The Buttercaster Project

[jwells393]

Terry Downs ............ here's a font somewhat like Buckocaster's. It's Arial Black "italicized".

...................Arial Black.jpg

[mojocasterman]

Originally Posted by del

hi first post here, been lurking around for a long time, but here are 2 "Fender" fonts :

Banff-Normal.ttf
BRUSHSCI.TTF

right klick - save as

lovely first post. Thanks for the help and welcome

[del]

woops sry, i got it wrong .. thought u were searching for the fender font, not the buttercaster font. my bad ..
thx for the welcome mojocasterman

[Jelly]

Originally Posted by Ronkirn

“Sans Serif" (Without Serif) is a descriptive term used generically to describe a style of font without the little flair things on the ends of the type strokes. Those with the Serif are Avec Serif.

Yes of course, Ron, you're absolutely right. In this case it's tricky, because they actually named the font simply "Sans Serif" I assume to avoid legal problems - I've seen the font before myself, and I think I used to own it. So in other words not just any sans serif font will do, for example "Geneva" doesn't look anything like what Buckocaster used (or what Fender uses). For that you would want to try Futura - sorry to ramble on - just trying to help match typefaces for those of you who want to get it *just right*

[mrcreed]

WOw this post inspired me for trying to build a telecaster on my own..

Thank you for the inspiration

[Ronkirn]

mrcreed. . . Just doit... you will not believe how sweet it is to play your own creation..... and you have a few hundred helpers here to get you over the speed bumps...


Ron Kirn

[andy__woods]

Still looking great Buckocaster, those bindings look incredible

[mojocasterman]

Originally Posted by mrcreed

WOw this post inspired me for trying to build a telecaster on my own..

Thank you for the inspiration

1. Definitely do it!
2. You bet we'll help if we can
3. Oh yeah, and welcome!

[Buckocaster51]

Finally tracked down some information on that font.

My main problem was that somehow FLUENT got changed into FLUID.



So there you have it.

FLUENT LASER FONTS were published by Casady & Greene up until their demise in 2003. C&G also distributed SoundJam - which as you old timers will remember - was the forerunner of iTunes!

Wikipedia Article about Casady & Greene.

It looks like those fonts MIGHT be available here.

Once again I want to thank everybody for all of the kind words.

If you are even thinking about putting a Teleguitar together, do it. You're not getting any younger you know. (At least I'm not.) There is just so much good information available as well as all sorts of high quality parts. The advice and help you can get here is fantastic. (There are even people that never post on tdpri.com that will chime in with an email or private message from time to time.)

Now enough yakking and off to work.

[Buckocaster51]

Any way that you look at it, this is an exciting sight...



The Buttercaster and the Pumpkincaster are in lacquer.

I bet you can tell which is which.

Haven't said anything about weights yet...and I won't until they are finished. Maybe we should start a pool and see who can come closest.

The winner gets to stop by and wash the NEON.



Before picture...

[kyle1167]

Hey Buck,

Mabe you've mentioned it in this thread before so forgive me if I'm making you repeat yourself. What are you doing with these beautiful guitars when your done? Are you selling them or adding to your collection?
Also what are you going with for pickguards?

That Pumpkincaster looks delicious(pun totaly intended)

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by kyle1167

...What are you doing with these beautiful guitars when your done?

Also what are you going with for pickguards?

Look too much like Fenders to sell. They'll go into the BIG pile in the corner.

All of the Pastelocasters (except the Thinlines) have WBW pickguards. These are Pastelocasters. They'll have WBW pickguards.

This is the STUPID PHOTO that started it all...



the grass was still green!

Although...I can see a Lemoncaster with a tortiseshell pickguard and tortiseshell BINDING in the future...but then I guess that would not be a Pastelocaster.

Thanks again.

[mojocasterman]

that's such a sweet pic man. You build awesome guitars. Thanks again for sharing.

[Buckocaster51]

Everything is out in the garage drying...can't do anymore spraying tonight...so it is invenTORy time (or as our friends across the pond might say inVENTory.)

Here is what I can find in the old parts box that I would actually put on a guitar these days. Quite a bit of other stuff in there - but that's what it is - stuff - some of it came from a couple of SAGA Tele kits I did a few years back - that kind of stuff.

Here is the REAL stuff:



Anybody want to make list and tell me what else I need? Pickguards for sure. Another control plate and some knobs. String trees. Strap knobs. Fortunately I already have much of the expensive stuff.

Interestingly, I found two (2) more Electro-Sockets. Drat. Now I have to put together two (2) more guitars.

And it continues to get more and more interestinger.

[tweeddeluxe]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

Interestingly, I found two (2) more Electro-Sockets. Drat. Now I have to put together two (2) more guitars.

If only wimmin understood this reasoning...

tom

[Ed P]

Just want to tip my hat to all of you who do this kind of stuff. It absolutely mystifies me and deserves so much respect.

[tdowns]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

Finally tracked down some information on that font.

My main problem was that somehow FLUENT got changed into FLUID.



So there you have it.

FLUENT LASER FONTS were published by Casady & Greene up until their demise in 2003. C&G also distributed SoundJam - which as you old timers will remember - was the forerunner of iTunes!

