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Old July 25th, 2007, 01:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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cure time for Krylon Interior/Exterior paint?

For those that have used Krylon, what's the cure time? I know it says 12 minutes to dry and ready to handle in 1 hour, but I want to know the safe time to allow for full curing of the paint before I sand w/ 600 grit to smooth it all out.

I finished up my Esquire body on Sunday and it's been curing in the utility room since then (75 degrees, 35-40 percent humidity).

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Old July 25th, 2007, 02:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've used Krylon but I've used it enough to not get orange peel so I don't sand my color coats. If it doesn't really need sanding don't do it. I usually don't sand at all until I get all my clear coats on.......... just a little sandpaper on a fingertip to remove pet hairs. If you're going to sand the Krylon and are unsure, you could spray some on scrap and try it after a few hours.

Ole Buckocaster sands his Krylon, you might check one of his build threads.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwells393 View Post
I've used Krylon but I've used it enough to not get orange peel so I don't sand my color coats. If it doesn't really need sanding don't do it. I usually don't sand at all until I get all my clear coats on.......... just a little sandpaper on a fingertip to remove pet hairs. If you're going to sand the Krylon and are unsure, you could spray some on scrap and try it after a few hours.

Ole Buckocaster sands his Krylon, you might check one of his build threads.
I don't plan on using any clear coat over top of this Krylon ("almond" color). There are a few areas that are shinier than others so I want to make sure it's uniform.

This is the body that I had to strip due to what I now believe to be a grain filler issue. After it had set for a day or so, it sanded quite well with 320 followed up by 600. I actually couldn't even sand it back off because it was so hard, so I had to use a stripper to do it.

So I may be set already, since it's been 3 days since I misted on the last coat.

The game plan is lightly sand w/ 320 to even the shiny spots out (i.e. make everything matte), then use 600 grit, followed by a soft t-shirt.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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BTW, what is orange peel?
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've used a ton of krylon on many guitars. I usually put a primer on first, then spray the color or colors (depending on the design). I spray just enough to get a good uniform coverage. I usually wait 30 minutes between coats. And I never sand until after I have clear-coated. After the color I usually apply between 20-30 coats of clear. Then I wait AT LEAST 30 DAYS (the longer you can wait the better the finish) for the paint to CURE... otherwise you will have a very SOFT finish that will Mar easily. After the waiting period, I wet sand starting with 400 grit, then 800 - then 1000 - then 1500... and then start buffing with rubbing compound. Even though you're not applying clear, I would stil wait for a good month till the paint cures well before I'd start the sanding-buffing process... just my 2 cents.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Orange peel is what the paint on the guitar usually looks like before any sanding is done. In other words... paint rarely lies flat, you will for the most have pits in the paint or orange peel as if the guitar surface was made from the peel of an orange.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've used a ton of krylon on many guitars. I usually put a primer on first, then spray the color or colors (depending on the design). I spray just enough to get a good uniform coverage. I usually wait 30 minutes between coats. And I never sand until after I have clear-coated. After the color I usually apply between 20-30 coats of clear. Then I wait AT LEAST 30 DAYS (the longer you can wait the better the finish) for the paint to CURE... otherwise you will have a very SOFT finish that will Mar easily. After the waiting period, I wet sand starting with 400 grit, then 800 - then 1000 - then 1500... and then start buffing with rubbing compound. Even though you're not applying clear, I would stil wait for a good month till the paint cures well before I'd start the sanding-buffing process... just my 2 cents.

So you wait 30 days for the paint to cure, THEN apply clear coats, or did you mean that you wait 30 days after applying the clear coats?

A month for Krylon paint to fully cure? Really? I was thinking a week or two, but a month-- dang!

I had pretty good luck w/ the sanding part of it after only a few days the first go around (if only I hadn't rushed the grain filler underneath it!)

