Bigsby + LSR Rollernut

[JohnnyCrash]

I'm putting together yet another Partscaster Esquire, this time with a Bigsby.

Since the bigsby doesn't use 3 compensated saddles, I won't be needing an Earvana compensated nut...

Any thoughts on using a LSR Rollernut with a Bigsby on an Esquire?

The path of least resistance and all :)

[jeffhigh]

More important to have free movement at the bridge, what are you using there?
I just used a graphite nut and string trees on my bigsby tele, works fine without the bulk of a roller nut.

[JohnnyCrash]

It'll be a brand new Bigsby kit for Telecasters.

I've heard a lot of complaints about those "rocking" bridges.

Folks keep looking for non-moving Tune-O-Matic type bridges...

This Bigsby install is going to make me nervous :)

[teleman53]

i put a bigsby on a squier tele with a plastic nut and no problems. i think a roller nut would be unneccessary. of course i have locking tuners too...

[JohnnyCrash]

Originally Posted by teleman53

i put a bigsby on a squier tele with a plastic nut and no problems. i think a roller nut would be unneccessary. of course i have locking tuners too...

Cool.

I have a normal nut on my Gibson ES-135 I put a Bigsby on, I was just sorta seeing if there were any thoughts with these two items (Bigsby and Rollernut).

I'll probably just go with my normal Earvana or even bone on this Partscaster.

[sean79]

Originally Posted by JohnnyCrash

It'll be a brand new Bigsby kit for Telecasters.

I've heard a lot of complaints about those "rocking" bridges.

Folks keep looking for non-moving Tune-O-Matic type bridges...

This Bigsby install is going to make me nervous :)

This BRIDGE was suggested in another thread. Don't know if the spacing or the radius will work for your project -- don't really know anything about it at all -- just ran across it.

[fezz parka]

You can use a regular box bridge and nut. If the nut is cut well, it won't bind. To insure smooth travel over the bridge saddles,just put a little Chapstick on there.

I posted this in your Rockabilly thread:

For the B5, you have to shim the neck to increase the height of the saddles. I used a heavy pick under the heel. I also used a rat tail file to make small notches in the back of the bridgeplate to make sure there was no string contact on the lip. As it turns out, I didn't have to do that, as the saddles are high enough to avoid the contact with the lip. I would also use a regular B5 instead of a Fender logo B5. The logo'd one is a little longer,and ends up being too close to the back of the bridgeplate.

[JohnnyCrash]

Thanks fezz, I may actually go the route you did...

[normantrophy]

My Phantom has a bridge with its B5 knockoff Bigsby which looks very much like that of a Mustang or a Jaguar/Jazzmaster, only it doesn't rock, it sits atop the same kind of studs-and-inserts found under most Gibson Tune-O-Matic bridges. The saddles are made from threaded stock, and seem to have enough radius to them to allow for the Bigsby to work freely without binding, while still providing a good contact point, and allowing for changing the spacing between strings. I believe they sell the bridges separately, although it would necessitate boring a couple of holes into the body for the threaded inserts. I always thought the roller bridge on Mosrites worked quite well, there's a similar bridge available from Stewart-Macdonald, which also allows you to roll the roller along a threaded pivot to adjust for personal preferences in string spacing at the bridge.

Oh, and I should add, the Phantom also has a roller-nut (made something like a vintage Tele bridge, even, with three rollers for the six strings), and it seems to work reasonably well, bearing in mind there's a world of difference between what can be done with a Bigsby versus something like, say a Strat.

[gumbo]

Hmm...
This is sort of where some of my thoughts are currently...I was planning to use an LSR roller nut on the Bigsby Palm Pedal conversion of my 72 Custom RI (to be set up as an E9 slide)....looked at other after-market roller nuts and thought they all looked far too bulky and ugly.
Planned to use the Wilkinson Roller Bridge,(with the Bigsby-style bridge pup plate I have) and was thinking roller string trees and Grover locking mini-tuners....bear in mind that with a 4-lever BPP, and my E9 plans, there's gonna be a lot of strings moving around....:-)

...all of that comes from looking and listening to a lot of posts on this and other forums...certainly would be interested in hearing other opinions.

Greetings from Adelaide, South Australia, where it was 41C last weekend...still getting over that one.....

[Billis Magoops]

I was thinking of putting a few roller string trees on as well. As long as you have the bridge set high enough and the neck is shimmmed properly, you should have enuff string tension to keep your strings in place on the bridge. I bought the warmouth modified mustang bridge and decided not to use it. I heard somewheres that if you take a pencil lead and apply it in the string guides bridge and nut, that will work as well. Just make sure when you string you guitar, you have plenty of string wound around the tuners. This will bring the overall position of the strings as low as possible to the tuner, this gives you more tension and puts them in a better alignment to the nut, nice and low.

[Jack Wells]

fezz parka's

I would also use a regular B5 instead of a Fender logo B5. The logo'd one is a little longer,and ends up being too close to the back of the bridgeplate.

fezz ............ what problem does that cause? It is just the fact that the strings would contact an un-notched bridge plate.

[Billis Magoops]

Originally Posted by jwells393

fezz parka's

fezz ............ what problem does that cause? It is just the fact that the strings would contact an un-notched bridge plate.

Also the fender B5 one just looks cleaner. it doesn't have the upper mounting point. The closest one to the bridge, that always stuck out as kinda funny looking.

[Jack Wells]

Deleted..............

[Tom60]

Well, I only have my Bigsby Tele (factory install) for one week
but I´m giving it a good workout every day - with no problem whatsoever,
it stays in tune perfectly.

I only lead penciled nut slots and string tree (stock, vintage ufo) when I restrung the first day.. I believe it is not needed on the floating bridge where strings dont move on the saddles.
Works great for me..