New Tele, but with bridge problems!

[davebelcher98]

A message from a "newbie":

A couple of weeks ago I got an AllParts-made Tele for my birthday (used via eBay) -- my other main guitars are late 90's Strat and a DeArmond M-75 -- and I noticed a few issues. I had to give the guitar a full setup, but I noticed that the saddles at the bridge (it is a top-loader with the six-barrel saddles) weren't standing up straight -- even when "level" -- because some of the screws were coming out at an angle. At the high E string the bottom screw was pulling itself away from the face of the guitar back up into the saddle (usually after I let it sit in the case for a few hours). I also was having some buzz with the D string (open and around the first couple of frets -- this was after a good setup with truss adjustment, saddle height and intonation set) and the A string (a little less buzz, but similar to the D). The guitar played pretty good, and it was setup with correct intonation after I got everything setup to my taste and to specs (it was probably around a 4/64 action height). But, I wanted to get rid of the buzz altogether (not a good kind of buzz), and I thought replacing the saddles might do the trick since I had some crooked screws in there and I assumed the bottom screw on the high E string saddle must have been stripped out, which is why it was pulling out after sitting. This was strung up with .10s by the way.

So, I replaced the saddles with the exact same barrel type, but this time graph-tech (the others were std chrome). Basically the same issues. A new problem now, though: the screws that attach the saddles to the bridge (not for height adjustment) feel kinda "loose" to me in their bridge slots...the D string especially (where I'm getting the most buzz) is kind of loose. I also noticed that the screws that came with these saddles (again, for bridge attachment) are all the same length...the ones I had on previously were staggered to account for the different string lengths necessary to bring each string up to pitch. So, the D string screw is almost backed up as far as it can go, but it needs to be backed out a little more still (it's the only string where intonation is still a little flat). I'll post some pics below. If anyone has any clarity on this issue and has advice, I would be most grateful. I have never had to take my guitars in for a "pro setup," as I've always been pretty good with this stuff, but this is kind of beyond me...and I really don't have the money for a setup...we're pretty broke! Thanks!

From Phone - sam and sophia, tele guitar 072.jpg

From Phone - sam and sophia, tele guitar 073.jpg

From Phone - sam and sophia, tele guitar 074.jpgdave b

[mellecaster]

If someone else "Built" this Guitar, my 1st thought would be to measure from the nut to a bridge saddle, and see where the 25 1/2 " scale falls.

[Southern Ill Electrics]

Is there a shim in the neck pocket?

[boris bubbanov]

Hey, Dave!

That inexpensive top loader is born to have a 2 + 1/16ths or less string array.

The Graphtech saddles you were sold are meant for a 2 + 7/32nds string array.

Many real Allparts bodies are already drilled for string through type bridges - the bridge mount holes are do it yourself but through holes are the rule there. If you have thru holes I would convert to a vintage style 3 barrel string through bridge assembly. The one you have there was a bear in stock form; the Graphtechs just made it worse. If your body is not string through in all probability it is not a real Allparts body.

I also agree with Mellecaster. I think that bridge plate looks jammed in there way too high, too close to the neck. That can't help, so check that also.

[davebelcher98]

ArmyGreenKustom,

I haven't taken the neck off yet, but my guess would be not.

Mellecaster,

Yeah, Low E string and High E string are intonated where they are -- the low E is at about 25 3/4 while the High E is at about 25 5/8!

Boris,

This is not a string through body -- I have been in contact with the guy I bought it from (to the point of losing all patience now) waiting for him to contact the original "builder" -- no luck on that end yet. Thanks for the info, especially on the graphtech -- I wasn't aware of a different string array on those. Will the Graphtechs not work on that bridge at all with that string array? I hope to God I can still return them if not! The meanest thing I'm getting right now is crazy buzz at 9th fret D string. The frets could use some work, but they're not overly scorched -- the 5th and 6th A string fret area's worse.

The problem with this guitar is that it sounded fantastic before I put the graphtech's on (it has definitely thinned out -- though I also stuck 9s on it this time to see how they'd feel)...I mean, one of the best sounding tele's I may have ever played. But, I was having those issues with the bottom high E string saddle screw pulling out, and just a little bit of unnatural buzz from the D and the A strings, so I thought replacing saddles might be the best option...perhaps not.

