2009 TDPRI Giveaway Winners List is available HERE

Jellecaster · April 16th, 2007, 09:40 PM

I would like to avoid the bit with the bearing on the end because it ruined an ash blank for me (could be that I just used a cheap bit). My router can't go low enough so I have to flip it over and get the last quarter inch or so with that bit.

jwells393 · April 16th, 2007, 10:00 PM

Here's a picture of one of my pattern bits. The bit can cut about an inch while keeping the bearing on the template. Then template is removed and the bearing rides on the previously routed surface. The bit can then cut the remaining 3/4 in. while still keeping an inch or more of the shaft in the collet.

......Bit.jpg

I don't see a problem finishing up with a flush trim bit because the majority of the wood has already been removed and you're not taking a full one inch cut.

Someone recently posted a picture of a 2 in. long flush trim bit. I definitely wouldn't use something like that to trim a body in one pass.

eryque · April 17th, 2007, 12:13 AM

Jack, there's no picture in your post.

It was me that posted the photo of the enormous flush trim bit. However, I do not remove all the wood in one pass, or anything near it. I take off about 1/32"-1/16" on each pass. The surface after each pass is very clean and little sanding is required.

It's a downshear bit, so I get less tear out and a cleaner cut than with a standard straight bit. Since the bit is long enough to cut the entire depth of the body I don't have to worry about resetting the depth, flipping the body, repositioning the template, or marks caused by the bit itself.

Ronkirn · April 17th, 2007, 09:34 AM

I may have mentioned before... if you have an older re-sharpened (several times) bit it will be smaller by a few thousandths, resulting in the body being larger by a few thousandths.

Use the old bit for the initial cut then follow up with a new bit. The new bit will only be removing a miniscule amount of wood. This results in a dramatically smoother cut and greatly reducing tear-out.

Ron Kirn

Jellecaster · April 17th, 2007, 09:57 AM

Jack, you're a freakin' genius! That is the exact same bit that I have been using, but I never thought of moving the shaft in the collet!

This may be a dumb question, but that has never stopped me before! I am using what I consider to be a good (if old) Sears router that accepts 1/4" bits. If I move up to one of the big, high-priced Porter Cable units will I get smoother cuts and will the job be easier. I'm thinking that I would like to be able to use the big, 1/2" bits like Eryque shows...

Ronkirn · April 17th, 2007, 10:31 AM

Jelli,

You will get a more precise cut. The 1/4 inch shaft will flex ever so slightly as the cutting edge collides with the wood as it's being cut, this can create more pronounced scallops as the blade progresses down the work. I have even had 1/4 inch shafts snap off… Ugly.

The 1/2 inch shaft is far more stable, even the sound as it cuts reflects more solid amalgam of components.

I do not use 1/4 inch shafts unless I absolutely have to.

Ron Kirn

jwells393 · April 17th, 2007, 12:16 PM

Quote:

I have even had 1/4 inch shafts snap off… Ugly.

Ouch ............. a chunk of metal with sharp edges spinning at 23,000 rpm flying through the air ............. not something I want to see.

I bought a Craftsman router back in the '70s. I've had nothing but trouble with Craftsman portable power tools. I've had failures of the following Craftsman tools .......... often with little use: router, angle grinder, 1/2 inch drill, jig saw. When I bought my Porter-Cable router the difference was like night and day. Like comparing an old beat up '60s VW to a Mercedes.

I recently purchased the Ridgid router. There are several good reviews on the Internet. It's 2 1/4 HP, comes with fixed base and plunge base, has LED lights, is variable speed, comes with both 1/4 in. and 1/2 in. collets and has the same base plate hole pattern as the Porter-Cable. Also the Porter-Cable 42690 micro adjustable edge guide will fit. I have one on order from Amazon.

......

......

Jellecaster · April 17th, 2007, 12:25 PM

There is a 2 1/4 HP plunging router from DeWalt in stock at my local Lowes. I think it has my name on it!

Preacher · April 26th, 2007, 01:19 PM

All I have to say is

WOW

Rock on · April 26th, 2007, 04:16 PM

i was just looking at a body that i have and it seems like there is another route under the neck pickup. on your builds you didnt do that. What does that route do? Do i need it?

Rock on

Jellecaster · April 26th, 2007, 05:38 PM

Assuming that you are talking about this:

untitled.JPG

It is the route that allows you to run the wire from the neck pickup to the controls. The other way to do this (which is cleaner but more difficult) is to drill a hole from the pickup cavity to the control cavity as Bucko shows in the thread.

