5 Bolt Neck

[dsutton24]

Which brings up a other point, guitar neck threaded insert fasteners. Anyone with experience?

I've used them, but only to fix problems like stripped holes or mislocated holes, and they do work very well for this. You're still threading something (the insert) directly into the wood of the neck, then running screws through the wooden body into the inserts. Given all the compression / shearing / bending opportunities, I don't think the inserts make the joint any more rigid than screwed or well done wood plug repairs. In a repair situation I do think inserts are quicker than gluing plugs and redrilling.

I don't remember seeing a screwed neck joint fail becaused of a dropped or bashed guitar. Headstocks snapped, or fingerboards popped, yes. I think the only repairs I've done on neck joints have always been accompanied with either battered screw heads or twisted-off heads, indicating that someone has been Technicianizing.

Has anyone seen different?

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by dsutton24

Which brings up a other point, guitar neck threaded insert fasteners. Anyone with experience?

I've used them, but only to fix problems like stripped holes or mislocated holes, and they do work very well for this. You're still threading something (the insert) directly into the wood of the neck, then running screws through the wooden body into the inserts. Given all the compression / shearing / bending opportunities, I don't think the inserts make the joint any more rigid than screwed or well done wood plug repairs. In a repair situation I do think inserts are quicker than gluing plugs and redrilling.

I don't remember seeing a screwed neck joint fail becaused of a dropped or bashed guitar. Headstocks snapped, or fingerboards popped, yes. I think the only repairs I've done on neck joints have always been accompanied with either battered screw heads or twisted-off heads, indicating that someone has been Technicianizing.

Has anyone seen different?

Ive noticed some guitars with screws have a tendency to wander left or right. Not all of em, but some of em do, even when the screws are tight. But with neck bolts, you can really crank em down tight, and they don't move at all. Guys who really bang their necks around benefit from this the most.

[Vizcaster]

Why is it that the CBS era three-bolt "tilt-necks" are not loved by collectors? Is it the three bolt design itself (I don't think so)? Is it the ugly bullet trussrod adjusting nut exposed at the headstock? Is it something unstable about a single-point tilt screw being a poor substitute for a full-width shim? Or is it guys like Eric Johnson who can hear the difference between Phillips and slot-head pickguard screws?

My theory: Tilt-necks are a signal of the era these guitars were made in. They simply did not have good quality control, and the company cut corners on everything else but the design. That, and there's no reason for a set-screw under the neck plate - if the neck needs to be shimmed it should be done with playing cards or matchbook covers.

[Bolide]

Vizcaster, I regard that as more than theory, I regard that as fact.
Without excessive slop between the butt and the neck pocket three bolt (oops) would work just fine. With excessive slop no number of bolts would work well, unless you added Frankenstein bolts sticking out at right angles.

I disagree about the shims, however. I think the only proper shims would be wedges made of beluga ivory hand sanded by Abyssinian virgins.

And Torx pickguard screws sound best.

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by Vizcaster

Why is it that the CBS era three-bolt "tilt-necks" are not loved by collectors? Is it the three bolt design itself (I don't think so)? Is it the ugly bullet trussrod adjusting nut exposed at the headstock? Is it something unstable about a single-point tilt screw being a poor substitute for a full-width shim? Or is it guys like Eric Johnson who can hear the difference between Phillips and slot-head pickguard screws?

My theory: Tilt-necks are a signal of the era these guitars were made in. They simply did not have good quality control, and the company cut corners on everything else but the design. That, and there's no reason for a set-screw under the neck plate - if the neck needs to be shimmed it should be done with playing cards or matchbook covers.

I thought the 3 bolt necks were bad for sideways deviation.

[Vizcaster]

Originally Posted by Colt W. Knight

I thought the 3 bolt necks were bad for sideways deviation.

Makes sense to me but my only lasting relationship with a three-bolt that I would borrow occasionally was very satisfying and I never needed the chiropractor trick. The rest of them are dogs.

And my shims are made from matchbook covers from strip joints back in the day when you could smoke and be young enough to seek out such things.

[Stan House]

I had quite a few chuckles from all of you. It was a fun thing reading all the answers, especially the one about Eric Johnson. Funny!