Any thoughts on where I should go next with this? Should I cut my losses and try returning this to the guy I bought it from? I paid $250 for it, so for the amazing tone of the instrument and the pickups, I'd really rather not, but I can't live with a guitar that I can't setup without loads of money and that won't be properly intonated (still can't get the D string intonated where it's set -- perhaps I need to go ahead and move my E string saddles to 25 1/2 scale length and adjust others from there?...I don't see how this would work for me, though, seeing as the E strings are properly intonated where they are).

Thanks so much for all of your replies with my headache here.

[davebelcher98]

Well, here's what I'm going to do for now: I've removed the graphtechs (hopefully I can still return them -- they were expensive from the little mom and pop store here in Indiana!), and I can now get in to the neck pocket to see if the neck has been shimmed at all. I think I'll stick the old chromes back on for now, but I think I'd still like to do more work on this thing...like perhaps replacing the bridge altogether.

How much work/how much would it cost (if I took it somewhere), do you guys estimate, to drill holes for string through? That would obviously mean I wouldn't be returning the guitar, but Boris you mentioned that you thought the bridge seemed up a little high...given my location of 25 1/2 (there wasn't that much compensation on the high and low E strings -- 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch), would you still say that? The easiest thing for me to do would be to put a new bridge with three hole attachment after a mod for string through (like a vintage bridge with 3 brass saddles).

Any thoughts? Also, why is it that the saddles seem "crammed" together? From what I can tell, the high E string saddle is having issues because the other string saddles are "pushing" against it -- is this an indication that the bridge is "off," even if only slightly?

I'm just kind of at my wit's end...this is a birthday present for God's sake, it's not supposed to be this much work! Ha. Well, thanks again in advance for any help you brilliant guys can offer...I appreciate it.

dave b

[davebelcher98]

This is just getting worse and worse. I went to take the graph techs back, and the guy there informed me that I should just use the springs from the old saddles with the graphtechs, so I tried that last night -- setup to Fender specs with a straight neck, and decent frets (no shim in the neck pocket by the way -- and not an all parts...nothing labelled allparts or licensed by fender under the neck plate)...now the top three strings are not fully resonating! I am still having the issues with the high E string saddle as I have been all along, but now, it's as if there is a light rag underneath the G through high E strings muffling them just a bit...my guess is that it is because of the tighter springs! AARGH. Please help! If anyone has any clue as to what I need to do, please let me know. I am pretty much to the point where I will have no other choice but to send this thing back to the seller. I am so frustrated with it at this point. ANd I really, really don't want to do that. The way this thing sounds for the price I paid -- I really don't want to get rid of it (and again, birthday present! Another tele that sounds as good is going to cost me); all I want is for the dang thing to play nice -- that's all!

Sorry to keep whining about my problem, but I was hoping some of you experts might have a few ideas up your sleeves. Thanks.

dave b

[mellecaster]

I feel it's time to bite the Bullet...and find a Good Tech to take it to...the Operative word being "Good"

[davebelcher98]

Yeah, I know, I think you're right. I wouldn't normally complain about spending money on my gear -- it's just a birthday present, so things seem a little jacked up here...it's a great gift, don't get me wrong! We're just broke as it is, so I have no idea when I'll even be able to get this to a good tech, and a real problem is that I am brand new to this area, and I have no idea who a good tech is here in town. I don't even know any good players in town to find out who they would go to! Anyway. Thanks for the response Mellecaster.

dave b

[davebelcher98]

Off the top of your head, what would you say a situation like mine, with this guitar, might cost to get setup properly? I know that every tech is going to have different prices -- just looking for a ballpark. I've never taken my guitars to techs, so I honestly have no idea.

dave b

[spacey]

hey dave,
no great ( or new ) answers here, just wanted to let you know i've been dealing with the same issues with my new cv since i got it back in feb. i did take it to a local tech,
85 bucks and his "set-up" was worse then mine. ( i think he was pissed i had'nt bought a guitar from him ) i started looking on the web for techs in my area, i may have found one but i'm a tad gun-shy about dumping more bread for poor work. anyway wanted to wish you luck. please post the solution if you find it .....
mark