Notice that there is no route on this pine body that I cut:

Body.JPG

Its tough to do, but I like the look better. You need a really long bit, a good drill and a steady hand to keep from diving through the back of the guitar.

Rock on · April 26th, 2007, 05:42 PM

thats it

thanks
Rock on

btw, that pine body looks superb.

Jellecaster · April 26th, 2007, 05:45 PM

Thanks - just sprayed the primer on it yesterday. Kinda makes me want to leave it white it looks so pretty!

Rock on · April 26th, 2007, 05:51 PM

it does,

i wonder if anyone has done an unfinished tele.

Buckocaster51 · April 26th, 2007, 07:36 PM

Long drill bit and nerves of steel.

So and steady with lots of baby steps.

I almost came out of the back on this one, but I caught it in time.

Rock on · April 26th, 2007, 07:43 PM

ok,

i think i might do that.

Why do you need nerves of steel?

Rock on

Jellecaster · April 26th, 2007, 09:16 PM

It's a very difficult cut. Don't try it unless you have a fair amount of woodworking experience. Keeping that drill steady and at the correct angle is tough.

Rock on · April 26th, 2007, 09:20 PM

why do you need an angle to it.

Isnt the top flat?

Rock on

eryque · April 26th, 2007, 09:27 PM

I always wondered why Fender didn't drill stright from the neck pickup to the bridge pickup cavity. Duchossoir says that Fender created the wiring channel because they were having problems drilling straight, but I don't think that would be a problem going along the centerline and with the grain.

Suraj, you need nerves of steel so you don't get that bit crooked and bend it or break it, or drill a hole out the back of the guitar.

jwells393 · April 26th, 2007, 09:35 PM

Maybe they didn't have foot long drill bits in the '50s. I find that a little hard to believe myself.

Rock on · April 26th, 2007, 09:38 PM

thanks,

i think i might have someone do it for me.

Rock on

eryque · April 26th, 2007, 10:11 PM

Jack, I know they had long bits because they did them on the Broadcasters. It wasn't until the spring of '51 that they added the wiring channel.

I re-read the Tele bible and Duchossoir only speculates about problems with drilling, he didn't really know for sure.

Tom S · April 26th, 2007, 10:13 PM

To make this a little easier and less nerve-racking, you can first create a block that you can place into the neck pocket that will let you guide the drill bit along it to ensure the proper angle. Just cut the correct angle in a block of wood, then cut that to fit the neck pocket. It doesn't have to be a perfect fit.

What's the correct angle?

Let's say the control cavity is 1.5" deep. If you want that hole at least .25" above the bottom, then it ends up being 1.25" down from the top of the body. Since you are starting the hole at the bottom of the neck pocket, that's 5/8" down from the top of the body. So the total drop from the start of the hole to the finish is 5/8", or .625". The distance is roughly 5.5 inches laterally. So using those two numbers, we know that the angle you need is 6.48°, or let's just say 6.5°. So you need a wedge cut at 6.5° that you can cut easily on a table saw or bandsaw. Insert the block into the neck pocket and let the drill bit ride along it and you will drill at the correct angle.

Before you start, draw another line on the body to indicate the exact direction you want the bit to travel, and follow it when you drill. Put a piece of tape on the drill bit to indicate the depth so you don't go too far and end up with a nice hole in the body. That length should be just a little more than 5.5".

Or you could just eyeball the whole operation.

Btw, if you cut a humbucker cavity for the neck pickup, you can drill the hole right from that cavity.

Jellecaster · April 26th, 2007, 10:29 PM

As you can tell from the photo of the pine body I cut, I use a Forstner bit to cut a notch between the neck pocket and the neck pickup cavity. I do this to allow truss rod adjustment without removing the vintage necks that I use, but it also allows you to drill the wiring channel much more easily.

You just angle the bit through the neck pocket, into the neck pickup cavity and on through to the control cavity. I still almost hit bottom!

Buckocaster51 · April 26th, 2007, 10:49 PM

I've often wondered why the "normal" path isn't from the neck pocket straight back through the neck pickup and into the bridge pickup cavity. The the neck pickup wires could share the hole from the bridge pickup route to the control cavity.

There is PROBABLY a reason this isn't done, but I haven't been able to think about it.

