OK, What bit to route F-hole??

robt57 · July 14th, 2008, 08:30 PM

Will get there tomorrow on these 2 thinline bodies...

Me tinks I am short a small radius bit for the task, with a bearing I mean..

jwells393 · July 14th, 2008, 08:43 PM

I don't think any such bearing bit exists. A 1/4 in straight bit can be used. Pre-drill to remove much of the wood, and adjust the depth of the 1/4 in. bit so the shaft of the bit rides on the template. Essentially the bit shaft acts as a bearing.

guitarbuilder · July 14th, 2008, 09:20 PM

On the couple of thinlines I've made, I've used the smaller dia stewmac bit( 3/8) and then filed out the area that it can't get into. That worked pretty well.
Marty

e-merlin · July 14th, 2008, 10:50 PM

I think the proper bit would be a scroll saw.

Assuming you haven't glued the top on yet!

robt57 · July 14th, 2008, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e-merlin

I think the proper bit would be a scroll saw.

Assuming you haven't glued the top on yet!

Better cut it before I glue the top on, eh? ;)

jwells393 · July 15th, 2008, 04:36 AM

A scroll saw would be good to rough cut the F-hole but you need to rout it for a good look. Here's the bit I mentioned above.

......

Nick JD · July 15th, 2008, 05:07 AM

This one has a drill tip for easy starting. 3/4" cutting length, 1/4" diameter flute and shaft (shaft used as pilot). Freud 26-100. Ten bucks.

martyb1 · July 15th, 2008, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwells393

A scroll saw would be good to rough cut the F-hole but you need to rout it for a good look. Here's the bit I mentioned above.

......

I have used these,just like Jack,but on the last two I did I used a 1/4 flush trim bit

Mounted in the router table with the template on top for the bearing to run on.The bearing just fits through the narrowest part.

I used a 1/4" thick template

And cut it out before I glue the top on.I do also use a drill to remove the majority of the material first

Ironwolf · July 15th, 2008, 09:35 AM

I used the 1/4" straight, same as Jwells. Routed after the top was mounted, got everything clean, just had to go around the edges with an emory board.

jwells393 · July 15th, 2008, 10:34 AM

Hmmm ........ So that's what it looks like Marty.

robt57 · July 15th, 2008, 12:29 PM

Well thank for all the input folks. I decided in fact to cot them pprior to gluing. Just one extra stop gap in case. Easier to make another top than to toss a whole body. ;) Or should I say repair and make a painted one? ;)

Ron suggested in a PM to use, well... here's a paste from the message:
"use a 1/4 spiral bit. I chuck it so there's about 1/2 inch of the shank to ride on the template, allowing the cutting edge to shape the hole."

Ciao, Robt

guitarbuilder · July 15th, 2008, 07:10 PM

Hmmmm...Do I smell melted plastic? LOL.
Marty

e-merlin · July 16th, 2008, 12:25 AM

Cool! Glad I tuned into this thread. Lots of good info.

old_picker · July 16th, 2008, 07:02 PM

1/4" straight flute is what i use
start of shaft rests on the template
cut out what you can with brad points b4 you start
piece of cake
do it after the top is glued no worries

July 14th, 2008, 08:30 PM	#1 (permalink)
robt57 Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Lost Yankee in Nashville Age: 51 Posts: 3,740 21 Photos	OK, What bit to route F-hole?? Will get there tomorrow on these 2 thinline bodies... Me tinks I am short a small radius bit for the task, with a bearing I mean.. __________________ Leo's Great, Leo's Good, let us thank him for our... Twang!

July 14th, 2008, 08:43 PM	#2 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 64 Posts: 12,253 101 Photos	I don't think any such bearing bit exists. A 1/4 in straight bit can be used. Pre-drill to remove much of the wood, and adjust the depth of the 1/4 in. bit so the shaft of the bit rides on the template. Essentially the bit shaft acts as a bearing. __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras. Last edited by jwells393; July 14th, 2008 at 09:44 PM.

July 15th, 2008, 04:36 AM	#6 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 64 Posts: 12,253 101 Photos	A scroll saw would be good to rough cut the F-hole but you need to rout it for a good look. Here's the bit I mentioned above. ...... __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras.

July 15th, 2008, 05:07 AM	#7 (permalink)
Nick JD Friend of Leo's Join Date: May 2007 Location: North NSW, Australia Age: 36 Posts: 2,597	This one has a drill tip for easy starting. 3/4" cutting length, 1/4" diameter flute and shaft (shaft used as pilot). Freud 26-100. Ten bucks. __________________

July 15th, 2008, 09:35 AM	#9 (permalink)
Ironwolf Tele-Meister Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Boise, Idaho Age: 52 Posts: 447	I used the 1/4" straight, same as Jwells. Routed after the top was mounted, got everything clean, just had to go around the edges with an emory board. __________________ Oderint Dum Metuant - Nero Caesar

July 14th, 2008, 09:20 PM	#3 (permalink)
guitarbuilder Tele-Meister Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Hemlock, NY Age: 54 Posts: 342	On the couple of thinlines I've made, I've used the smaller dia stewmac bit( 3/8) and then filed out the area that it can't get into. That worked pretty well. Marty

July 15th, 2008, 10:34 AM	#10 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 64 Posts: 12,253 101 Photos	Hmmm ........ So that's what it looks like Marty. __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras.

July 15th, 2008, 12:29 PM	#11 (permalink)
robt57 Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Lost Yankee in Nashville Age: 51 Posts: 3,740 21 Photos	Well thank for all the input folks. I decided in fact to cot them pprior to gluing. Just one extra stop gap in case. Easier to make another top than to toss a whole body. ;) Or should I say repair and make a painted one? ;) Ron suggested in a PM to use, well... here's a paste from the message: "use a 1/4 spiral bit. I chuck it so there's about 1/2 inch of the shank to ride on the template, allowing the cutting edge to shape the hole." Ciao, Robt __________________ Leo's Great, Leo's Good, let us thank him for our... Twang!

July 15th, 2008, 07:10 PM	#12 (permalink)
guitarbuilder Tele-Meister Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Hemlock, NY Age: 54 Posts: 342	Hmmmm...Do I smell melted plastic? LOL. Marty

July 16th, 2008, 07:02 PM	#14 (permalink)
old_picker Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 453	1/4" straight flute is what i use start of shaft rests on the template cut out what you can with brad points b4 you start piece of cake do it after the top is glued no worries __________________ ray