Tip when repainting MIM bodies!!!

Cole · April 25th, 2008, 02:58 PM

After I stripped the polyester finish off my MIM tele body down to the bare wood, I noticed that it consisted of 8 alder laminations that makes up the body. Then there 1 piece paper thin alder (cosmetic) laminated to the top & back for 'burst or see through finishes. Clever.

I'm doing a Fiesta Red ReRanch finish on the body. So I started with the white primer and dry sanded with #600 paper before shooting the color coat. No problem. Then I began spraying the color coat, which is turning out great. Before I shot the last color coat application on I wet sanded the first. Problem... the water delaminated the cosmetic skin around some of the holes that were drilled through the skin. Duh...

Guess what kids? Uncle Cole didn't think about the possibility of the water sneaking under the top & bottom body lamination through the unsealed & unprotected screw holes and ferrule holes. I had one pickguard screw hole delam and 2 ferrule holes delam pretty good to the point where you can see the skin raised up off the body.

Now I'll have to hypodermic some glue in there... I should had known better! But it needs to flatten out so I don't have any more color coat sand throughs. Oh did I mention sand throughs yet? Sand throughs on a color coat with an empty can of color coat... I hate when that happens!

Tip: Apply some sealer into all the holes of your freshly stripped (down to the wood) MIM body BEFORE you start your new paint job and/or wet sand any new paint surfaces!

ajgus · April 25th, 2008, 03:01 PM

Thanks for the tip. Sorry you had to learn it the hard way.

jwells393 · April 25th, 2008, 03:12 PM

Here's another tip. If you're planning a solid color don't strip the polyester finish. Sand the body with 320 paper and spray with one of the new Krylon cans.

Here's another tip. Don't sand your color coats.

ajgus · April 25th, 2008, 03:29 PM

Jack, when you say don't sand your color coats, do you mean in between coats? What if you need to knock down some orange peel or uneven spots?

jwells393 · April 25th, 2008, 03:39 PM

I'm not bragging here but I don't get a lot of orange peel in the color coat. Because of my advance age, I have more experience than some but I think the main reason is because I only spray enough color to get a nice uniform color. Your color coat doesn't have to be glossy. I also don't sand between clear coats. I only sand out dust nibs and pet hairs.

Cole · April 25th, 2008, 03:43 PM

jwells... you are absolutely right... shoulda/coulda... after all it's only MIM. The real reason I stripped it down to the wood was to see if it improved tone & sustain at all. I recorded a couple of songs with it already so I'll have something to compare it to when done. I did string it back up and played it while I was waiting for the paint. It seemed to be louder and had more sustain & vibrancy overall.

Most of my luthier pals are all convinced polyester and poly-u applications are real robbers of tone and sustain when it comes to acoustical physics. I never empirically proved that to be true... but I read a lot and it feels right...

What do I know? I won't be sanding color coats anytime soon either!

April 25th, 2008, 02:58 PM	#1 (permalink)
Cole Tele-Meister Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville KY Age: 57 Posts: 215	Tip when repainting MIM bodies!!! After I stripped the polyester finish off my MIM tele body down to the bare wood, I noticed that it consisted of 8 alder laminations that makes up the body. Then there 1 piece paper thin alder (cosmetic) laminated to the top & back for 'burst or see through finishes. Clever. I'm doing a Fiesta Red ReRanch finish on the body. So I started with the white primer and dry sanded with #600 paper before shooting the color coat. No problem. Then I began spraying the color coat, which is turning out great. Before I shot the last color coat application on I wet sanded the first. Problem... the water delaminated the cosmetic skin around some of the holes that were drilled through the skin. Duh... Guess what kids? Uncle Cole didn't think about the possibility of the water sneaking under the top & bottom body lamination through the unsealed & unprotected screw holes and ferrule holes. I had one pickguard screw hole delam and 2 ferrule holes delam pretty good to the point where you can see the skin raised up off the body. Now I'll have to hypodermic some glue in there... I should had known better! But it needs to flatten out so I don't have any more color coat sand throughs. Oh did I mention sand throughs yet? Sand throughs on a color coat with an empty can of color coat... I hate when that happens! Tip: Apply some sealer into all the holes of your freshly stripped (down to the wood) MIM body BEFORE you start your new paint job and/or wet sand any new paint surfaces! __________________ ~Cole Cole's website Cole's MySpace "The only currency we have is influential communication."

April 25th, 2008, 03:01 PM	#2 (permalink)
ajgus Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: chicago Posts: 2,332	Thanks for the tip. Sorry you had to learn it the hard way. __________________ "If you don't have a toothbrush & you don't have a Telecaster...you're in trouble"- Jim Weider

April 25th, 2008, 03:12 PM	#3 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 64 Posts: 12,246 101 Photos	Here's another tip. If you're planning a solid color don't strip the polyester finish. Sand the body with 320 paper and spray with one of the new Krylon cans. Here's another tip. Don't sand your color coats. __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras.

April 25th, 2008, 03:29 PM	#4 (permalink)
ajgus Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: chicago Posts: 2,332	Jack, when you say don't sand your color coats, do you mean in between coats? What if you need to knock down some orange peel or uneven spots? __________________ "If you don't have a toothbrush & you don't have a Telecaster...you're in trouble"- Jim Weider

April 25th, 2008, 03:39 PM	#5 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 64 Posts: 12,246 101 Photos	I'm not bragging here but I don't get a lot of orange peel in the color coat. Because of my advance age, I have more experience than some but I think the main reason is because I only spray enough color to get a nice uniform color. Your color coat doesn't have to be glossy. I also don't sand between clear coats. I only sand out dust nibs and pet hairs. __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras.

April 25th, 2008, 03:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
Cole Tele-Meister Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville KY Age: 57 Posts: 215	jwells... you are absolutely right... shoulda/coulda... after all it's only MIM. The real reason I stripped it down to the wood was to see if it improved tone & sustain at all. I recorded a couple of songs with it already so I'll have something to compare it to when done. I did string it back up and played it while I was waiting for the paint. It seemed to be louder and had more sustain & vibrancy overall. Most of my luthier pals are all convinced polyester and poly-u applications are real robbers of tone and sustain when it comes to acoustical physics. I never empirically proved that to be true... but I read a lot and it feels right... What do I know? I won't be sanding color coats anytime soon either! __________________ ~Cole Cole's website Cole's MySpace "The only currency we have is influential communication."