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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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"Rolling" Neck Edges ???
I know what it is, but how is it done "properly"?
I'm about to hit the edges of my new rosewood with some 600 grit wet & dry and polish off with some 1200, but was just wondering if there was another way, like actually rolling the edge with a dowell or some such thing. Just wondering.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
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Quote:
I used some 320 grit paper to do mine. Others have had good luck using a razor blade as a scraper or using something like the round shaft of a screwdriver to burnish like you suggested. The burnishing method is the only one that has a chance of working in a way that won't make you touch up the finish, but I think you'll still need to anyway. I have a new (to me) Baja that I'd like to roll the edges, but have held off because of the finish issue.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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I rolled my '72 Deluxe neck with the shaft of a screwdriver (take your time, be patient!) Worked great! If you go slow you can compress the wood with minimal effect on the finish.
Edit: I just re-read your post and see that you have a rosewood fretboard. Mine was maple, so maybe it's different for rosewood. I would think it would be easier, since there's not a finish on it.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
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Rosewood boards usually have finish on the edges, but it's good to know that the burnishing method can be done without damaging the finish. That might be my project for this week.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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Thanks guys.
Mine is an unfinished neck for a partscaster I'm putting together, so the finish isn't an issue. I'll give the screwdriver a whirl and see how it goes. As soon as the body arrives I'll start getting it together, and of course start posting some pics ! Thanks again.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mint Hill, NC
Age: 62
Posts: 5,968
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Rich Rice once told me *never* sand the frets -- just use the screwdriver method, or you'll open a can of worms. he's been around the block enough that i listened to him, with good results.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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Thanks Woodman.
Geez, I just noticed the time where you guys are ... don't you ever sleep !!!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Yeah ........ I'd like to know about that can of worms too. I think on a rolled edge neck the edges are rounded before the frets are installed. However I don't see why you couldn't use a sanding block on a fretted neck and round the edges and frets then go back and touch up the fret ends with a file.
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Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ ![]() Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
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Quote:
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Looks like you're right. I just read that Musikraft does it after the neck is fretted. So ......... it sounds like my idea of running a sanding block down the edge sanding both neck and frets is how it's done.
Quote:
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Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ ![]() Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Rather than a sharp corner where the face of the fretboard meets the side of the neck, you have a slight radius.
......
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Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ ![]() Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
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Thanks for posting those pictures. I see one big difference between the way some folks do it and the way I do it. The way I roll the edges is to simulate the sort of wear that would come from playing. Since you don't wear away the ends of the frets when you play it, I sand between the frets. The edge of the fretboard gets kind of a scalloped look, and you don't lose any of the playing surface on the frets.
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#16 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
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I am of the razorblade, file, sandpaper and buff school.
If you take your time and go through the various grits of sandpaper, then buff it, it looks like 30 years of real player wear. Feels great also. Roman
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Factories build guitars for profit, Luthiers build them for players |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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You take a screwdriver with a round shank .......... like a phillips. You press the round shank hard against the sharp corner running it back and forth between the frets compressing the wood and leaving a rounded corner. Works well on a rosewood fretboard. Not sure how well it works on a finished maple board.
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Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" _ ![]() Guys - learn to disable the flash on your digital cameras. |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
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#22 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
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I must say I am pleasantly surprised. An old dog has learned new tricks!!
I tried the screwdriver trick on a fingerboard I am doing. Braz with quilted maple binding. It worked like a charm!
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Factories build guitars for profit, Luthiers build them for players |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: sydney
Posts: 293
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iv done it on a few rosewood fretboards...
rosewood is like butter.... theres nothing to it... a few goes with a half rounded file.... then play the guitar for a few days... repeat the filing and play it again.... turns out great... as for maple... iv never done it to a maple neck... but i have an ibanez i have played almost everyday for 4 or 5 years lol.... that things maple neck is black along the edges... natural roll nothing compares :) |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Delaware
Age: 17
Posts: 242
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This sounds like a good idea, if you used some sort of stiff shoelace and pulled it very taught across the edge of the board, you could just slide it back and forth. This would certainly make it easier to create a smooth edge than a screwdriver.
I've used the screwdriver method on my SG months ago, worked pretty well. I only chipped the lacquer in one place and it is very very tiny (however this was all on finished binding, not actual wood).
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