Fuschia SparkleCaster build Thread, inspired by Buckocaster - Page 2

Buckocaster51 · March 14th, 2008, 06:39 AM

The aluminum tape on the bearing worked for me...but it is a pain...the tape tends to heat up...making the glue soft...then the tape can fall off. You definitely have to go slow...taking pauses to let things cool down.

Ron Kirn hipped me to another way to modify the size of those guide bearings. You can sort of read about it here.

Cutting the tubing was a pain...but I was very happy with the results.

To "round over" the binding, I take a utility knife blade and hold it at a 45° angle and chamfer the edge of the binding. You could do essentially the same thing with sandpaper. I don't know if there is enough binding there to actually attack it with a round over bit.

Isn't this fun? Learning something new every day.

I will be waiting to see how your plan for leaving the binding stand a bit proud of the surface and then filling it in with the flake/goop mix works.

Have fun.

Steve Dikkers
aka Buckocaster51

Arlo · March 14th, 2008, 07:15 AM

Steve, I know you have been here before. I have tried this method of dusting the sparkles on wet paint. It looks great but it is a monster to get the paint thick enough so sanding doesn't become a sparkle spoiler.

The best method I have found so far and it still is goopy but seems to retain the sparkle best is mixing the sparkles into clear. And then spraying the mixture directly on the guitar. I also use a base coat of black as it seems to make the sparkles really well, sparkle.

But this is no easy task painting a sparkle caster folks. Steve is probably the leading expert around these parts. I am still debating what to do with my silver Stratocaster I painted last year. It looks great but it is bumpy in some areas. I am thinking about taking it to my friends body shop for a glossy coat and polish. Or just living with the bumps??

reddogbass · March 14th, 2008, 09:09 AM

Spunky-

If it were me I'd start sanding the tops off the bumps right about now. Not so much as to get into the sparkle, but enough to reduce the crater size. Then sand some more about every six coats. This way you'll have a better idea just how many more clear coats are needed for complete smoothness. Otherwise it's a guess. May save paint and time, and the thinner the actual film thickness- the more durable the finish.

Buckocaster51 · March 14th, 2008, 10:24 AM

Last night I knocked down some of the lumps with a 3M green scuff pad.

Seems to have worked.

Arlo...I agree that spraying those flakes on in clear seems to be the best solution. When I started my last batch of headstocks, it was just too cold in the "paint booth" to fire up the spray rig.

I have 3 bodies to do in Champagne. I may spray two and sift/sieve the other one...just to find out what the difference is in the two processes.

The Emeraldcaster is sifted...the Rubycasters are sprayed...I can't really tell the difference in how the flake looks.

But here is something I have noticed...after about 6 months of doing something with something that has flake on it nearly every day...whenever I close my eyes...I see little sparkles being reflected off of little flakes!

Sort of unnerving!

Arlo · March 14th, 2008, 10:45 AM

I kinda did the knock down thing on my silver sparkle (dusted) Tele but it dulled the sparkles. I was a little bummed cause I had put like 6 coats of clear poly on that thing.

My Strat has sat all winter long hardening up so I may attempt it again. I really like the flake sparkle it has now so I am a little leery of it. You have to wonder how guys like Tony who did Mojo's flame sparkle get that 10 foot deep clear over them huge sparkles.

Steve the sparkle in your eyes takes on a whole new meaning now!

Spunky99 · March 14th, 2008, 11:20 AM

Steve,

I think I bought the wrong size rabbit bit. The one in your photos looks like it is about 3/4" in diameter and mine is twice that. So I have this really huge bearing and the cut depth is still about 3/8". That means I have to add more than 1/4" of shim on that bearing. Maybe I'll sneak over to Rockler for a smaller bit......

I already have 6 bearings in various sizes.
I want to get the binding on this weekend...I also have to find the fiberglass tape...Couldn't find it at BigBox.

I like the 45 angle scrape idea for the binding and that's just what I'll do.

reddogbass,

I'll put 4 more coats of clear before I hit it with the sandpaper. There are 2 small spots where the flake was really tall and it is barely covered. I don't want to ruin the project by touching the flake with sandpaper. Steve's green 3m scuff pad idea sounds OK. I can try that tonight before my next coat of clear.

Spunky99 · March 14th, 2008, 02:54 PM

I snuck over to Rockler at lunch and guess what......the rabbit bit there is exactly the same size diameter as mine.
They told me to go to Stewmac for the whole dremel router setup.