Unless it is a matter to too many wires in the bridge pickup cavity.

Or something like that.

jwells393 · April 26th, 2007, 11:14 PM

Tom's guide block with a hole in it is a good idea. In his book on guitar building, Melvyn Hiscock uses something similar to drill holes from the heel and headstock into the truss rod channel. Here's my jig patterned after the one in his book. The guide block is hard maple. You wouldn't need anything this elaborate for drilling the body holes.

........

Buckocaster51 · April 26th, 2007, 11:26 PM

Somebody in Albuquerque is building a neck!

eryque · April 26th, 2007, 11:29 PM

Jack, what are those cool clamps called and where do you get them?

Alamo · April 26th, 2007, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

I've often wondered why the "normal" path isn't from the neck pocket straight back through the neck pickup and into the bridge pickup cavity. The the neck pickup wires could share the hole from the bridge pickup route to the control cavity.

There is PROBABLY a reason this isn't done, but I haven't been able to think about it.

Unless it is a matter to too many wires in the bridge pickup cavity.

Or something like that.

It's anoying when you want to put a new neck pickup in it.
You can push the wires into the bridge cavity, but then what?
How are you going to thread 'em 90° to the left into the control cavity?
Ok, it works if you take the whole bridge off - but thats not a small job then. Not quite Leo's idea, I guess.

I just recently had to do this on my Hoyer Black Lady Telecaster.
It has a set neck, and no extra routings at all (except the pickup cavitys of course).
The high e-string had killed the neck pickup and I thought ok a 5 minute job, until I realized.......

So my vote goes to Leo thinking - everything must be interchangable without a hassle.

or something like that

gtech · April 27th, 2007, 12:56 AM

A trick to replace the neck pickup without having to take the bridge apart is to tape a string to the wire of the old pickup in the control cavity before taking the pickup out.

You then can attach the wires of the new pickup to this string and pull on the string to guide the wires into the guitar.

That's what we need to do with hollow or semi-hollow guitars to work on the electronics.

Quick Action Toggle clamps...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

Gilles

jwells393 · April 27th, 2007, 01:11 AM

The clamps ............. they're called toggle clamps. Woodworkers's Supply has a warehouse and retail outlet in Albuquerque. Other places like Wood Craft, Grizzly and Rockler probably have them too. They come is various sizes and configurations.

......

cradlehall · May 2nd, 2007, 06:38 PM

Phew, it's hard work being a newbie and having to read this 25 page thread in a oner - actually I read through over several sessions.
Many congratulations to the Buckocaster of course, but also to all the other contributors for their questions and ideas.
A really illuminating thread. Quite excellent.

Buckocaster51 · May 2nd, 2007, 06:48 PM

All the way from Scotland!

Thanks much.

One of these days work is going to slack off a bit and I will be able to get back out to the garage...Mario at the Guitar Mill just sent me a couple of really nice looking chunks of Alder. That will be at least four (4) project guitars for the summer...plus a couple of doublenecks.

I'm going to have more fun than any one person should be allowed to have...

But I have to get to the end of the school year first.

BarnesTO · May 3rd, 2007, 12:38 PM

Doublenecks? Cool....12/6 string, baritone/regular scale....

If you've got the Fender Custom shop book from several years ago, there is a double B-bender baritone/regular scale doubleneck blackguard Tele, copper with matching headstock(s). Very cool, probably incredibly heavy....

I think a big problem I would have with building a doubleneck (besides the expense) is finding the right case....I do you have an inside track on where to find those, Bucko?

Jellecaster · May 3rd, 2007, 02:13 PM

You absolutely MUST start a new "Doublecaster" thread when you do this project!

Buckocaster51 · May 3rd, 2007, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jellecaster

You absolutely MUST start a new "Doublecaster" thread when you do this project!

I don't know about the new thread...but I love that name...

DOUBLECASTER

has playful, yet decidedly sinister sound to it

Jellecaster · May 3rd, 2007, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

I don't know about the new thread...but I love that name...

DOUBLECASTER

has playful, yet decidedly sinister sound to it

You only get to use the name if you give us a new thread!

miko · May 5th, 2007, 05:39 PM

Hi, all. First post here but I've been lurking around for a while. Read this whole thread today and I must say I'm really inspired thanks to Buckocaster and everyone else.

You've shown an excellent effort to document the building process for each guitar and I thank you for that. Great job!