[davebelcher98]

Thanks Spacey,

It's really bizarre. I mean, this is a homebuilt (my best guess is that it is a Saga kit), so it's not as though there won't be potential problems. But, still. I have a straight neck (just a tad relief, how I like it, and how I set up my strat and DeArmond), frets are worn, but not stoned, good saddle height, good intonation...the only thing I haven't really checked is the nut (cause I'm just not experienced with nuts, and I know the kind of problems that can be caused by overfiling). I mean, I just don't understand why the G through high E strings are so dead and muffled! If there's no obstruction on the top of the saddle and the nut slots are cut decent (and I know this must not be the problem, because the guitar certainly was not doing this with the chrome saddles!), the string should at least ring and resonate, right?! I even put a little bit of nut grease at all contact points this time stringing it up...string trees are screwed down nice, good neck-pocket mate...I just don't get it. Obviously, I'm having troubles with the graph tech saddles, but I just don't understand that. I'm going to put the chromes back on and just use the set of strings I have on there right now to see what I come up with (I don't have an extra set here).

So, when you say "similar problems," what exactly are you getting? Are you experiencing that you can't lower your high E string saddle any lower than it is because it is being "pushed" on by the other saddles? The lowest screw is pulling out, so that I have to tighten it to the extent that it humps up on the bottom side a bit (rather than laying flat or tilting just a bit with the curve--I generally leave my saddles standing up evenly, and adjust a graduated height according to radius, but not with that high E string!).

I'll let you know if I come across the solution...I'm pulling my hair out (what's left of it). My wife keeps telling me: just return it to the seller. Frustrated.

dave b

[davebelcher98]

This is the endless nightmare: put the chromes back on -- I should expect the same singing tone and sustain I was getting when I first plugged in this guitar (even though there were some admitted buzzes, and the whole high E string saddle issue...and yes, many of the bridge saddle screws/holes were/are stripped), but, NO. I still have the weird muffledness on the top three strings now. All I did was to put the graphtechs on, and now that I have gone back, why would I still have this exact same issue! It wasn't there the first time around. Please, anyone, help?! I realize that I might have to take this to a pro tech, but not only do I not know the techs in the area, I really don't have the money to spend. If any of you have advice on how I can in the very least troubleshoot to find out what is causing this horrific sound, I would be very grateful.

dave b

[lonewolf]

I hate that type of bridge! It's bad guitar design! One of the reasons that you are having so much trouble is that the string slots are not centered between the two height adjustment allen bolts. That puts all the downwards pressure over just one of the allen height bolts, leaving the other one to rattle around and buzz, which is a sustain killer! This is especially true in cases where the strings have a very flat path over the saddles, to the anchor point at the back of the bridge. The only way to improve the situation if possible, is to shim your neck. Remove the neck and insert one of those large "medium fender triangle picks" in the neck cavity, with the point of the pick pointing towards the tuner end of the neck. Re-install your neck mounting screws, tightly, but don't overdo it to the point of grinding the neck plate into the body. This will kick your neck-angle back some. As a result you will now have to raise the saddles allen height adjustment bolts, to get the same action you had before. Hopefully the height adjustment bolts will be long enough. If you are able to do this, the strings will now take a much larger bend or "breaking angle" over the saddles. That will give you more down pressure on each of the saddles, which will should help with your initial problem. It's hard to tell in the pictures but I think boris buubanov is right in saying that the saddles you bought as replacements, are not the correct fit for that bridge. Never buy a guitar with a bridge that does not support the strings with equal weight on each height adjustment bolt! The old 3 saddle telecaster bridge design was the best bridge of all time!
Gene Warner
repairman

[lonewolf]

sorry, I should have made it clear, that the "fender medium triangle pick" has to have it's widest part at the back of the neck cavity, with the pointy part facing the headstock end. By the back, I mean the part of the neck pocket that is closest to the bridge!
Gene Warner
repairman

[Guitfiddler]

I know you don't want to return it, but if this were giving me the kind of headache you're getting, I'd send it back tomorrow. Then get an SX and drop a set of keystones in it. It'll play and sound great, and you'll come out with money in your pocket.

