Strings Move On Saddles

[Vince a]

I've noticed that the strings move around on the compensated brass saddles of a Partscaster that I built.

I look down and the string spacing is closer between some strings . . . mainly the first three . . . Of course I just lightly squeeze one or the other to visually put them back to even spacing.

Is this normal? If not . . . what's the cure? File a small groove for them?

[yegbert]

Originally Posted by Vince a

I've noticed that the strings move around on the compensated brass saddles of a Partscaster that I built.

I look down and the string spacing is closer between some strings . . . mainly the first three . . . Of course I just lightly squeeze one or the other to visually put them back to even spacing.

Is this normal? If not . . . what's the cure? File a small groove for them?

What brand/model brass saddles are you using?

Do your saddles' intonation adjustment screws all sit fairly parallel to each other, or does it have any alignment/fit issues causing them to sit splayed out?

When the strings are spaced how you like them, are the strings relatively straight end-to-end?

Yes, filing a small groove can help. But it would be worthwhile first making sure your Tele doesn't have some other issues with alignment or fit.

With Stewmac brass comp saddles, I had to grind/cut some material off the inside ends to get them to align and fit together properly.

Here was a set I had shaped that way:


I have used a small file and sometimes a Dremel cutting wheel (very carefully) to make grooves in them. The Dremel wheel I used to get a starting notch, the file I used to shape and smooth it.

I think the set in the pic above, I hadn't grooved yet.

[Vince a]

Originally Posted by yegbert

What brand/model brass saddles are you using?

Callaham (bridge and saddles).

Originally Posted by yegbert

Do your saddles' intonation adjustment screws all sit fairly parallel to each other, or does it have any alignment/fit issues causing them to sit splayed out?

I'm not sure what you mean . . . the saddles seem to be parallel to each other, although the adjustment screws heights are varied . . . the middle is level . . . the e string side of the saddle is lower than the B side . . . the upper saddle E is lower than the A side . . . is this NOT how you get a good radius curve? Should the middle be level, and then the two outer saddles a bit lower, but level, to achieve that radius?

Originally Posted by yegbert

When the strings are spaced how you like them, are the strings relatively straight end-to-end?

Yes, visual site alignment down the neck is perfect.

Originally Posted by yegbert

Yes, filing a small groove can help. But it would be worthwhile first making sure your Tele doesn't have some other issues with alignment or fit.

With Stewmac brass comp saddles, I had to grind/cut some material off the inside ends to get them to align and fit together properly.

I have used a small file and sometimes a Dremel cutting wheel (very carefully) to make grooves in them. The Dremel wheel I used to get a starting notch, the file I used to shape and smooth it.

Thanks for the pics . . . I will try to get this ironed out. Do as much checking as I can . . . read on how to match the radius with the strings . . . grind away ends if needed, and finally, if all else fails . . . cut some grooves. I have the same Dremel/cutting wheels.

I figure I can align the strings on the saddles . . . get an eraseable magic marker . . . mark right on top of the strings at the saddle with the marker, which should leave me a clean area where the string was to cut once the string is away.

[yegbert]

Vince a,

The Callahams seem to be made short enough they shouldn't have the fit issues I had with the Stewmacs, so they should be able to sit correctly keeping the strings straight and without taking material off the inner ends.

The marker idea is what I've done too. U sed a fine point permanent marker (Sharpie) and mark on either side of each string. You don't need to make it long, just a very short groove centered longitudinally where the strings now are making contact. Shorter than the length they cover now is better than the full length.

It doesn't need to be erasable marker, the permanent stuff will clean off quite easily with solvent, fine sandpaper, steel wool or polish.

[Vince a]

yegbert,

Thanks, I may have the final issue (problem) on my Partscaster taken care of . . . I do appreciate the brainstorming and info . . .