Wikipedia Article about Casady & Greene.

It looks like those fonts MIGHT be available here.

Once again I want to thank everybody for all of the kind words.

If you are even thinking about putting a Teleguitar together, do it. You're not getting any younger you know. (At least I'm not.) There is just so much good information available as well as all sorts of high quality parts. The advice and help you can get here is fantastic. (There are even people that never post on tdpri.com that will chime in with an email or private message from time to time.)

Now enough yakking and off to work.

Hey, thanks so much for taking time out of your busy Tele manufacturing schedule to answer silly posts like mine. I will purse a custom decal very soon on the neck I won on the TDPRI giveaway, so I wanted advice from the best.

Remember...sound bites will be required when these babies are finished!!!

Best of everything with your remaining work.

[eryque]

Originally Posted by tweeddeluxe

If only wimmin understood this reasoning...

tom

They do, though stereotypically they might apply it to dresses and shoes rather than guitars.

[tdowns]

Thanks jwells for the Arial Black [i] tip!!!

[BarnesTO]

Gettin' there and lookin' fantasitc!!

[kerc]

Bucko, this might help...The Fendet Standard Telecaster parts list: Click here to get the list in PDF format.

Parts layout diagram: Get it here in PDF format, too.

I hope this helps!

[Dr Gonzo]

good going bucko'.. seriously brilliant work!. i myself have never built a guitar BUT one is in the making!. i wanted something a bit different so i decided to take a strat shape and stick some tele parts in and hollow it out, kinda a thinline strat/tele. i don't have any photos yet but i have made a model on a program so here's a sneak preivew. The cutaways and F-hole are to be changed into something more 'traditional' and other small changes will occur. The body is made of Quatersawn Ash form touchstone tonewoods (i would recommend this site to anyone living in the UK who plans on building a guitar) anway heres the main idea of what its going to look like (attached image)... i notice that one of the cutaways is'nt quite right.. that will also be fixed.
the guitar won't be finished for a while because i use my freinds workshop to build and therefore we both can't dedicate alot of time to it which kills me.

[DrewB]

Originally Posted by Dr Gonzo

i notice that one of the cutaways is'nt quite right.. that will also be fixed.

Careful ya don't amputate somethin' on that upper horn!

[0le FUZZY]

... Looks like kandee and I wish they waz mine.



...Abb-soul-lute-lee beautiful/aw-sum werk and pixs!!!

...Thank yew sew much Buck fer takin sew much time and effort on this project and fer sharin erry liddo aspect of it with us.

0le FUZZY

[Dr Gonzo]

Originally Posted by DrewB

Careful ya don't amputate somethin' on that upper horn!

Yeh right. sorry bout that, thought that would cause some problems
with some luck it mght turn out alright, needed something more.... 'Frankenstien'

[Clive Hugh]

Originally Posted by Dr Gonzo

Yeh right. sorry bout that, thought that would cause some problems
with some luck it mght turn out alright, needed something more.... 'Frankenstien'

Shape reminds me of a Burns Bison.

[freshmattyp]

Best. Thread. Ever.

[Buckocaster51]

True Confessions Time

I thought about just doing this and not writing it up, but I've decided to just keep telling it like it happens.

I got home from work, all ready to put another coat of DEFT on the Buttercaster. Started cleaning it up real good, getting rid of some fingerprints...that kind of stuff. Then I noticed (or renoticed) a few spots where some knucklehead had scraped into the wood as said knucklehead was scraping paint from the bindings.

Those spots HAD to be there the other night when I shot the first coats of clear...but I guess they just didn't bother me.

They look like this



little blackish lines between the binding and the Butter.

Oh my!

I think I can touch them up. But touching up anything with spray KRYLON is a touchy proposition.

First thing I will do is "feather" them out with 400 grit paper.



And now, ever so cautiously, I'll try to mist in a small spot of KRYLON.



Now I'll have to let it dry until tomorrow and CAREFULLY scrape those bindings off again.

Maybe Saturday I can get back to building up the DEFT.

There, now you know it. I'm not perfect!

I checked out the Pumpkincaster and have decided that the DEFT on that needs another day before I sand down the edges and give it its (hopeful) final coats of DEFT.

['caster oil]

This is an awesome post, and I have nothing but admiration for you...

But, (and this is a big butt...)

Are you anal retentive?

Best Regards,

[BritishBluesBoy]

This the best thing I've read in years! Keep it coming!!

In fact... When you are done you should see about getting the whole thing made into a book... I'd buy a copy... I bet a lot of other tele nuts would too!!

Beautiful Work!

BBB.

['caster oil]

Me, too... where do I send the $19.95?

[kyle1167]

Originally Posted by BritishBluesBoy

This the best thing I've read in years! Keep it coming!!

In fact... When you are done you should see about getting the whole thing made into a book... I'd buy a copy... I bet a lot of other tele nuts would too!!

Beautiful Work!

BBB.

Put me down for a copy!!

[jwells393]

There, now you know it. I'm not perfect!

Man........ am I disappointed.