I've been playing a MIM tele for 2 years now and I'd really love to have a tele that makes me think of all the work I've done on it every time I play it. So far the only work I've done on my tele is to put a tortoise shell pickguard on it and reverse the control plate. It would be great if I could build my own tele -I have the courage to do that thanks to this thread- however I don't have as easy access as you guys have in the US to most of the resources I need. I could find body blanks with the help of some luthiers I know but it would cost me a lot. So, for now I'm only thinking of refinishing the body and neck of my MIM tele. The body has a thick arctic white poly finish on it. I'm thinking of something like daphne blue or maybe blonde. I'd love to do a sparkle finish like shoreline gold but as a first time project I think it would be too hard.

Anyways, for the ones who didn't bother to read that long paragraph (I know I wouldn't) I would really apreciate your tips and support once I start this project. I could get a luthier to do it but I want to feel the satisfaction doing it myself. BTW, I have a budget of about 300-350 dollars but I'll spend some of it on new pickups and electronics.

Many thanks in advance!

Buckocaster51 · May 6th, 2007, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miko

So, for now I'm only thinking of refinishing the body and neck of my MIM tele. The body has a thick arctic white poly finish on it. I'm thinking of something like daphne blue or maybe blonde. I'd love to do a sparkle finish like shoreline gold but as a first time project I think it would be too hard.

Welcome aboard.

Thank you for the kind words.

Before we go any farther, remember that I just make most of this up as I go along.

Unless your specific goal is to remove your "thick arctic white poly finish" I would suggest that you just sand it down, fill any dingers you might have, feather them out, prime it, paint it, clear it, sand, and polish it and be done with it.

If your goal is to remove that finish, which is something I have never done, I think I would attack it with a heat gun. There is a recent thread where that is discussed in some detail. It sounds like the way to go.

I hope that this hobby is addicting.

Think about it long and hard before you start.

miko · May 6th, 2007, 06:44 AM

Thank you. I'm thinking of sanding it off and spraying it as you said. Waiting for some good weather, don't want to do that stuff inside.

I'm also thinking of refinishing the neck with a vintage tint and putting my own decals on it. Would I have to remove the frets to sand off the finish?

April 16th, 2007, 10:00 PM	#962 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 65 Posts: 14,282 101 Photos	Here's a picture of one of my pattern bits. The bit can cut about an inch while keeping the bearing on the template. Then template is removed and the bearing rides on the previously routed surface. The bit can then cut the remaining 3/4 in. while still keeping an inch or more of the shaft in the collet. ......Bit.jpg I don't see a problem finishing up with a flush trim bit because the majority of the wood has already been removed and you're not taking a full one inch cut. Someone recently posted a picture of a 2 in. long flush trim bit. I definitely wouldn't use something like that to trim a body in one pass. __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" I'm just not cool enough to be a Mac person. Last edited by jwells393; April 17th, 2007 at 09:45 AM.

April 17th, 2007, 12:13 AM	#963 (permalink)
eryque Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: albany, ny [not chicago] Posts: 7,406 44 Photos	Jack, there's no picture in your post. It was me that posted the photo of the enormous flush trim bit. However, I do not remove all the wood in one pass, or anything near it. I take off about 1/32"-1/16" on each pass. The surface after each pass is very clean and little sanding is required. It's a downshear bit, so I get less tear out and a cleaner cut than with a standard straight bit. Since the bit is long enough to cut the entire depth of the body I don't have to worry about resetting the depth, flipping the body, repositioning the template, or marks caused by the bit itself. __________________ my blog: eryque.blogspot.com Updated 9.17.08! Subscribe_____________________

April 17th, 2007, 09:34 AM	#964 (permalink)
Ronkirn VENDOR Friend of Leo's Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jacksonville, FL Age: 63 Posts: 3,921	I may have mentioned before... if you have an older re-sharpened (several times) bit it will be smaller by a few thousandths, resulting in the body being larger by a few thousandths. Use the old bit for the initial cut then follow up with a new bit. The new bit will only be removing a miniscule amount of wood. This results in a dramatically smoother cut and greatly reducing tear-out. Ron Kirn __________________ www.ronkirn.com

April 17th, 2007, 10:31 AM	#966 (permalink)
Ronkirn VENDOR Friend of Leo's Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jacksonville, FL Age: 63 Posts: 3,921	Jelli, You will get a more precise cut. The 1/4 inch shaft will flex ever so slightly as the cutting edge collides with the wood as it's being cut, this can create more pronounced scallops as the blade progresses down the work. I have even had 1/4 inch shafts snap off… Ugly. The 1/2 inch shaft is far more stable, even the sound as it cuts reflects more solid amalgam of components. I do not use 1/4 inch shafts unless I absolutely have to. Ron Kirn __________________ www.ronkirn.com

April 26th, 2007, 01:19 PM	#969 (permalink)
Preacher Tele-Meister Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Oklahoma Age: 41 Posts: 256	All I have to say is WOW __________________ So many guitars... so little time.

