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| Tele-Tech Telecaster nuts and bolts talk ONLY |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Freehold NJ
Age: 48
Posts: 175
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Using USA Electronics & Switch in CV Tele???
Will the depth of a CV Tele control plate cavity accommodate USA electronics, especially a USA 3 way switch or does it need to be routed deeper? Is the physical footprint of a USA Tele control plate similar or are other mods required (doweling/redrilling)? If figured since my Xmas CVT was a MF S&D where both pots didn't seem to work properly (i.e. 'always fully 'on' regardless of knob position), I's swap them for better components.
I love this axe.........
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"Well I got this guitar and I learned how to make it talk..." Last edited by rob5755; January 6th, 2009 at 05:14 PM. Reason: 2nd thoughts |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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I have just received a Allparts order to do exactly as you describe: electrical bling. I also recvd a set of Keystone KT pickups.
Before I try my shaky soldering skills and begin my education (Old School Guitar Mods 101), I will try the parts out to see if the routing is deep enough. One problem, the CV control plate has holes in metric to suit the non-US pots. You may want to file them out a little to suit US pots. (I think that right). Rethinking my mods, I will order a us plate already loaded and remove the CV electrics/control plate/pups as a unit and keep it all as a backup. As for rout depth, I can check that right away: The routing is deep, it looks as though it would be dangerous to go deeper, you may go thru and make a hole in the back of the body. Neck end of the routing (usual switch position) is 35mm deep. Bridge end of the routing is 33mm deep. Trying out my CRL USA 3 way i see the following: a. The neck end of the routing is plenty deep enough, room for wiring too. There is about 2-3mm air under the switch. b. The bridge end of the routing is too tight, room for the CRL but only just -its tight, no clearance. ---------------added this later post for clarity: Quote:
In a CV Tele, a CRL 3 way and the 2 std pots will fit the cavity, with the switch "at the neck end" orientation or "at the rear end" orientation. (No bottoming out at either end). By "std pots" I am saying that my pots are not std (they have 2 orange caps or whatever soldered on top of them) and they bottom out in the CV's Central Cavity Area which is like a deck between 2 "pools" at each end of the cavity.. I will get a pic of the Callaham Reverse Esquire loaded Control Plate to show what I'm up against. Incidentally, the 4-way Oak Grigsby switch is either shorter or taller than the CRL, I forget which. For the record, I think we should note if it fits. Last edited by Carzee; January 18th, 2009 at 04:46 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Anchorage, AK
Age: 29
Posts: 287
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Yeah, I just swapped my pots out with push/pulls and the switch on the tone pot sat right on top of that raised area in the cavity, probably 1/4" or so. Fortunately it was an easy fix, just cleared it out with my trusty dremel. It's hidden by the control panel, so looks don't count, right?
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