In all due respects to everyone out there, 4 screw mounting is about it as far as sustain goes. A thru neck would probably be best for sustain, but I have so much sustain on all my 4 screw Tele necks that it gets in the way sometimes. Just make sure that the screws are tight and if the neck doesn't fit down in the pocket securely, shim it with a well known wood product such as "Masking Tape". It works extremely well. By the way, a Fender neck will twist with age and the elements. I would rather have a little side movement anyway to tweak the neck into proper alignment. If you ever drop a Tele in it's case like I did, you definitely have to check the neck.

Keep the funny stuff coming, I love it.

Sincerely, Stan House from Copperas Cove, Texas. Fingerstyle Picker for over 50 years now and still at it on my Tele's of course.

[DOGMA Dunn]

The three bolt micro-tilt fender design is actually 5 bolts. There are three screws that hold the circular metal plate on top of the body that holds the bolt that screws through the neck into the body, and the two forward screws that go through the neck into the body. So what you have is a system of 5 bolts that hold the neck into the body.

[jkingma]

Six looks cool...



IMO...

[DOGMA Dunn]

Althoug the micro tilt is available, I do not use it. I had a 78 hardtail strat which after adjusting using the micro tilt, cracked the wood on the body near the forward screw near the neck screw, because the micro tilt had put more shear stress on that particular area of the body. Fixed it by using paper shims to put even pressure in the neck pocket. After 27-30 years of play the fix still holds up well.

[BigDaddyLH]

Make up your mind, Ernie Ball Music Man!

[PinewoodRo]

I thought scratch plate screws made of cheese sounded best - why else do they make them?

[Al Watsky]

I'm working on a 3 "bolt" Strat now.
Seen em' come and go.
Looked for a way to make them more solid.
Noticed this.
The circular plate the large central bolt is secured to is often below the surface of the neck pocket so if the tilt is used there is less contact between the neck heel and the body pocket and even if the tilt is not used the body pocket is out of contact with the neck in a 1 inch square area.
There is plenty of poly on the neck and the body pocket its often not leveled which makes the joint even more unstable.
The paper factory log tag thats slapped on the neck heel adds insult to injury.
The pocket it self is oversized.
The 3 "bolt" system can serve if all those issues are addressed.
Our pals at CBS didn't carry of the design very well I'm afraid.
Seems the reissues are a "bit" better

[Chet Johnson]

Originally Posted by TeleTim911

First of all, "bolt on" neck is a misnomer. How many necks are actually "bolted" on? They are screwed on.

Secondly with the way most guitars are built in mass production, why not just go ahead and use wood inserts?

I agree, and the sustain gain, durability, and ease of removal for adjustments are ALL incredible.

[rcole_sooner]

[Thinlineggman]

My bass (Schecter stiletto) has a 6-screw neck. That thing is SOLID! But, I would rather have a set neck, unless it's a cheaper squier or some sort of cheapo fender copy. I like to be able to upgrade shoddy work and fender 'licensed' necks are all over the place;)

[KevinB]

Originally Posted by DOGMA Dunn

The three bolt micro-tilt fender design is actually 5 bolts. There are three screws that hold the circular metal plate on top of the body that holds the bolt that screws through the neck into the body, and the two forward screws that go through the neck into the body. So what you have is a system of 5 bolts that hold the neck into the body.

Well, close! But 4 of those 7 screws play no part in holding the neck to the body. Here's what it really looks like...

[Tele-Meister]

A OTHER QUESTION.


Since we're talkin' 'bout 'ose dang ol' neck pockets man, I best bring this issue up...


Have any of you had experience with sanding the finish OFF the neck butt where it joins the neck pocket?

Would the durability of the neck be sacrificed with this method?

Alot of people say this increases sustain. ect.

[Tele-Meister]

@Chet Johnson
So you have had experience with those Neck-Insert-bolts? And you do feel like it helped out the sustain?

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by Tele-Meister

A OTHER QUESTION.


Since we're talkin' 'bout 'ose dang ol' neck pockets man, I best bring this issue up...


Have any of you had experience with sanding the finish OFF the neck butt where it joins the neck pocket?

Would the durability of the neck be sacrificed with this method?

Alot of people say this increases sustain. ect.

A lot of people say guitars with lacquer finishes breathe.

A lot of people say NASA never sent a man to the moon.

A lot of people say they can hear the difference between rosweood and maple fretboards.

A lot of people say SS and NS frets have different tone.