April 16th, 2007, 09:40 PM	#961 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	I would like to avoid the bit with the bearing on the end because it ruined an ash blank for me (could be that I just used a cheap bit). My router can't go low enough so I have to flip it over and get the last quarter inch or so with that bit.

April 17th, 2007, 09:57 AM	#965 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	Jack, you're a freakin' genius! That is the exact same bit that I have been using, but I never thought of moving the shaft in the collet! This may be a dumb question, but that has never stopped me before! I am using what I consider to be a good (if old) Sears router that accepts 1/4" bits. If I move up to one of the big, high-priced Porter Cable units will I get smoother cuts and will the job be easier. I'm thinking that I would like to be able to use the big, 1/2" bits like Eryque shows...

April 17th, 2007, 12:25 PM	#968 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	There is a 2 1/4 HP plunging router from DeWalt in stock at my local Lowes. I think it has my name on it!

April 26th, 2007, 04:16 PM	#970 (permalink)
Rock on Tele-Holic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Barrington, RI Posts: 753 1 Photos	i was just looking at a body that i have and it seems like there is another route under the neck pickup. on your builds you didnt do that. What does that route do? Do i need it? Rock on __________________ Jimmy Page = God

April 26th, 2007, 05:38 PM	#971 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	Assuming that you are talking about this: untitled.JPG It is the route that allows you to run the wire from the neck pickup to the controls. The other way to do this (which is cleaner but more difficult) is to drill a hole from the pickup cavity to the control cavity as Bucko shows in the thread. Notice that there is no route on this pine body that I cut: Body.JPG Its tough to do, but I like the look better. You need a really long bit, a good drill and a steady hand to keep from diving through the back of the guitar.

April 26th, 2007, 05:42 PM	#972 (permalink)
Rock on Tele-Holic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Barrington, RI Posts: 753 1 Photos	thats it thanks Rock on btw, that pine body looks superb. __________________ Jimmy Page = God

April 26th, 2007, 05:45 PM	#973 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	Thanks - just sprayed the primer on it yesterday. Kinda makes me want to leave it white it looks so pretty!

April 26th, 2007, 05:51 PM	#974 (permalink)
Rock on Tele-Holic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Barrington, RI Posts: 753 1 Photos	it does, i wonder if anyone has done an unfinished tele. __________________ Jimmy Page = God

April 26th, 2007, 07:36 PM	#975 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 57 Posts: 8,398 1 Photos	Long drill bit and nerves of steel. So and steady with lots of baby steps. I almost came out of the back on this one, but I caught it in time. __________________ "If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

April 26th, 2007, 07:43 PM	#976 (permalink)
Rock on Tele-Holic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Barrington, RI Posts: 753 1 Photos	ok, i think i might do that. Why do you need nerves of steel? Rock on __________________ Jimmy Page = God

April 26th, 2007, 09:16 PM	#977 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	It's a very difficult cut. Don't try it unless you have a fair amount of woodworking experience. Keeping that drill steady and at the correct angle is tough.

April 26th, 2007, 09:20 PM	#978 (permalink)
Rock on Tele-Holic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Barrington, RI Posts: 753 1 Photos	why do you need an angle to it. Isnt the top flat? Rock on __________________ Jimmy Page = God

April 26th, 2007, 09:27 PM	#979 (permalink)
eryque Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: albany, ny [not chicago] Posts: 7,406 44 Photos	I always wondered why Fender didn't drill stright from the neck pickup to the bridge pickup cavity. Duchossoir says that Fender created the wiring channel because they were having problems drilling straight, but I don't think that would be a problem going along the centerline and with the grain. Suraj, you need nerves of steel so you don't get that bit crooked and bend it or break it, or drill a hole out the back of the guitar. __________________ my blog: eryque.blogspot.com Updated 9.17.08! Subscribe_____________________

April 26th, 2007, 09:35 PM	#980 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 65 Posts: 14,282 101 Photos	Maybe they didn't have foot long drill bits in the '50s. I find that a little hard to believe myself. __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" I'm just not cool enough to be a Mac person.

