Anyone finish a neck with Minwax rattle-can poly?

mlp-mx6 · May 26th, 2008, 04:53 PM

I scanned, but did not find any reference.

I recall an OLD post on the original TDP where he said his favorite finish for a neck was the old Flecto Varathane spray, which is just a spray poly in a can. So I'm wondering if anyone has finished a maple neck (with rosewood board) with this style of finish. It seems that it would be more durable than lacquer, and would yellow nicely. Anyone?

Thanks,
Michael

Axis29 · May 26th, 2008, 06:21 PM

It probably won't yellow at all... not for years! That's one of the big complaints guys have with polyurethane on new instruments.

I use it all the time on furniture. It's very sturdy, very wear resistant... and very clear. There is no yellow hue to it at all. If anything it has a slight blue cast (Check out old Fine Woodworking issues where they go over polyurethane finishes).

However, if you wanted a vintage looking tint, throw some amber shellac underneath then shoot it with poly.

reddogbass · May 27th, 2008, 08:10 AM

I don't care for the Min-Wax poly spray as a neck finish. I tried one, and wasn't pleased. First it doesn't go on without some orange peel, so it needs a fair bit of finish work. Second, it's not a good feel. Once you get it smooth and glossy, it's "sticky." It is durable though.

A better poly neck finish IMO is the "Rub-On." But nothing beats lacquer. That's my experience at least.

mlp-mx6 · May 27th, 2008, 09:00 AM

Thanks, folks. I'm going to stick with lacquer. I'm familiar with it, and comfortable with it - both from an application perspective and a player perspective.

I have finished a maple amp head with that poly, and it is TOUGH. Tough to buff out too, but I did get a pretty good shine out of it.

cook · May 27th, 2008, 02:03 PM

I refinished the back of a Squier strat rosewood board neck and also a no- name maple board tele neck with Minwax fast- drying satin poly. They are both less sticky than my nitro finished necks, but maybe the low humidity here has some effect.

I don't like thick finishes, so both necks got 5 coats on the back, and the tele neck got 3 coats over the fretboard. I was able to rub out easily after 3 days, and even though satin, they got shiny. The maple also got darker. The label also says not to use it over white surfaces because of "ambering" effect. However, over the past year there has been little additional darkening, but I still like it. The minimal coating on the fretboard is also slowly relicing to a nice effect.

Rob DiStefano · May 28th, 2008, 07:01 AM

Min-Wax Fast Drying PolyU is one of the best and easiest neck (or body) clear coats to use. WARM THE CAN BEFORE SPRAYING. Learn how to properly spray and heed the air temp and humidity. Tint/stain the neck (or body) before spraying on the clear coats.

May 26th, 2008, 04:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
mlp-mx6 TDPRI Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Atlanta Posts: 68	Anyone finish a neck with Minwax rattle-can poly? I scanned, but did not find any reference. I recall an OLD post on the original TDP where he said his favorite finish for a neck was the old Flecto Varathane spray, which is just a spray poly in a can. So I'm wondering if anyone has finished a maple neck (with rosewood board) with this style of finish. It seems that it would be more durable than lacquer, and would yellow nicely. Anyone? Thanks, Michael

May 26th, 2008, 06:21 PM	#2 (permalink)
Axis29 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Virginia, USA Age: 40 Posts: 1,046 1 Photos	It probably won't yellow at all... not for years! That's one of the big complaints guys have with polyurethane on new instruments. I use it all the time on furniture. It's very sturdy, very wear resistant... and very clear. There is no yellow hue to it at all. If anything it has a slight blue cast (Check out old Fine Woodworking issues where they go over polyurethane finishes). However, if you wanted a vintage looking tint, throw some amber shellac underneath then shoot it with poly. __________________ John F. TDPRI # 1764

May 27th, 2008, 08:10 AM	#3 (permalink)
reddogbass Tele-Holic Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Portland, Oregon Age: 61 Posts: 572 5 Photos	I don't care for the Min-Wax poly spray as a neck finish. I tried one, and wasn't pleased. First it doesn't go on without some orange peel, so it needs a fair bit of finish work. Second, it's not a good feel. Once you get it smooth and glossy, it's "sticky." It is durable though. A better poly neck finish IMO is the "Rub-On." But nothing beats lacquer. That's my experience at least.

May 27th, 2008, 09:00 AM	#4 (permalink)
mlp-mx6 TDPRI Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Atlanta Posts: 68	Thanks, folks. I'm going to stick with lacquer. I'm familiar with it, and comfortable with it - both from an application perspective and a player perspective. I have finished a maple amp head with that poly, and it is TOUGH. Tough to buff out too, but I did get a pretty good shine out of it.

May 27th, 2008, 02:03 PM	#5 (permalink)
cook Tele-Meister Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: California Posts: 190 2 Photos	I refinished the back of a Squier strat rosewood board neck and also a no- name maple board tele neck with Minwax fast- drying satin poly. They are both less sticky than my nitro finished necks, but maybe the low humidity here has some effect. I don't like thick finishes, so both necks got 5 coats on the back, and the tele neck got 3 coats over the fretboard. I was able to rub out easily after 3 days, and even though satin, they got shiny. The maple also got darker. The label also says not to use it over white surfaces because of "ambering" effect. However, over the past year there has been little additional darkening, but I still like it. The minimal coating on the fretboard is also slowly relicing to a nice effect.

May 28th, 2008, 07:01 AM	#6 (permalink)
Rob DiStefano Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Park Ridge, NJ Age: 62 Posts: 4,620	Min-Wax Fast Drying PolyU is one of the best and easiest neck (or body) clear coats to use. WARM THE CAN BEFORE SPRAYING. Learn how to properly spray and heed the air temp and humidity. Tint/stain the neck (or body) before spraying on the clear coats.