Why didn't my decal work?

[scubadoo]

Hello,

The decal on my first build isn't clear, and the edges are clearly visible.



I read a thread by, i think, Dillbone who thought it was because he hadn't let it dry thoroughly. I don't think i waited very long after applying the decal before spraying the nitro. So is that the problem or could i have crappy waterslide paper. Are there any particular brands to go for?

I think i need to sand the decal off on my second build but want to make sure i don't have the same problem again so any help would be appreciated.

[Stuco]

It's not that bad. You see this on fenders sometimes too. Maybe you can find a clearer decal material next time. I think you are supposed to spray a coat or two on the neck before adding the decal and also spray the decal a little (and let dry) before applying it.

[Old Cane]

Mine looked like that before I sprayed it. I had no intention of doing that but it started really buggin' me after a couple of weeks. So, mine was really, really dry. Maybe that's moisture trapped? In other words I have no idea and I'm not sure why I'm even repsonding. Maybe to keep this near the top. Yeah, that's it.

[scubadoo]

The neck was a MightyMIte. I scuffed the finish with 400 grit. I had also shot a couple of clear coats on the decal before applying.

Old Cane: Are you saying that you left it for 2 weeks before spraying clear?

Aren't all clear waterslide papers clear? Does anyone know of a particularly 'clear' brand?

[andrewb]

i see this happening so much on this and other forums and think to myself :

"" why dont you grab a new sharp xacto blade, and cut a mm or so around the edge of the decal..... even if this happens it wont look bad.... i know i will do it if i ever do a decal ""

[scubadoo]

Originally Posted by andrewb

i see this happening so much on this and other forums and think to myself :

"" why dont you grab a new sharp xacto blade, and cut a mm or so around the edge of the decal..... even if this happens it wont look bad.... i know i will do it if i ever do a decal ""

Yeah, I did that on my second but it still isn't how i'd like it.

[bobandshawn]

I laquered my neck from Mighty Mite. Two or three thin coats over the head...then apply the waterslide decal. Then build up thin coats over the decal and head area to blend it all together. I wouldn't have pre-scuffed it as you said.

[scubadoo]

I forgot to say that after i scuffed the finish, i sprayed some clear. the scuffing was just to get a good bond between the poly and the nitro. Then i added the decal.

[1charger69]

a friend of mine asked me to clear over a decal he had made for his bass...i could tell even before i put it on that the same thing was gonna happen....it said he didnt care....chances are its the waterslide paper your using

[scubadoo]

so is there a particular brand i should look for in the UK?

[Old Cane]

Originally Posted by scubadoo

The neck was a MightyMIte. I scuffed the finish with 400 grit. I had also shot a couple of clear coats on the decal before applying.

Old Cane: Are you saying that you left it for 2 weeks before spraying clear?

Aren't all clear waterslide papers clear? Does anyone know of a particularly 'clear' brand?

Yes, the neck had been hardening about 2 months. I put on the decal with no intention of clear coating it. So after 2 more weeks I couldn't stand it anymore and sprayed it with more clear, waited a month and sanded again.

[RodeoTex]

I think if you build up a lot of coats of clear on top of the decal you can wet sand it to feather down the edges.
I've had good luck doing this so that the decal paper becomes invisible.

[bad porcupine]

I've never used the waterslide stuff, but I had good luck with my decal from these guys:

http://www.best-decals.com/

(no affiliation, btw)

It's vinyl, I believe, very very thin, and no "clear" around the edges... in other words, it's just your design on the vinyl. Mine was black on top of metallic gold. Someday I'll get a photo...

[newtwanger]

I've bought a few waterslide papers off eBay and can tell you that what you are seeing is crappy ws paper. the adhesive on the back has fogged and even if you level it (it's probably thicker than the good stuff too so leveling is 8-14 coats..speaking from experience.. ) you'll lose the edge but still see the fog.

On eBay someone sells ws paper that has a kid with an umbrella on the package. this stuff is as good as you get for inkjet paper..

[Ironwolf]

Good quality waterslide paper is the key.

This is under wipe on poly.



This is the same paper under nitro (Deft).

[scubadoo]

Thanks guys, i guess it is the paper as it's done it on all 3. i guess i'll have to sand off the second headstock and wait another month

[Ironwolf]

The stuff you want can be acquired at hobby shops. It is intended for making decals for model airplanes and cars. It is not a water slide "paper", but rather an extremely thin plastic film on a backing surface.

[martyb1]

Here is the stuff I use.It works great
Paper
I have used it under Deft and also Minwax Spray Poly
Here it is under Deft



And with the spray poly

[Mr. B]

Hope you don't mind if I slightly hijack this thread for my own purposes...

Will a waterslide decal work on/under an oil finish or will it fail miserably?

[scubadoo]

Originally Posted by Mr. B

Hope you don't mind if I slightly hijack this thread for my own purposes...

Will a waterslide decal work on/under an oil finish or will it fail miserably?

Not a good idea under oil but you can put it on top of a hardened oil finish and then spray clear over it, I've done that on a neck i finished in Tru-oil. worked great apart from the crappy waterslide paper.