April 26th, 2007, 09:38 PM	#981 (permalink)
Rock on Tele-Holic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Barrington, RI Posts: 753 1 Photos	thanks, i think i might have someone do it for me. Rock on __________________ Jimmy Page = God

April 26th, 2007, 10:11 PM	#982 (permalink)
eryque Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: albany, ny [not chicago] Posts: 7,406 44 Photos	Jack, I know they had long bits because they did them on the Broadcasters. It wasn't until the spring of '51 that they added the wiring channel. I re-read the Tele bible and Duchossoir only speculates about problems with drilling, he didn't really know for sure. __________________ my blog: eryque.blogspot.com Updated 9.17.08! Subscribe_____________________

April 26th, 2007, 10:13 PM	#983 (permalink)
Tom S Friend of Leo's Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,262 49 Photos	To make this a little easier and less nerve-racking, you can first create a block that you can place into the neck pocket that will let you guide the drill bit along it to ensure the proper angle. Just cut the correct angle in a block of wood, then cut that to fit the neck pocket. It doesn't have to be a perfect fit. What's the correct angle? Let's say the control cavity is 1.5" deep. If you want that hole at least .25" above the bottom, then it ends up being 1.25" down from the top of the body. Since you are starting the hole at the bottom of the neck pocket, that's 5/8" down from the top of the body. So the total drop from the start of the hole to the finish is 5/8", or .625". The distance is roughly 5.5 inches laterally. So using those two numbers, we know that the angle you need is 6.48°, or let's just say 6.5°. So you need a wedge cut at 6.5° that you can cut easily on a table saw or bandsaw. Insert the block into the neck pocket and let the drill bit ride along it and you will drill at the correct angle. Before you start, draw another line on the body to indicate the exact direction you want the bit to travel, and follow it when you drill. Put a piece of tape on the drill bit to indicate the depth so you don't go too far and end up with a nice hole in the body. That length should be just a little more than 5.5". Or you could just eyeball the whole operation. Btw, if you cut a humbucker cavity for the neck pickup, you can drill the hole right from that cavity.

April 26th, 2007, 10:29 PM	#984 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	As you can tell from the photo of the pine body I cut, I use a Forstner bit to cut a notch between the neck pocket and the neck pickup cavity. I do this to allow truss rod adjustment without removing the vintage necks that I use, but it also allows you to drill the wiring channel much more easily. You just angle the bit through the neck pocket, into the neck pickup cavity and on through to the control cavity. I still almost hit bottom!

April 26th, 2007, 10:49 PM	#985 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 57 Posts: 8,398 1 Photos	I've often wondered why the "normal" path isn't from the neck pocket straight back through the neck pickup and into the bridge pickup cavity. The the neck pickup wires could share the hole from the bridge pickup route to the control cavity. There is PROBABLY a reason this isn't done, but I haven't been able to think about it. Unless it is a matter to too many wires in the bridge pickup cavity. Or something like that. __________________ "If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

April 26th, 2007, 11:14 PM	#986 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 65 Posts: 14,282 101 Photos	Tom's guide block with a hole in it is a good idea. In his book on guitar building, Melvyn Hiscock uses something similar to drill holes from the heel and headstock into the truss rod channel. Here's my jig patterned after the one in his book. The guide block is hard maple. You wouldn't need anything this elaborate for drilling the body holes. ........ __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" I'm just not cool enough to be a Mac person.

2009 TDPRI Giveaway Winners List is available HERE

IMPORTANT:Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult! No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.

April 26th, 2007, 11:26 PM	#987 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 57 Posts: 8,398 1 Photos	Somebody in Albuquerque is building a neck! __________________ "If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

April 26th, 2007, 11:29 PM	#988 (permalink)
eryque Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: albany, ny [not chicago] Posts: 7,406 44 Photos	Jack, what are those cool clamps called and where do you get them? __________________ my blog: eryque.blogspot.com Updated 9.17.08! Subscribe_____________________

April 27th, 2007, 12:56 AM	#990 (permalink)
gtech Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Quebec, Canada Age: 60 Posts: 2,126 174 Photos	A trick to replace the neck pickup without having to take the bridge apart is to tape a string to the wire of the old pickup in the control cavity before taking the pickup out. You then can attach the wires of the new pickup to this string and pull on the string to guide the wires into the guitar. That's what we need to do with hollow or semi-hollow guitars to work on the electronics. Quick Action Toggle clamps... http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details Gilles __________________ Back to practice now...to make my Teles sound good.