[milkshape]

Hey Buck,
I am impressed and inspired, it is because of your start to finish builds I joined after lurking for a month. Since reading this thread I have built a pin router, made some MDF templates, and put about 20 holes in a 1 3/4" maple blank I glued up over 16 years ago.
Finishing is what always held me back, and on that note I have some questions

- How often does the deft go on?
- How heavy does the deft go on?
(I remember something aobut the rule of 3s)
- Can't find Deft Sand/Sealer, I remember a post (Ron Kirn's I think) that said
Deft satin was a good substitue. Any major pros or cons to using satin versus sealer?
- Is it bad form to link directly to this thread?

Thanks again and keep production rolling. Hoping Iowa stays just warm enough
to get all the clear on.

[Buckocaster51]

Neat idea about the book kids...but remember...Do not use the TDPRI to buy or sell anything... It might be fun to try to write it up in big-time format when/if they get finished and post it as a .pdf. (Or is it .mdf?)

Originally Posted by milkshape

- How often does the deft go on?
- How heavy does the deft go on?
(I remember something aobut the rule of 3s)
- Can't find Deft Sand/Sealer, I remember a post (Ron Kirn's I think) that said
Deft satin was a good substitue. Any major pros or cons to using satin versus sealer?
- Is it bad form to link directly to this thread?

Thanks again and keep production rolling. Hoping Iowa stays just warm enough to get all the clear on.

Milkshape...remember, I am making this up as I go along.

I put on a "coat" of DEFT when the previous one is "dry." Dry=not sticky or tacky to the touch.

When you spray with a rattle can - you will probably find out that you get better results by "heating it up" in warm water before you spray. I just fill up a big glass with hot tap water and put the can in there to warm up. (I usually cover the can/glass with a dish towel in case the can "cooks off" but that hasn't happened - yet.

Warming it thins the lacquer and sort of ups the spray pressure. Warm lacquer "flows out" much better.

When I spray I hold the body in light so I can see the "wetness" of the lacquer as it goes on. I try to move at a speed that allows the pattern to "fill in" so I can't see the individual droplets on the surface. Moving too slowly will cause build up and running. Don't want that. Practice makes perfect.

The Rule of 3 says that a "coat" is putting on a wet coat, letting it "flash over" (it is still sticky and wet at this point) then putting on a coat and then another. Those three coats make a COAT. If that makes any sense.

I can find DEFT Sand/Sealer on the bottom shelf at a Big Box Store. Some of the employees don't even know it is there. You can probably also buy it in brush on coats. Since you sand off most of the Sand/Sealer that might be a good, cheap way to apply it. I have a quart of it here that I plan on using on the next one. (There WILL be a "next one" - there always is. Putting these things together is more addicting than caffeine.)

I haven't tried SATIN. Ron has done this much more than I. I am sure Ron knows what he is talking about - he hasn't steered me wrong on any of the tips he has jumped in here with.

Wear a proper respirator. Please.

Is it "bad form" to link to this thread? I would think not. Links are sort of what the World Wide WEB was all about once upon a time. (I can say though that the server that is hosting all of these photos gets a pretty good work out at times. )

Weather looks sort of good for the weekend. I should be able to get close to putting the last nail in the coffin on these two beasts - spraying-wise at least.

Once I get that last coat of clear on them, I am going to TRY to let them sit for SEVERAL weeks before final sanding and polishing. It will take a LONG time for all of that gunk that has been sprayed on that wood to out-gas. The harder that finish is when I polish it, the better it will look and the longer it will look like that.

Last night the order went in for PARTS. Lots and lots of PARTS. The UPS truck will be bringing LOTS OF PARTS.

Don't worry, I have a feeling that there will be photos.

Thanks again everybody.

[Stuco]

I'm ready to see these finished. I mean that in the best way possible.

[Clive Hugh]

Buckocaster,
I had a bit of a disaster with my body today, I got a nice piece of alder and I was in the garage rubbing down the sealer. It was 104oF and I sweated buckets and unfortunately ended up with a few wet marks on the wood. I was thinking maybe a wipe with turps, but I don't know enough about painting so before I do something I will regret, any advice?
Clive

[Southpaw433]

THis thread is soo good - I'm almost ready to try binding on my current mod lefty 51 project - The fact that you don't always get it right the first time - is actually even more incouraging to me. Those TV wood working shows - where "Norm" breezes through making a perfect copy of an 18th century side table in 30 minutes is way too intimidating - but you are using many of the same skills I learned as a kid in the model car building craze of the 60's.

very very cool!

[KYTele]

[quote=Buckocaster51]
If anybody knows a better way to sand inside the horn, I am all ears. To me that is almost the hardest part of the entire project. Just not enough room in there.

Have you tried a drum sanding kit for your drill or Dremel to get in there? Not a specific endorsement, but, here's an example: http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?pa...8&cookietest=1

Appreciate your taking the time to post your build details. I'm living vicariously through your post!

[Dr Gonzo]

I used a 'bobbing sander' not sure if thats workshop slang or if it's the real name. its pretty much a desk mounted drum sander that moves up and down aswell as rotating, so that less heat from friction is concentrated on certain pionts. It worked very nicely for me so should be a good option