[davebelcher98]

Guitfiddler,

I've contacted the seller, actually, to see about returning it already -- waiting on his reply.

Lonewolf,

Thanks for that. I had a feeling that a large part of my issue was the bridge/saddles. Would there be a possibility of replacing the bridge? Would that help me any? I still don't fully understand why the top three strings have become muffled like they are...does anyone have any idea of what that is? Surely someone has encountered this symptom before -- any clues on the illness and the cure?

Again, I assumed the muffledness was due to using the tighter springs from the chromes on the graphtechs, but the muffle remained after putting the chromes back on. What baffles me is that this thing played fine (just with all the saddle problems) before I tried to put the graphtechs on...why would it still have the muffle?! I have had to make a few basic adjustments such as the truss rod -- but I had to make a truss adjustment when I first setup the guitar, and to the exact same specs as I have it setup now, yet now I have the muffles. Nothing else -- to my knowledge!! -- is different. Basic troubleshooting, in my mind, dictates that the dang thing should sound and play like it did before...but no. It does not.

I might just be done with the thing (if I can return it -- he said initially that I could, but it's been a couple weeks now), but if I can solve the issues, I really do love the way this thing sounds. Just don't have the money to put into this thing what it needs. Aargh.

Thanks again.

dave b

[davebelcher98]

It looks like the only real possibility of sticking a decent bridge on this thing is filling the bridge attachment holes (or perhaps just the middle hole if the outer two are spaced correctly), drilling four new holes (or two, if the outer two are spaced correctly), drilling string through holes, and attaching ferrules. Does that sound right to y'all too?

[lonewolf]

It is going to be considerably more difficult to replace the bridge, than it has been to just replace the saddles. Believe me this comes from 40 years of experience in the repair business. It will be even more difficult, to convert it to "string though the body configuration". If you do all that, and still have the same problems, or new ones, then you will not be able to return the guitar. I think it would be a serious mistake to try to change the bridge. The "muffling" is a common problem resulting from the poor bridge design, too little "breaking angle" over the saddles, and possibly some part of your set-up being incorrect. It is so difficult to diagnose these things without having the guitar in your hands. I feel pretty certain that with the original saddles, I could have made the guitar play correctly, after a proper set-up. The neck shim thing I mentioned really should help, and isn't that difficult to try. I know it sounds wierd, but they often put shims in the neck pocket at the factory, on new guitars. What have you got to loose at this point? Try it.
Gene Warner
repairman

[davebelcher98]

Thanks Gene. I will indeed give it a go. I appreciate your help with this. Do you happen to know what size the Fender Medium picks are, off hand? I don't have any Fender picks here right now...I'm sure any old pick will work of course, I just want to get the shim size right. Again, thanks for your help. I'll post results once I've added the shim. If that still doesn't solve my problem(s), I might have to just return it (if that is even a possibility for me at this point). Peace.

dave b

[davebelcher98]

Oh, wait, are you referring to the larger "triangle" pick with sharp edges?

[davebelcher98]

Yeah, sorry, I will need to go pick one of those up...but I know which one you mean. Thanks.

[lonewolf]

you got it! It is a great big tortoise shell colored triangle pick. I don't think anyone uses them to play with that I have ever met, but they make a great neck shim. Get the medium one, it seems to be the correct thickness for most neck shimming situations. re-read my earlier posts, and be sure to get it in the back of the neck pocket with the widest base of the triangle closest to the bridge. It usually allows the neck mounting screws to go right beside the pick, not through it. If you have to, you can trim out some small notches for the neck screws with a pair of scissors, but in most cases you don't have to do that. Good luck.
Gene Warner
repairman

[GTRLUVR]

just my opinion, but did this seller list the tele as a all parts? because just in the first glance I could see a Birch 3 piece body. and the bridge saddle spacing looks import as well. I would return it. you can pick up those SEGA kits for $100 (junk) and you will have many more problems down the line. cheap electronics just one of them. only chimming in because, I've been there done that.;(
Neil

[davebelcher98]

Originally Posted by GTRLUVR

just my opinion, but did this seller list the tele as a all parts? because just in the first glance I could see a Birch 3 piece body. and the bridge saddle spacing looks import as well. I would return it. you can pick up those SEGA kits for $100 (junk) and you will have many more problems down the line. cheap electronics just one of them. only chimming in because, I've been there done that.;(
Neil

