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Old March 29th, 2012, 11:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What tool for adjusting string height on Am. Std?

The title says it all. I have a 90's American Standard with this kind of bridge:


What kind of tool do I need to adjust the string height? I have metric and imperial hex wrenches, but none seem to work.

(Thanks to Telarkaster for the picture from a 2008 post of his.)

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Old March 30th, 2012, 12:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Why won't they work? They won't rotate, or they won't fit?

Are you detuning the strings before you try to turn them?
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Old March 30th, 2012, 09:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The ones that are small enough to fit the slots don't seem to turn them, as though the wrench is to small.

Thanks for the tip on detuning the string! I'll try that.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 10:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You'll be able to tell if the key is the correct size because it will fit snugly and will not turn without application of some significant force. If you've inserted the key into the hole and the key just spins with little effort, then the key is too small.

If it fits properly and will not turn, there is some countervailing force at work. Try loosening the string, as mentioned previously. If that doesn't work, the screw might have corroded or become dirty and is just stuck. In that case try some WD-40.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 10:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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That's what I thought. The keys I have that fit just spin, so I figured they're too small. Anyone know what the correct size is?
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Old March 30th, 2012, 10:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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.050 inches, Imperial.

In a bind, you can remove the saddle, get access to the threaded area on the bottom, and turn with your fingers. These don't tend to get frozen, because of the choice of materials.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 11:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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They're good saddles and screws. You should have received a set of tools with an AmSer/Std including the little Allen key for the saddles. Sometimes these little keys get burred and worn, what I do then is grind them back on the bench grinder. If the screw keyways are worn then I sometimes cut a slot for a jewellers straight screwdriver with a microsaw.

Please keep WD40 de-watering fluid away from your guitar, it dissolves things you don't want dissolved. Use a little light machine lubricating oil such as sewing machine or fishing reel oil, even 3-in-1 without the pointless PTFE.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 02:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boris bubbanov View Post
.050 inches, Imperial.
+1. Don't be confused by the decimal point. This is the smallest wrench in a standard set of Inch/Imperial/English/fractional (not metric) allen wrenches. I have a broken one glued into the handle of a small flathead screwdriver. This size will work for most Fender saddle height screws (American Standard or vintage bridges).
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Old March 30th, 2012, 08:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks guys!
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Old March 31st, 2012, 02:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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It helps to get a high quality hex key. The best ones are the "ball end" type and the most recognizable brand is Bondhus. A good R/C hobby store will carry them, or there are a plethora of web sources:

http://www.bondhus.com/products/l-wrenches/body32.htm

They allow a slightly off-square approach to the screw, but more importantly for this application is the quality of the steel (resists stripping and wearing out) and the tight dimensional tolerances which guarantees a perfectly snug fit in the screw. With the really small Allen sizes like .050", bad steel or any sloppiness in the fit is more likely to result in stripping something when a lot of torque is applied. You can buy cheap Chinese throwaway keys, I just happen to have picked up a set of Bondhus years go and they've never worn out.

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