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#1 (permalink) |
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NEW MEMBER!
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 5
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Tru-Oil / Amber Tint help
I troll these pages on a daily basis, but this is my first real post. Hopefully you guys can help me out as I haven't found a definitive answer via the search.
I have 2 Tele necks (maple) that are matte finished and I was wondering if I can add amber tint and then Tru-Oil without stripping to the bare wood. Any help would be appreciated! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New York
Age: 33
Posts: 166
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idea
If you scuff up your matte finish with some 220 sandpaper, and spray some amber shellac, that should work. I have done tru-oil before, but had much better luck spraying deft nitro (on top of shellac coat.) I'm not a fan of anything you don't 'spray' on. IMHO, spraying is the way to got, much less margin for error. YMMV
__________________
"Ahh...this is a blues riff in B, watch me for the changes, and try and keep up." |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hemlock, NY
Age: 54
Posts: 342
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I don't know about tru oil, but my buddy made a mahogany body and put aniline dye on it followed by some danish oil finish. The red would bleed through the tung oil and get on you. I'd try it on scrap first.
Marty |
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#6 (permalink) |
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NEW MEMBER!
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 5
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I read Houndogs's tutorial, which I found very informative, but he doesn't mention anything about applying Tru-Oil over a matte finished neck. I have since scoured the forum pages over at the Re-Ranch site and found that it's recommended that you have a thin layer of clear-coat before applying the RR Amber Clear Coat, and then you can add the Tru-Oil, but you'll need to strip the neck if using a water-based tint. I welcome any corrections if I'm wrong (which I very well could be).
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#7 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Age: 47
Posts: 928
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Yeah but when they recommend clear first, that's over bare wood. It's to keep the color from soaking in in case you want to try something else. You can wipe it off with a rag instead of having to sand the color out of the neck's wood. Since yours is already coated that's not a problem. However you may want to shoot nitro clear over what you have. I know the RR neck amber does indeed work well over nitro. It may run or blotch up over poly. You can always try it and see for yourself. It will just wipe off if there is a problem.
Reranch stuff is highly regarded. The problem is it's highly priced and lots of us try to find something as good for less. I haven't been able to and have come to despise Deft. Looks like my Deft neck and body are going to need to cure for a couple of years. I'm working on a tru-oil neck now. Things I've learned is that it's going to be great on the back of the neck. It's made a mess on the fingerboard and I'm having a real hard time getting it cleaned up. This taught me something I should have known after all these years. I need to stick with rosewood. If this thing had not needed the fingerboard done I would have just done the rest of the whole thing with tru-oil and loved it. Instead I have a sticky Deft headstock and heel, a silky smooth tru-oil back of the neck and a gooy fingerboard.
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#8 (permalink) |
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NEW MEMBER!
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 5
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Old Cane - What was the problem with Tru-Oil on the fretboard? I've taken steel-wool to both necks, but I still haven't decided to what I want to do with either one them. One already has the typical high gloss finish, with some natural aging, but I'd like a smooth fretboard. The other is a new MIM with the standard bleached maple matte finish. I happy with the way the neck feels, but would like a little color. I appreciate all the advise guys!
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