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Old February 8th, 2011, 03:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Neck too straight, truss rod problems.

Hi everyone,
It's my first post on this forum, about my first telecaster ever!
I have some issues with the truss rod. The thing is, no matter how loose i set it, the neck is always super straight, and i have way too low action. i used an allen key to loosen it, and right now it doesn't offer any resistance, like if i was turning the screw through nothing.

I use .10 strings in standard tuning also.
Thank you for your response, and i hope this wasn't discussed before, i searched a bit and couldn't find anything...

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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What type of tele do you have?

Can you post a picture of the adjusment?
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here are 3 pictures: the serial number, the action when i pluck the 1 and 21 th fret and the allen key hole on the headstock. Thank you!
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hmmm... I am not familiar with that adjustment. It looks like a double acting truss rod that has been altered or repaired maybe? It could be that the double acting feature has been defeated.

Your relief, the gap, at the 8th fret should be about the thickness of your high e string.

I would raise the action, regardles, if you feel it is to low. And this will start a firestorm from those that don't understand the physics, but raising the action WILL help develop some relief in the neck over time.

Did you just oil your fretboard maybe?
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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FWIW, one doesn't set action with the truss rod. The truss rod allows one to set proper relief. Then, the action is set to that situation. IF the neck then bows up or back due to changes in climate or string tension, the truss rod should allow one to make an adjustment.
Do this. Fret at the first fret, low E..or use a capo. Then, fret at the 12th fret. IF you are doing this with a fretting figner at the 1st fret, then fret the 12th fret with the pinky of the other hand. While fretting that 12th fret with the pinky, stretch with that hand until the index finger can reach the 6-7th fret area. Check the relief gap. Set the truss rod adjustment so that this relief in this area with this meaurement is less than .010"....or the size of the 1st string or less. This is the proper line for the neck. Then, action at the nut and action+radius should be set at the bridge. These are the first 3 steps of a proper set-up. There is a reason why I do not subscribe to the guidelines on the FEnder site...but it takes to long to explain. IF hte neck is 'perfect', then the FEnder guidelines utilizing the 17th fret mgiht work. Few necks are perfect. Teh truss rod does not affect the neck of a fEnder form the 15th fret on up the neckk. The 12th fret is the proper point of measurement....especially if the neck kicks up in the tongue area or....as in a really good neck--falls away above the 12th fret.

IF the truss rod adjustment will not allow more than .010" of relief without backing off of the rod, then the truss rod is inactive at that end of the range. This doesn't preclude the ability of the guitar to be set-up, but it is indicative of a problem with the truss rod. IF the neck is perfectly straight or has a bit of relief, the guitar can be set-up. IF the neck has backbow, then the neck has serious problems.
IF the neck has no backbow with a truss rad that is 'loose' but is straight, one can set the guitar up. IF the neck has slight backbow wtih a loose truss rod, then one might try heavier strings to pull the neck into a straight or bow-up situation. IF the backbow cannot be worked with, then only drastic measures can save the neck.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Wally,

What do you make of that adjusting hole??? Think the rod has been altered?
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You can raise the action at the saddles, possibly consider replacing the nut if your action is still too low.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piece of ash View Post
What do you make of that adjusting hole??? Think the rod has been altered?
I am unclear as to what you mean by "altered."
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Piece, I don't see anythign wrong with it. It has the plastic insert that should be there.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piece of ash View Post
Wally,

What do you make of that adjusting hole??? Think the rod has been altered?
I'm not Wally...but that is the Standard Black Plastic Access Hole that is on all of the MIM Standard series...takes a 3/16" allen wrench...what makes you think that it's odd ?
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Old February 8th, 2011, 04:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Are the rods used in these MIMs double acting?

On my AM Strat the hole for the wrench is much smaller... and it is a walnut plug the truss nut can push against to counter back bow...
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just never looked at a MIM neck before...

Are those rods double acting?
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Old February 8th, 2011, 06:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Wow, thanks for all the answers! people over here seems real helpful!

I don't think it is a double action TR, since there is no allen key on the other side of the neck (the joint)
Also, I think Imade a mistake talking about low action, i should have said that the neck is too straight for me. thanks everyone.
EDIT: oh, and no backbow at all.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 07:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piece of ash View Post
Just never looked at a MIM neck before...

Are those rods double acting?

NO!


Quote:
Originally Posted by piece of ash View Post
Hmmm... I am not familiar with that adjustment.

you should have stopped writing at that point!
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Old February 8th, 2011, 07:23 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Here's a link to Fender's website. These are the "how to's"


http://www.fender.com/support/articl...=how-to-guides
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Old February 8th, 2011, 07:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Blazerok...
1) double action rods dont' have two adjustment points. They just act a bit differently. As far as the adjusting, you wouldn't see the difference IF yourneck didn't have this problem.
2)AS I said...perdectly straight....no relief but no backbow...is not a deadly problem. The guitar can be set-up with a straight neck. You might want to go to a heavier string gauge to see if it can pull the neck a bit. There are some tricks with heat and clamping that might put the neck into an adjustable range. There is even a trick with just pressure that sometimes helps a neck....sometimes. You are in need of a tech who knows what they are doing to see if the neck is salvageable, imho.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 08:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I once dropped my Tele and it developed a back bow that slacking the truss rod wouldn't cure.
I set the neck between 2 stacks of books and put a weight in the middle.
It was back to normal in a couple days.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 09:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
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cool! i will try adding bigger gauges and see how it will help, then look at some other suggestions. Thanks everyone, i appreciate all the quick help i got today!
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Old February 9th, 2011, 12:07 AM   #19 (permalink)
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You can also back the nut off the truss rod, and put it into a jig that will put a back bow into the neck over a couple days. Then you can string it back up, and use the truss rod to adjust the relief.
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Old February 9th, 2011, 12:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Gee whiz Russ,

Your post would helpful if Fender actually had anyhing too say about this issue...
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