|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||
| Tele-Technical Telecaster nuts and bolts talk ONLY |
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: linden,penna
Posts: 322
|
Need Help with vintage bridge adjustment...?
I installed a fender vintage 3 saddle bridge sems to be intonated well but action seems to be very high at the nut like the string appear to go from an angle from the nut to the bridge saddle is this common or does it require more adjustments like truss rod and nut slots it is drivinf me nuts having problems setting relief i really like the 3 saddle but i am at this point considering switching back any help or advice on adjustments would be greatly appreciated.........Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,953
|
Couple of thoughts...
Something sounds strange...how does the heights of the parts on the two bridges differ...that might be your clue.
I'm going to guess that you've lowered the saddles to angle things down...but that doesn't sound like your problem. Is what you're saying that the string height at the low frets (e.g. open G or C) too high? Normally this results in those chords playing sharp. The usual test for the proper height at the nut is to capo at the 5th fret. The strings should "almost" touch the 4th fret...I mean...really close so there's almost no space between the fret and the strings. If that's good, then it's not the nut. Then I'd look at the truss rod or shimming the neck to change the angle of the neck slightly. It may be that you've shifted the truss rod slightly and it needs a touch of tightening. Mark the original position with a magic marker on the nut...then try 1/4 turns clockwise (I think...maybe the other way)....re-assemble, bring to pitch and see if that's helped. If that's not fixing the problem...move the rod back to the marked position. If the bridge really is taller and that's what's happening, you may need to shim the neck slightly. That involves putting a sliver of wood between the neck and body to angle the neck. I've done this before by making a sliver of wood as wide as the neck and shaving it until I was able to achieve the angle I needed. The pros should chime in here....I'm pretty good at adjusting my own guitars but there are others that actually know what they're doing. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Friend of Leo's
|
If the action at the nut was fine before you replaced the bridge you probably have the saddles raised too high. Why don't you find out who the best local tech is and have him set it up. This is not an expensive job. Once you see how he has it set up look and see the difference from what you had and it will be a learning experience for the next one. Trust me once you hear the difference in sound a vintage 3 saddle makes properly set up you won't regret it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: linden,penna
Posts: 322
|
tried a local tech here...He knows less than i do
i tried the local tech here,he had it buzzing so bad i couldnt stand it.had to readjust the whole thing said he never worked on a vintage bridge before makes it tough to get any thing done by the pro's,i know it has to be cloose to the way it is suppose to be,i have the problem narrowed to a really good neck adjustment and saddle height.for now i'll just keep at it
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 1,484
|
NOT A TECH
if your "tech" hasn't ever worked on a vintage bridge then he is not really a "tech".
johnny atomic
__________________
Too busy chasing babies around the house to get to play guitar very often. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Dixie
Posts: 30
|
Having been a guitar and amp tech for over 40 years now it is hard to imagine anyone hiring themselves out as a guitar tech and not having experience with the tele three piece bridge. But...I find that many young techs are more comfortable with the gawd aweful Floyd Rose bridge than with the more traditional types...though its still hard to imagine how anyone could escape having done some "seat time" with the tele bridges.
willie |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Alpharetta, Ga.
Age: 47
Posts: 156
|
Go back to the basics.
Since your local "tech" was no help. Go to www.mrgearhead.com and read over the setup procedure. Make sure you understand the steps and why they need to be done in order. If the tele was playing pretty much buzz free before changing the bridge, you should be able to get there again with the new bridge. I have a habit of playing too hard, when the spirit is on me, so I have to set the neck relief a little higher than specified or she'll buzz some. Good Luck.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: linden,penna
Posts: 322
|
thanks for the input guys
thanks for the input guys,i done some more tinkering and it is playing really weel i am satisfied with it,so im going to just play it and enjoy the playing time,i have noticed it does have a different feel than the newer style 6 saddle bridges.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Holic
|
Hi there, I'm a N00b. I hope it's not bad form to post to an old thread. I have the vintage barrel-style bridge, and when I bend a note on the high E string in the very middle of the neck (7th or 8th fret) I get a slight buzz, like the string is touching something it shouldn't. Am I correct in assuming that I need to raised that string, just a touch?
|
|
|
|
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
|
IMPORTANT:Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult! No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.