 2008 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 408	Stewart McDonald used to have a pretty extensive line of videos on building, start there. You can start your search there for good template, as well. As far as tools, a jointer is almost indispensible for building bodies. You don't need a large one necessarily. Watch the classifieds and garage sales. A jointer and some good bar clamps are essential. For roughing out a body, you can use just about any kind of saw, but get a band saw, the bigger the better, although you can get by with a small one at first. Then you'll need a router and some good bits, and that's where you should invest in Quality. A router that can't hold an adjustment or doesn't hold a bit in place can be a real pain, and soon you'll have a pile of bodies in your shop that were almost done.

June 4th, 2008, 07:31 AM	#10 (permalink)
Ronkirn Friend of Leo's Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jacksonville, FL Age: 62 Posts: 2,572	Yellow wood worker's glue..... plane them.... glue then together.... do not allow the joints of one slab, align with the joint of the second.... glue it up so it's thicker than 1 3/4" thick... allow it to cure for a week to allow the internal stresses to release... then plane to 1/3/4 and get to making sawdust... we're here to help..... Ron Kirn __________________ Lord, give me a sense of humor. Give me the grace to see a joke, To get some humor out of life, and pass it on to other folks. The only thing necessary for evil to triumph, is for good men to do nothing......

June 4th, 2008, 03:15 PM	#13 (permalink)
boozer Tele-Meister Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Langley B.C. Canada Age: 26 Posts: 138	make no mistake...it can be done, not long ago i thought "i dont think i can" but none the less i did, and now i wish i didn't think about it for six years, it's all about having fun anyways!

June 4th, 2008, 03:18 PM	#14 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 64 Posts: 11,921 101 Photos	Before I bought my jointer I could get straight edges suitable for glueing by clamping a straight edge to the board and running the straight edge along the front edge of my radial saw table with the blade in the rip position. There is probably some way to do something similar with a table saw. ...... __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras.

June 4th, 2008, 06:08 PM	#16 (permalink)
guitarbuilder Tele-Meister Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Hemlock, NY Age: 54 Posts: 316	I alternate the annual rings ( smile up, smile down, smile up) when doing a wide panel. I also put some slash marks on the pieces that direct me to hold the wood against the jointer fence at the same angle so that there is compensation for any angle less than 90 degrees that my cheapo jointer may bend to. in other words each piece of wood gets 2 marks at the glue joint like this /l/ The lower case L is the glue joint. I also use a metal cabinet scraper to remove any nick lines that the blades cut into the jointed edges. Usually 3 bar clamps per body will do it. Don't overclamp it and squeeze out the glue. It really shouldn't take much clamp pressure to get a good glue joint. Marty

June 4th, 2008, 06:55 PM	#17 (permalink)
Nick JD Friend of Leo's Join Date: May 2007 Location: North NSW, Australia Age: 36 Posts: 2,232	What's a jointer? __________________

June 4th, 2008, 09:29 PM	#18 (permalink)
B Valley Tele-Meister Join Date: May 2008 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 408	Since you're in the bay area, go check out Japan Woodworker in Alameda and McBeath Hardwoods in Berkeley. Either place will have alder and poplar in two inch thickness. I prefer a one piece body whenever possible, if you can find the stock. Otherwise two pieces is fine. Poplar would be a good choice for a first project. If cuts and routes well, unlike pine which will give you fits with anything less than very good quality tools. Both places also have some fine woodworking equipment to drool over.

June 4th, 2008, 10:56 PM	#22 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 347	Not to hijack this thread..... Where can I get pine lumber suitable for building a Tele in Southern California? I'm in the Los Angeles area and having a rough time finding a source that will sell less than a full semi truckload delivered from Canada...20K is too steep for me. Home depot has pine in 1" thick here only.

June 6th, 2008, 12:42 AM	#24 (permalink)
skunqesh Tele-Meister Join Date: May 2008 Location: West Coast Posts: 171 13 Photos