I'll probably only go up to 600 grit, then bust out a soft t-shirt, and maybe some furniture wax afterwards. I'm really going for a thin, non-traditional (for guitars anyway) type of finish so that the body wood resonates better.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 04:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You need to reread his post. He didn't say wait 30 days to sand the Krylon. He said 30 days before he sands the clear coat. He doesn't sand the Krylon.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 04:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You need to reread his post. He didn't say wait 30 days to sand the Krylon. He said 30 days before he sands the clear coat. He doesn't sand the Krylon.
I was confused because it said "for the paint to CURE..." - when I think "paint" I think of the color coat, not the clear coat.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 05:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Orange peel is that pebbly texture when you are applying, generally, too little paint or too far a distance for the painting conditions.
Alway buy an extra can and practice your spraying techniques ahead of time, so the process is second nature and you can concentrate of what result you're getting when it is gametime. There's a sweet spot between orange peel and runs that you need to hone in on, so practice practice beforehand and you will save yourself big blocks of time later with the repairs you don't have to wait through.
Sanding between coats is old technology, left over from when our paint guns were junk, the paint was junk, and some guys got better results with a steady hand and a brush. If you use quality paint and decent technique, the sanding in between isn't necessary, and it can knock you back. The thing that shows through clear coats is: 1) Hair, usually pet hair and 2) Sanding marks from often unnecessary efforts to smooth the finish. I guarontee 320 sanding marks will show when you clearcoat over krylon; nitro might forgive you 320, not krylon.

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Old July 25th, 2007, 07:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If you truly want that mirror factory finish then go all up to very fine grit. The finner the grit the less the scratchs show. I sometimes use buffing compound when I get to the 1500-2000 stage. Then finish the polishing with rubbing compund and a soft rag. And it really does take a while for paint to cure. Some articles I have read suggest that if you can WAIT let the body set for a year... it's claimed that the major guitar makers usually wait the same amount of time before working on the finish. But then they probably do 100 or more a day and always have something to work on. Where as the once in a while builder finds it REALLY difficult to wait even a few weeks before working the finish. But do yourself a favor and do wait... the results will last longer. again just my 2 cents.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 08:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If you truly want that mirror factory finish then go all up to very fine grit. The finner the grit the less the scratchs show. I sometimes use buffing compound when I get to the 1500-2000 stage. Then finish the polishing with rubbing compund and a soft rag. And it really does take a while for paint to cure. Some articles I have read suggest that if you can WAIT let the body set for a year... it's claimed that the major guitar makers usually wait the same amount of time before working on the finish. But then they probably do 100 or more a day and always have something to work on. Where as the once in a while builder finds it REALLY difficult to wait even a few weeks before working the finish. But do yourself a favor and do wait... the results will last longer. again just my 2 cents.
Well, by the time I get to work on it this weekend, it will be a week since the paint on the face of the body was applied. And I still need to apply the finish to the neck, order a pickup, finish relic'ing the hardware. So I'll do all that stuff first (should be another 2 weeks before I take care of all of it w/ my current work schedule). Then I'll wait another and start the final 320/600/800/t-shirt/polishing compound/t-shirt process.

My goal on this guitar is to have something that looks and feels broken in, but not beaten up. So I don't need to have the finish looking perfectly glossy and smooth. And if the finish starts wearing 6 months to a year in, I won't mind-- I'll consider it my very own Highway 1 Esquire!
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Old July 26th, 2007, 04:34 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Orange Peel?



See how the reflections in this finish look like an "orangel peel"?

That be it!

It is usually caused by putting too much paint on too fast...sort of the opposite of putting paint on "dry."

Of course, what we all "shoot" for is somewhere in between.

I like to knock that orange peel in the color coat down before I apply the clear.

Not everybody is on the same page of that book. That is okay.

What really counts is that by the time we are done applying coatings. we have a finish that we can smooth out and buff up.

The destination, not the journey, is the important thing.

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Old July 26th, 2007, 07:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ahhh, I've gotten that orange peel on a guitar finish before (the windsor chair tele project that I abandoned).

I won't have to worry about that w/ this body-- the paint's already on, I just need to let it cure now.

The finish on the neck, which will be Minwax spray PolyU is what I'll have to be careful with as far as orange peel goes.
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Old July 29th, 2007, 01:39 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The orange peel in Jack's pics are from, as he described, to much paint going on too quickly. It creates problem with flashing and shrinking evenly- hence the craters.

About the spray on MinWax poly- it's a lot more susceptible (at least in my experience) to orange peel than either enamels or lacquers in an aerosol. Then when it's cured enough so you can color sand, it's a lot tougher to smooth out. I'd use the rub-on if you must have poly. I've used a fair amount of the rub-on gloss on different projects, and it works out well, and buffs to a high gloss. In the long run I like a lacquer finished neck better.
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