I bought the 1/2" diameter flush trimmer bit as I think I have a smaller bearing and can do the brass tubing ring thing or a lot less aluminum tape than with the bigger bit.
It's a learning process and thats the fun of it. I have to make what I can get work and that takes imagination. No way am I gonna plunk down $86.65 for the router bit set or $100.94 for the precision router setup for my dremel at stewmac. I'm stubborn that way sometimes. Especially since I just bought the new Porter Cable router

If I have to, I'll cut the binding channel by hand. I saw the one Steve used on the headstock and although it'll take time, it is an option.

milkshape · March 14th, 2008, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spunky99

I ordered the sparkles from Kustom and they were at my home 3 days later. No hassle and exactly as expected.
The bigger flakes have a bigger sparkle and I'm willing to deal with the bumpies. I have 20 coats on the headstock and expect another 20 before I sand. With 2 coats a day, that's not that bad!

<snip>

The wife is starting to look at me sideways with all the packages coming in every day.....yikes....the guitar case came in today.....

Good to know Kustom can be relied on, thanks. Wow, 40+ coats, the body is gonna require massive patience. G'luck with the CFO

jwsamuel · March 14th, 2008, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spunky99

The wife is starting to look at me sideways with all the packages coming in every day.....yikes....the guitar case came in today.....

You sure she isn't looking that way because of the sparkles????

Jim

Spunky99 · March 15th, 2008, 12:37 AM

Life is a process..2 more coats tonight after the 3m scratch pad.

I cried several times during the movie August Rush...

The Fuschia Tele will bear my patience and skill in the end. And there will be no compromise in quality.
[QUOTEY]ou sure she isn't looking that way because of the sparkles????[/quote]

There are sparkles everywhere......lol

Nick JD · March 15th, 2008, 01:02 AM

Twenty coats!

I've done sparkles on a surfboard with one coat! Sanded and polished it the next day. You guys are all nuts!

Why don't you coat the sparkles with a layer of resin??

This guitar has a polyester resin finish...

Tape the edge:

Pour over the resin and spread it out with a brush:

Alls you gotta do is paint on (with a brush) a very thin layer of resin, sprinkle the sparkles, wait an hour for it to cure (not dry - you can control the time) and then pour on a 1/16th inch thick layer, then spread it out.

Most resins are thixotropic, which means if you push them hard when they are liquid they act like water, but when you leave them alone, they act like cold honey. It's this thixotropic thang that lets you do a very thick layer with gravity making it lay completely flat.

Sand it the next day!

I'm gonna have to do a bloody sparklecaster now!!

Spunky99 · March 15th, 2008, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Most resins are thixotropic, which means if you push them hard when they are liquid they act like water, but when you leave them alone, they act like cold honey.

Been there, done that. Exotherming polyester resin makes it thick as water but it hardens in a snap and then gets hotter than heck and has a slight amber tint.
The end result is faster but will be about 1/8" thick. I think the total thickness for the method I'm using will be about 1/16" total.

I got busy today and routed the body. The smallest bearing that came in the larger rabbit bit set was a perfect match for the flush edge router bit. No adjustment necessary except for the vertical depth adjustment.
Here are all the pieces gathered. BTW: The Mitutoyo dial calipers are 34 years old and are like new....

Here is the width of the binding. It is a little rough on the edges and I'll make adjustment for the depth of cut to sand the sides flat.

Thin stuff....a little skinnier than specified.

Spunky99 · March 15th, 2008, 06:03 PM

Clamped to the table and ready for routing.

After routing and the base sealer coat of CA applied.

Front and back are routed and ready for the binding. Wife got into the act...not my hand!

Buckocaster51 · March 15th, 2008, 06:13 PM

Looks good.

Can't wait to see more.

Spunky99 · March 15th, 2008, 09:03 PM

The binding is on....
The beast is alive!

I used a heat gun to make the sharp corners and it worked like magic.

Spunky99 · March 15th, 2008, 09:04 PM

taped the back and painted it red.
Sparkles next!

Nick JD · March 15th, 2008, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spunky99

Been there, done that. Exotherming polyester resin makes it thick as water but it hardens in a snap and then gets hotter than heck and has a slight amber tint.
The end result is faster but will be about 1/8" thick. I think the total thickness for the method I'm using will be about 1/16" total.

You might have used laminating resin, which does have a brown tint - surfboard polyester is ever so slightly blue tinted and doesn't go brown at all. Epoxy does though! It only gets hot if you put too much catalyst in. At 1% catalyst it's barely above ambient. Best of all it doesn't shrink and have the sparkles raise and wreck the finish, which is a problem with this method.

But most of the joy is in the journey, not the destination!

Looking great - love that MOP binding.

Spunky99 · March 15th, 2008, 09:49 PM

We have sparkles!

Mark-00255 · March 15th, 2008, 11:20 PM

Looks like it's going to be a looker, spunky!