April 27th, 2007, 01:11 AM	#991 (permalink)
jwells393 Doctor of Teleocity Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Albuquerque, USA Age: 65 Posts: 14,282 101 Photos	The clamps ............. they're called toggle clamps. Woodworkers's Supply has a warehouse and retail outlet in Albuquerque. Other places like Wood Craft, Grizzly and Rockler probably have them too. They come is various sizes and configurations. ...... __________________ Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" I'm just not cool enough to be a Mac person.

May 2nd, 2007, 06:38 PM	#992 (permalink)
cradlehall Tele-Meister Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Inverness, Scotland Age: 58 Posts: 273	Phew, it's hard work being a newbie and having to read this 25 page thread in a oner - actually I read through over several sessions. Many congratulations to the Buckocaster of course, but also to all the other contributors for their questions and ideas. A really illuminating thread. Quite excellent.

May 2nd, 2007, 06:48 PM	#993 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 57 Posts: 8,398 1 Photos	All the way from Scotland! Thanks much. One of these days work is going to slack off a bit and I will be able to get back out to the garage...Mario at the Guitar Mill just sent me a couple of really nice looking chunks of Alder. That will be at least four (4) project guitars for the summer...plus a couple of doublenecks. I'm going to have more fun than any one person should be allowed to have... But I have to get to the end of the school year first. __________________ "If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

May 3rd, 2007, 12:38 PM	#994 (permalink)
BarnesTO Tele-Holic Join Date: May 2006 Location: Yuma, AZ Age: 31 Posts: 757 4 Photos	Doublenecks? Cool....12/6 string, baritone/regular scale.... If you've got the Fender Custom shop book from several years ago, there is a double B-bender baritone/regular scale doubleneck blackguard Tele, copper with matching headstock(s). Very cool, probably incredibly heavy.... I think a big problem I would have with building a doubleneck (besides the expense) is finding the right case....I do you have an inside track on where to find those, Bucko?

May 3rd, 2007, 02:13 PM	#995 (permalink)
Jellecaster Friend of Leo's Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: New Hampshire, USA Age: 41 Posts: 2,422	You absolutely MUST start a new "Doublecaster" thread when you do this project!

May 5th, 2007, 05:39 PM	#998 (permalink)
miko NEW MEMBER! Join Date: May 2007 Location: Istanbul Posts: 2	Hi, all. First post here but I've been lurking around for a while. Read this whole thread today and I must say I'm really inspired thanks to Buckocaster and everyone else. You've shown an excellent effort to document the building process for each guitar and I thank you for that. Great job! I've been playing a MIM tele for 2 years now and I'd really love to have a tele that makes me think of all the work I've done on it every time I play it. So far the only work I've done on my tele is to put a tortoise shell pickguard on it and reverse the control plate. It would be great if I could build my own tele -I have the courage to do that thanks to this thread- however I don't have as easy access as you guys have in the US to most of the resources I need. I could find body blanks with the help of some luthiers I know but it would cost me a lot. So, for now I'm only thinking of refinishing the body and neck of my MIM tele. The body has a thick arctic white poly finish on it. I'm thinking of something like daphne blue or maybe blonde. I'd love to do a sparkle finish like shoreline gold but as a first time project I think it would be too hard. Anyways, for the ones who didn't bother to read that long paragraph (I know I wouldn't) I would really apreciate your tips and support once I start this project. I could get a luthier to do it but I want to feel the satisfaction doing it myself. BTW, I have a budget of about 300-350 dollars but I'll spend some of it on new pickups and electronics. Many thanks in advance!

May 6th, 2007, 06:44 AM	#1000 (permalink)
miko NEW MEMBER! Join Date: May 2007 Location: Istanbul Posts: 2	Thank you. I'm thinking of sanding it off and spraying it as you said. Waiting for some good weather, don't want to do that stuff inside. I'm also thinking of refinishing the neck with a vintage tint and putting my own decals on it. Would I have to remove the frets to sand off the finish?