Yes, the guy did list it as allparts -- and continued to tell me that the guy he bought it from who built it told him it was all parts...there is no way it is Allparts (the neck heel confirmed this -- it's a Saga). I never heard back from the seller I bought it from -- I'm really quite pissed at that guy. I had no reason to trust him to begin with, but I spoke with him on the phone, and he communicated pretty clearly with me, to the point where I was convinced I could trust him; but it seems this guy was just out to get rid of the guitar and make some money (more than it was worth, I'd wager)...I know this is the kind of thing we all have to watch out for, but I just thought I could trust this guy...got jacked.

On those Saga kits, those are basswood bodies aren't they? Are there really kits out there using birch?!

Again, I really like the sound of this Tele!! Aaargh. I can't stand this situation...I just want to throw something at that guy I bought it from.

[yegbert]

Why didn't you try a longer intonation adjustment screw for the D string Graphtech saddle?

[davebelcher98]

Originally Posted by yegbert

Why didn't you try a longer intonation adjustment screw for the D string Graphtech saddle?

Well, what I did was to put the old chromes back on -- I suppose I could have used the old intonation adjustment screws for the graphtechs...and I might have to do that still. I still had the same problem.

Here's exactly what I think happened: The guitar sounded great with the old chromes on, but there were issues with the saddles -- stripped screws and holes, the High E string thing (probably due to poor saddle design more than anything), and then I put the graphtechs on, which were meant for a different kind of or perhaps different sized bridge (?)...when I investigated the problem, I had the strings off, and removed the neck to see if there was a shim in there...I think this is what then caused the muffled high strings to come about -- either the neck was overtightened (I didn't put it back on, the guy at the local guitar shop wanted to take a look at the neck pocket, removed it and put it back on), or something like that which didn't allow for the kind of snug fit that it had prior to its removal. That's my guess at least.

[Oldschoolwax]

Man, if this wasn't an E-bay deal and you don't have any recourse ( did you pay with a Postal money order, if so it's Federal Mail Fraud! ) even if it was a Craig's List or local paper deal and you used a Postal Money Order it's a big time crime!

Worst case scenario, you have to learn how to measure and place a bridge, you need to drill the outside string through holes first, as straight as possible right down through ( top front to back ), then do the middle four ( again front to back ) 3/4 the way through. Flip it to the back and use the bridge spacing as a template, drill to connect, maybe a bit crookedly, the middle four, it may not be too pretty unless you have a nice deep drill press! ) insert string ferrels.

If you want to go this rout and have no cash I will send you my old 72 Tele Custom RI bridge, it's a bit rusty and has steel saddles... not compensated, but two strings per saddle plus the string through the body will bring up your resonance. The free floating off center pull is what's deadening that crap bridge, shimming and all will help, but I think it may be a compromise between bass and treble side..

Try to send this back, you can buy a new Squire CV 50's tele for 260 delivered! The price is down you just need to call them and make the deal...

But If you can't I'll gladly send you my old bridge!

~Michael

PS, being thaT your screws are stripping the wood, when you take the screws out, soak the holes in super glue and let them dry overnight, the ones that are already stripped out, do the same with a bit of toothpick in... just to give yourself some bite. BUT TRY TO RETURN THAT!

[davebelcher98]

Thanks Michael. Yeah, I've contacted the seller again, this time a bit more firmly. I really think I would like to convert it to a string-through bridge, but there's only one issue -- maybe you have some advice for this: the crappy bridge on there right now is a three-hole mounted bridge, whereas all others (literally every tele bridge that has good saddle alignment!) are four-hole...will that be difficult for me? Would I need to fill in all three holes, and then start from scratch? Or, would it likely only require me filling in the middle hole and drilling the two new inner holes? Really, what would be best in this deal is if the seller would just give me $100 back to get the thing professionally taken care of, otherwise I'd return it...that of course will never happen, though it seems like the "right" course of action in my mind...especially given that he tried to give me the once over on this one...not cool.