I just played one of the newish Fender Sonoran acoustics today - a couple of the colors have pearloid binding as well, and it looks great! Here's wishing you some luck with the sparkles and clear process!

Spunky99 · March 16th, 2008, 12:20 AM

It's starting to be exactly what I had in mind.

Spunky99 · March 16th, 2008, 12:34 AM

I can work with the sparkles later. It is most important to get the sparkles captured.

Spunky99 · March 16th, 2008, 12:43 AM

Quote:

You might have used laminating resin, which does have a brown tint - surfboard polyester is ever so slightly blue tinted and doesn't go brown at all. Epoxy does though! It only gets hot if you put too much catalyst in. At 1% catalyst it's barely above ambient. Best of all it doesn't shrink and have the sparkles raise and wreck the finish, which is a problem with this meth

I'm a surfer from Redondo Beach CA who spent his military service in Hawaii and has built many boards plus a special methos for grinding wheels...My guitar will not be finished in resin...!

BarnesTO · March 16th, 2008, 01:16 AM

Not to hijack the thread, but how did you like it, as far as $300 guitars go? Every time I see a pic of one, I want one in Shoreline Gold, but I haven't seen one in the flesh, let alone played one....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark-00255

March 14th, 2008, 06:39 AM	#41 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 56 Posts: 4,296 1 Photos	The aluminum tape on the bearing worked for me...but it is a pain...the tape tends to heat up...making the glue soft...then the tape can fall off. You definitely have to go slow...taking pauses to let things cool down. Ron Kirn hipped me to another way to modify the size of those guide bearings. You can sort of read about it here. Cutting the tubing was a pain...but I was very happy with the results. To "round over" the binding, I take a utility knife blade and hold it at a 45° angle and chamfer the edge of the binding. You could do essentially the same thing with sandpaper. I don't know if there is enough binding there to actually attack it with a round over bit. Isn't this fun? Learning something new every day. I will be waiting to see how your plan for leaving the binding stand a bit proud of the surface and then filling it in with the flake/goop mix works. Have fun. Steve Dikkers aka Buckocaster51 __________________ "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

March 14th, 2008, 07:15 AM	#42 (permalink)
Arlo Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Maine [in a van down by the river] Age: 49 Posts: 2,132	Steve, I know you have been here before. I have tried this method of dusting the sparkles on wet paint. It looks great but it is a monster to get the paint thick enough so sanding doesn't become a sparkle spoiler. The best method I have found so far and it still is goopy but seems to retain the sparkle best is mixing the sparkles into clear. And then spraying the mixture directly on the guitar. I also use a base coat of black as it seems to make the sparkles really well, sparkle. But this is no easy task painting a sparkle caster folks. Steve is probably the leading expert around these parts. I am still debating what to do with my silver Stratocaster I painted last year. It looks great but it is bumpy in some areas. I am thinking about taking it to my friends body shop for a glossy coat and polish. Or just living with the bumps?? __________________ My music? It is free for my friends.

March 14th, 2008, 10:24 AM	#44 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 56 Posts: 4,296 1 Photos	Last night I knocked down some of the lumps with a 3M green scuff pad. Seems to have worked. Arlo...I agree that spraying those flakes on in clear seems to be the best solution. When I started my last batch of headstocks, it was just too cold in the "paint booth" to fire up the spray rig. I have 3 bodies to do in Champagne. I may spray two and sift/sieve the other one...just to find out what the difference is in the two processes. The Emeraldcaster is sifted...the Rubycasters are sprayed...I can't really tell the difference in how the flake looks. But here is something I have noticed...after about 6 months of doing something with something that has flake on it nearly every day...whenever I close my eyes...I see little sparkles being reflected off of little flakes! Sort of unnerving! __________________ "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

March 14th, 2008, 10:45 AM	#45 (permalink)
Arlo Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Maine [in a van down by the river] Age: 49 Posts: 2,132	I kinda did the knock down thing on my silver sparkle (dusted) Tele but it dulled the sparkles. I was a little bummed cause I had put like 6 coats of clear poly on that thing. My Strat has sat all winter long hardening up so I may attempt it again. I really like the flake sparkle it has now so I am a little leery of it. You have to wonder how guys like Tony who did Mojo's flame sparkle get that 10 foot deep clear over them huge sparkles. Steve the sparkle in your eyes takes on a whole new meaning now! __________________ My music? It is free for my friends.

