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Old July 14th, 2008, 03:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Removing Sanding Sealer

Hey folks. I have an "unfinished" Allparts neck that won't absorb any oil finish. I assume they used some sort of sanding sealer.

Anybody know what it is or how to remove it?

Thanks,
--Rob
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Old July 14th, 2008, 03:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Madison WI eh?

Is that research reactor still there?

Maybe some time in a neutron stream...

All seriousness aside, to get it all off, I think you are going to have to resort to some physical process...a combination of sanding and scraping.

You might want to consider "Plan B."
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Old July 14th, 2008, 04:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd use 220 and/or 320. At least, that's what i do when I spray the stuff on and level it. It seems to sand off pretty easily.
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Old July 14th, 2008, 04:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey Bucko, hadn't realized we were neighbors! Yup, the reactor is still there. Stranger yet, my mom was going to high school at the Univ of Chicago lab school during the time when THEIR research reactor was hidden under the football stadium. I always wondered if there were a lot of Chicago footballers with cancer later on.

Anyhow, back on topic, I was afraid y'all would say that. I was really hoping to scrub it out with acetone or something. Getting between the frets is gonna SUUUUUUUUCK.

Thanks,
--Rob
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Old July 14th, 2008, 07:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I forget exactly what all parts uses, but it's not sanding sealer. I think it's made out of rhinoceros hide oil or something that's biologically engineered to be indestructible. I think you have to use kryptonite tipped drill bits on it ;-)
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Old July 14th, 2008, 09:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, eryque, I think you might be confirming my suspicion that it's actually wood hardener, which is a highly thinned epoxy. This means acetone MIGHT get it off. Maybe I'll try a little experiment on the heel, where it will be invisible in case I'm dreadfully wrong. --Rob
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Old July 15th, 2008, 11:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Nope. Acetone and a toothbrush takes off a little surface sheen, but this stuff goes DEEP. Even 150 grit paper didn't make a very big difference. Maybe I'll try a little dot of p[aint stripper next. This stuff seems to be only on the fingerboard, so I would not be at all surprised if it is indeed wood hardener. I am beginning to fear that by the time I get deep enough to stain this stuff I'll need to just plane it off and glue on a slab of rosewood anyhow!
--Rob
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Old July 15th, 2008, 05:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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What type of finish are you trying to apply ?...Be specific
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Old July 15th, 2008, 05:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I say fagitoboudit. It's not worth the effort. Do a lacquer finish and sand or steel wool it if you don't like the glossy look and feel.
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Old July 15th, 2008, 09:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I was going for thinned linseed with a little stain in it. But it won't soak in. Mostly just looking for a little color, since the fingerboard looks wildly too white compared to the body. But I think I have this figured out. Careful work with a propane torch on low adds color relatively nicely. Pix later. --Rob
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Old July 15th, 2008, 11:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robrohdeszudy View Post
I was going for thinned linseed with a little stain in it. But it won't soak in. Mostly just looking for a little color, since the fingerboard looks wildly too white compared to the body. But I think I have this figured out. Careful work with a propane torch on low adds color relatively nicely. Pix later. --Rob
This could prove to be interesting......
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Old July 16th, 2008, 04:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Torched neck?, pics please!
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Old July 18th, 2008, 04:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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OK, check it out in my build thread: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaste...ml#post1340998
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Old July 18th, 2008, 04:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Careful work with a propane torch on low adds color relatively nicely.
That should be interesting indeed. Seems like squirting a little Behlens tinted lacquer would be easier and maybe a more uniform color.
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