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#1 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Major Wreck
Well I had my first "MAJOR" wreck today
Really not sure what happened but what a mess I had my guitar body all primed and painted,and it has been drying for 3 days There were a couple dust spots that I was not worried about because I was sure they would wetsand out and other than that it looked really good. I checked it tonight to see if it was dry and made a terrible discovery The paint was just like,I don't know,hard jello? It was not set up at all. All I can think that went wrong was that the primer I used was a cheap no-name primer,must not have been compatable with the paint I used(Rustolium,couldn't find anything else in the color I needed at the time) Needless to say I have just spent the last 2 hrs stripping it back down to the wood and applying another coat of grain filler to get it nice and level again Well live and learn,no more no-name primer The worst part is that I already have the binding installed so it's going to be a real pain from here on
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Before throwing it out,make sure it's not 16x13x1.75
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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ouch. Sorry to hear about your wreck.
I didn't know that people actually used primer on wood. I used to have a body shop, and primer was used as a pre paint filler/leveler for metal and fiberglass, but for a guitar body? I thought that the grain filler did to wood, what primer did for metal/fiberglass. I would think that primer would dampen the sound of the wood a bit. Oh well, I learned something new today too. Hope it works out for you. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
Oh well,more practice
__________________
Before throwing it out,make sure it's not 16x13x1.75
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#4 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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Did by chance you wiped the guitar down with a chemical before you shot the paint? Also what was the temp. when you ( shot/dried) the body. Those can contribute to the problem. I always use a filler primer after grain filler, it helps level out the surface.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Doctor of Teleocity
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That's not good.
Not good at all. Try some of that Rustoleum on bare wood and see if it sets up. Had you shot any lacquer before you noticed the gumbo? I know it's frustrating to have things go south...try to learn something from it and move on... A good thing about paint problems is that they can almost always be fixed/cured with a little acetone.
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"If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "She's not only merely dead, she's really most sincerely dead." - The Munchkin Coroner |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
__________________
Before throwing it out,make sure it's not 16x13x1.75
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#7 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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I've used Rust-O-Leum over a factory poly finish without any problems. I did find that it was much slower drying than Krylon. I was told by Krylon customer service that Krylon was acrylic lacquer. Going by this picture, Rust-0-Leum appears to be enamel. I would avoid using it if there was anything close to the color I wanted in the Krylon palette.
...... I wouldn't wipe the down with paint thinner before spraying. Use naptha instead and make sure it has evaporated completely. If you just want to remove dust, get yourself some tack cloths ............ available in the paint department of any hardware store.
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. Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" I'm just not cool enough to be a Mac person. I'm a PC and Windows 7 was my idea. |
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