But, given that I do go that route, and it is relatively easy for me to do (I have some experience with this stuff, just still a "novice" at guitar repair...maintenance I can do! Ha), I would love for you to send me the old 52 bridge! I really appreciate the offer! Just let me know what I would need to do (I'll of course let you know if I decide finally to return this thing if I ever hear back from this guy). Thanks again!

peace,

dave b

[davebelcher98]

Thanks Michael. Yeah, I've contacted the seller again, this time a bit more firmly. I really think I would like to convert it to a string-through bridge, but there's only one issue -- maybe you have some advice for this: the crappy bridge on there right now is a three-hole mounted bridge, whereas all others (literally every tele bridge that has good saddle alignment!) are four-hole...will that be difficult for me? Would I need to fill in all three holes, and then start from scratch? Or, would it likely only require me filling in the middle hole and drilling the two new inner holes? Really, what would be best in this deal is if the seller would just give me $100 back to get the thing professionally taken care of, otherwise I'd return it...that of course will never happen, though it seems like the "right" course of action in my mind...especially given that he tried to give me the once over on this one...not cool.

But, given that I do go that route, and it is relatively easy for me to do (I have some experience with this stuff, just still a "novice" at guitar repair...maintenance I can do! Ha), I would love for you to send me the old 52 bridge! I really appreciate the offer! Just let me know what I would need to do (I'll of course let you know if I decide finally to return this thing if I ever hear back from this guy). Thanks again!

peace,

dave b

[Oldschoolwax]

It was falsly advertised, I'd make him take it back, and send a pick up tag for it... like I said you can get a Squire CV for that cash! and it's a 72 Ri bridge, have to dig it out, it's non compensated but I'll try and dig it our this weekend. I would push, to have it taken back and your money returned first! But if you get stuck, You'd have to lay out the new bridge over your old body, take pictures and let us advise you from there. If you were local, we'd just sit in my living room and rebuild it over a pizza, but... we're not that close! =)

[davebelcher98]

Originally Posted by Oldschoolwax

It was falsly advertised, I'd make him take it back, and send a pick up tag for it... like I said you can get a Squire CV for that cash! and it's a 72 Ri bridge, have to dig it out, it's non compensated but I'll try and dig it our this weekend. I would push, to have it taken back and your money returned first! But if you get stuck, You'd have to lay out the new bridge over your old body, take pictures and let us advise you from there. If you were local, we'd just sit in my living room and rebuild it over a pizza, but... we're not that close! =)

Rebuilding this thing over pizza sounds good! But, seriously, I appreciate all the help and advice all of you guys have offered here. If I can't get this guy to take the dang thing back and give me my money back, then I am confident that y'all can help me out with my project! Peace.

dave b

[davebelcher98]

Hey Michael, if you dig up the old bridge and are able to send it to me, I'd really appreciate it. I think I've discovered a solution: I had a thought on my way to the small shop today where I bought the graphtechs: the guy said he wouldn't be able to do a cash return, but he could do store credit; so I asked him today if he'd be willing to do the string-through conversion and 4-hole attachment conversion for me for the store credit value of the graphtechs (again, I payed like $40 for those things!)...he said Yep. So, if you can send me the bridge, I am positive I can solve all of my issues all at once! Again, I'd be very grateful. Here's my email address for more details: j.david.belcher@gmail.com

Thanks again!!!

dave b

[davebelcher98]

Originally Posted by Oldschoolwax

It was falsly advertised, I'd make him take it back, and send a pick up tag for it... like I said you can get a Squire CV for that cash! and it's a 72 Ri bridge, have to dig it out, it's non compensated but I'll try and dig it our this weekend. I would push, to have it taken back and your money returned first! But if you get stuck, You'd have to lay out the new bridge over your old body, take pictures and let us advise you from there. If you were local, we'd just sit in my living room and rebuild it over a pizza, but... we're not that close! =)

I finally heard back from the guy, who refuses to take it back, because he says I've done an "amateur hack job" to the guitar! I specified to the guy that I have made absolutely zero modifications to the guitar -- after changing the saddles, I put the old ones back on -- and that I was experiencing the exact same problems that I first noted in my email to him when I received the guitar and strung it up before I ever made any adjustments -- even a setup -- to the guitar. I don't know that I have the money to take this guy to court (don't even have the cash for a pro setup!!), but God do I want to now after this. I explained to him that he falsely advertised the guitar as an Allparts guitar, when in fact it was a Saga kit...I doubt I'll hear anything back from him, save for some quippy nasty response as he just sent me. Man, this has been a headache.