March 15th, 2008, 01:02 AM	#51 (permalink)
Nick JD Tele-Afflicted Join Date: May 2007 Location: North NSW, Australia Age: 35 Posts: 1,629	Twenty coats! I've done sparkles on a surfboard with one coat! Sanded and polished it the next day. You guys are all nuts! Why don't you coat the sparkles with a layer of resin?? This guitar has a polyester resin finish... Tape the edge: Pour over the resin and spread it out with a brush: Alls you gotta do is paint on (with a brush) a very thin layer of resin, sprinkle the sparkles, wait an hour for it to cure (not dry - you can control the time) and then pour on a 1/16th inch thick layer, then spread it out. Most resins are thixotropic, which means if you push them hard when they are liquid they act like water, but when you leave them alone, they act like cold honey. It's this thixotropic thang that lets you do a very thick layer with gravity making it lay completely flat. Sand it the next day! I'm gonna have to do a bloody sparklecaster now!! __________________ It was such a lovely day I thought it a pity to get up. W. Somerset Maugham

March 14th, 2008, 09:09 AM	#43 (permalink)
reddogbass Tele-Holic Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Portland, Oregon Age: 61 Posts: 532 5 Photos	Spunky- If it were me I'd start sanding the tops off the bumps right about now. Not so much as to get into the sparkle, but enough to reduce the crater size. Then sand some more about every six coats. This way you'll have a better idea just how many more clear coats are needed for complete smoothness. Otherwise it's a guess. May save paint and time, and the thinner the actual film thickness- the more durable the finish.

March 14th, 2008, 11:20 AM	#46 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	Steve, I think I bought the wrong size rabbit bit. The one in your photos looks like it is about 3/4" in diameter and mine is twice that. So I have this really huge bearing and the cut depth is still about 3/8". That means I have to add more than 1/4" of shim on that bearing. Maybe I'll sneak over to Rockler for a smaller bit...... I already have 6 bearings in various sizes. I want to get the binding on this weekend...I also have to find the fiberglass tape...Couldn't find it at BigBox. I like the 45 angle scrape idea for the binding and that's just what I'll do. reddogbass, I'll put 4 more coats of clear before I hit it with the sandpaper. There are 2 small spots where the flake was really tall and it is barely covered. I don't want to ruin the project by touching the flake with sandpaper. Steve's green 3m scuff pad idea sounds OK. I can try that tonight before my next coat of clear.

March 14th, 2008, 02:54 PM	#47 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	I snuck over to Rockler at lunch and guess what......the rabbit bit there is exactly the same size diameter as mine. They told me to go to Stewmac for the whole dremel router setup. I bought the 1/2" diameter flush trimmer bit as I think I have a smaller bearing and can do the brass tubing ring thing or a lot less aluminum tape than with the bigger bit. It's a learning process and thats the fun of it. I have to make what I can get work and that takes imagination. No way am I gonna plunk down $86.65 for the router bit set or $100.94 for the precision router setup for my dremel at stewmac. I'm stubborn that way sometimes. Especially since I just bought the new Porter Cable router If I have to, I'll cut the binding channel by hand. I saw the one Steve used on the headstock and although it'll take time, it is an option.

March 15th, 2008, 12:37 AM	#50 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	Life is a process..2 more coats tonight after the 3m scratch pad. I cried several times during the movie August Rush... The Fuschia Tele will bear my patience and skill in the end. And there will be no compromise in quality. [QUOTEY]ou sure she isn't looking that way because of the sparkles????[/quote] There are sparkles everywhere......lol

March 15th, 2008, 06:03 PM	#53 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	Clamped to the table and ready for routing. After routing and the base sealer coat of CA applied. Front and back are routed and ready for the binding. Wife got into the act...not my hand!

March 15th, 2008, 06:13 PM	#54 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 56 Posts: 4,296 1 Photos	Looks good. Can't wait to see more. __________________ "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

March 15th, 2008, 09:03 PM	#55 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	The binding is on.... The beast is alive! I used a heat gun to make the sharp corners and it worked like magic.

March 15th, 2008, 09:04 PM	#56 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	taped the back and painted it red. Sparkles next!

March 15th, 2008, 09:49 PM	#58 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	We have sparkles!

March 15th, 2008, 11:20 PM	#59 (permalink)
Mark-00255 Tele-Meister Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Olympia, WA Age: 50 Posts: 146	Looks like it's going to be a looker, spunky! I just played one of the newish Fender Sonoran acoustics today - a couple of the colors have pearloid binding as well, and it looks great! Here's wishing you some luck with the sparkles and clear process! __________________ Mark-00255 Red=0; Green=0; Blue=255: All Blues!

March 16th, 2008, 12:20 AM	#60 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	It's starting to be exactly what I had in mind.

March 16th, 2008, 12:34 AM	#61 (permalink)
Spunky99 Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Redondo beach Age: 54 Posts: 270	I can work with the sparkles later. It is most important to get the sparkles captured.