I NEED HELP!

[talibanhunter]

I've just purchased a new Stainless steel bridge to replace my old die cast one. Both bridges are modern style bridges but the new one does not line up on my guitar. I knew that i would have to drill two holes on top due to my old bridge not having any screws there but the three screws on the bottom don't line up either. All three holes on the bottom are just barely hidden under the bridge. What should I fill these holes with that will be strong enough to withstand a new hole right next to it? Also, is there any specific way I should drill the holes? Thanks.

[charlie chitlin]

You might have a bridge made for a MIA, and you have a MIM...or something like that.
The different factories put holes in different places.
I would always get the right part before drilling new holes.
But you could certainly make plugs, press/glue them in and re-drill.

[e-merlin]

Can you post before pics so we can see the difference? How about a pic without a bridge to see what holes are there?

[jwells393]

Your new bridge probably shouldn't fit into the pickguard notch like your picture shows it. Back it off some and you might not even have to fill the old holes.

If you need to plug the old holes, drill them to the size of the dowel you plan to glue in. To cut the dowels flush, get yourself a hack saw blade. Determine which end will cut on the pull stroke. If you have an anvil or a vice, hammer the teeth on that end flat to remove the set. You now have a saw that will cut flush without cutting into the surface of the guitar.

[charlie chitlin]

Could you elaborate on the hacksaw blade thing?
I'm not familiar with the term "set".
Is that the sort of wave of the blade?
I could see how flattening that out would preserve the finish.
---Also...I think Mr. Wells is on the right track as usual.
Maybe the problem is the pickguard.
The holes might line up if it's not in the way.
I'd sure rather trim a pickguard than drill holes in a body.
And if that bridge plate is stainless, it can be shaped and polished/buffed back to a mirror being that it probably isn't plated.

[mellecaster]

Have you considered that you ordered the wrong bridge, and that's why it doesn't fit ?

[yegbert]

If that bridge plate doesn't have holes for loading the strings through the back of the body, it may be the same spec used for a current production Squier Affinity Tele.

If it does have holes for loading the strings through the back of the body, it may be the same spec used for a current production Squier Standard Tele.

The stock Squier Affinity saddles, intonation screws and intonation screw springs have the same shiny look (like stainless steel) as those in the picture. The stock Squier Standard saddles have a satin finish with a hint of tan color to them, and have black intonation screws and springs. There's a minor difference between those two Squier bridge plates' screw holes, with the Affinity plate having a longer spread from the top set to the bottom set, so they aren't interchangeable.

What make and model guitar are you trying to put this bridge on? Where did you get this replacement bridge?

[pengipete]

Is this your s101? I looked at some pictures of the s101 bridgeplate and it looks a fair bit longer - if that's the case it may be useful to give measurements cos they may mean something to one of the experts.

[Ricky D.]

Originally Posted by jwells393

...If you need to plug the old holes, drill them to the size of the dowel you plan to glue in. To cut the dowels flush, get yourself a hack saw blade. Determine which end will cut on the pull stroke. If you have an anvil or a vice, hammer the teeth on that end flat to remove the set. You now have a saw that will cut flush without cutting into the surface of the guitar.

Nice one!

[ronnes]

try to measure from the nut to saddles that you have 25,5", i mounted a humbucker bridge in mine and i had to file the slot where the bridgeplate sits in the pickguard wider. what kind of bridge is it? looks almost identically like mine only difference is single coil instead of humbucker.

use wood chips that fit in the screwholes and fill the holes with woodglue if you are going to use that bridge, just be sure the scale is right and the bridgeplate is aligned. no biggie

[yegbert]

If it's an S101 that had a bridge like the one in this auction and in the attached picture, the screw hole placement of the stock bridge looks like that of an early '80s revised standard, American Standard, early '90s MIM toploader, and some Squiers made before 2000.

And then it is understandable that the holes of this replacement bridge wouldn't align.

What is your goal that you think replacing the bridge helps you achieve?

[mellecaster]

I reckon he's out Huntin the Taliban ???

[talibanhunter]

Sorry I couldn't get back to you guys earlier I've been playing in the sand all day. Yes, this bridge was supposed to be a replacement for my s101 tele (just like the one above) but turns out i just completely bought the wrong bridge (this is a string through bridge...i feel so stupid lol) I have about 15 mins on a comp a day so i bought the bridge in a hurry. I wanted to get rid of my crappy diecasts s101 tele bridge but havent had too much luck finding a toploader steel replacement. I don't want to spend anymore than 30 bucks or something since this guitar is just a beater. If you guys know where i can buy a ss bridge for 30 bucks or around there or maybe some steel saddles let me know. Thanks guys!

[yegbert]

talibanhunter,

I doubt you'll find a stainless steel bridge; or any bridge that will different than the one you have and be a drop-in replacement for your guitar body (no filling and redrilling holes); for anywhere close to $30.

If you're up to filling and drilling holes though, a Wilkinson by Sung-Il bridge (here's one, here's another) has a steel (but probably not stainless steel) plate, brass saddles, is a toploader, and is within your budget.