Michael, I think your 72 bridge might be my solution though! Let me know if you are unable to find it or if it will be too much trouble -- I certainly don't want to put anyone else out for my own problem...again, the only person who should be "put out" for this is the guy who ripped me off.

dave

[Oldschoolwax]

Is he in NY? I could fine tune him with the working end of my Tele for ya! PM me your name and shipping address I'll put it in a box and send it out!

~Michael

[Oldschoolwax]

Sent out the Bridge today, it's got real punk rock sweat rust on it, adds mojo! =) not like that fake stuff, this ones seen it share of bloody knuckles from over exuberant strumming... I hope it does you justice! Enjoy!

~Michael

[davebelcher98]

Originally Posted by Oldschoolwax

Sent out the Bridge today, it's got real punk rock sweat rust on it, adds mojo! =) not like that fake stuff, this ones seen it share of bloody knuckles from over exuberant strumming... I hope it does you justice! Enjoy!

~Michael

Well, once again, I gotta give major props to Michael to sending me his 72 RI bridge! Mucho thanks for that once again!

I'll have some pics to send soon (dang my camera needs a new battery!), but I wanted to give a quick update and thank all y'all again for all of your help. The guitar now has string-through bridge with ferrules and four-hole bridge attachment. The ferrule holes in the back aren't exactly dead-straight, but that shouldn't be too big a deal. The action on the bridge Michael sent me was nice and low with lots of spank, which is good cause I can't really get the low E string saddel height screw to move! I may still find some brass compensated saddles to put on this at a later time, but this thing is back to playing as it was when it first arrived without the annoying buzz and saddle problems!! Amazing! I may also try to get an Mp3 sample or two out, cause this thing does sound pretty dang good. Regardless, thanks to everybody to much sound advice and helping me to get my Tele up and running...finally!

peace,

dave b

[davebelcher98]

Something that is still bothering me about this guitar, though....

While the "muffled" sound I described on the G, B, and E strings is certainly not as prevalent as before, I still recognize it there to an extent, and the high E string still just sounds kind of dead to me...it rings just a bit more than it was doing before, but I gotta say, I've played a lot of Tele's and one of my favorite things about a Tele is the way a high E string will just ring for days! There is hardly any better sound on a Tele in my mind than an open A chord in first position...but with a deadened high E string...all that flavor is just lost.

Could this be a problem with the nut? Could it need deeper or maybe slightly wider slots? Perhaps a new nut altogether? I still just don't get this guitar...I like it...and yet...it's just not up to snuff. I am somewhat confident that a totally flat Taipan bridge with excellent body contact and stellar Glendale intone saddles would still not give me that high E string "ring" I so desperately want and need.

Any more ideas here? I mean, I've narrowed things down pretty significantly at this point by converting to a string-through bridge with better tensioned balance on the saddles...so, I'm kind of wondering if it's either the nut or maybe an issue with the neck pocket...I don't know. Thanks in advance for all of your help.

[davebelcher98]

And I should add that I understand I'm working with a cheap guitar, but I'm not complaining that this cheap guitar doesn't sound like a '52 vintage Tele or something...in my mind, the "muffled" kind of sound I'm getting here is contrary to what any guitar should sound like when properly setup. Obviously, then, I have a setup issue somewhere...thoughts?

[Oldschoolwax]

The angle of the sting cut in the nut might not be sharp enough, making the e string leave solid contact with the nut before the edge. It could be.... sorry one of the saddle height screws was frozen,, ( did I mention the blood and sweat! =) ) anyway, perhaps a little dot of Kroil or something on the screw head every once in a while might loosen it up, if not I'm sure it could be "unscrewed" from the bottom, with some vice grips and replaced, or just given a turn or two to get it where you need it.if the nut is loos when you slack the strings, you could try shimming it up and seeing if this changes the way ths string rings, that might let you know if it's the nut itself you're dealing with. Anyway, glad you've at least got a playing tele again. Enjoy, and make it your own! I think that's what it wants! =)