The Buttercaster Project

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by milkshape

Buck,
I just always assumed you used Deft spray sealer! Thanks for the pictures, this will save $$ on the next (and yes there will be a next) build, you don't know how many of those cans I picked up looking for spray sand sealer.

But you assumed pretty much correct!

This is the first time I have used the brush on stuff myself.

It is going to work just fine.

Like you said, it is going to save me MONEY!

[jwells393]

....what is the correct way to determine where to locate the flat spot for the jack?

Measure along the centerline 10.75 inches from the neck pocket. Draw a line perpendicular to the centerline at that point. Where that line intersects the edge of the body is the centerline for the jack................. or just eyeball it.

[Rock on]

quick question,

what did you use a routing template for the working temlates? Did you use Mr. Kirns originals.


Rock on

[Rock on]

What type of router bits did you use and where did you get them.

[Rock on]

how think were the blanks when you started the build?

[Rock on]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

The pickup cavities are 3/4" deep and the control cavity 1-1/2". Fortunately the body is 1-3/4" thick.

No neck pocket yet. That is what template #2 is for.

Another chunk of 3/4" MDF machined from a master. It is registered to the body with a nail and a drill bit. (I also made a few measurements, but it is more fun to pretend I am a little cavalier about the whole thing.)

there is a only a quarter inch of wood behind that control plate, arent you worried that you might bang it and have a gaping hole?


When you registered the MDF to the body, where did you put the nails and drill bit. If there were placed anywhere, did you fill them after.

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Rock on

quick question,

what did you use a routing template for the working temlates? Did you use Mr. Kirns originals.


Rock on

Yup...and I put a HUGE dinger in one...because I got careless with the router.

Fortunately it was the template and not my fingers.

Want to bet Ron will show up here and wag his finger at me and say, "I told you so!"?

And he did tell me so. It is almost the first thing he says in this How to Build a Telecaster manual that he sends along with his templates.

I'll bet you a quarter that I know how HE knows that.

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Rock on

What type of router bits did you use and where did you get them.

From Grizzly Tools - This VERY Set.

They worked.

I think they are dull enough now, I've done 6 bodies with them, that I am retiring them for critical work. I bought some BOSCH replacements at a LOWES today.

Another thing I noticed.

I just switched over from a 5/8 HP hand held router to a 1 1/2 HP router on a router table.

What a difference!

I am sure that it is much safer as well.

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Rock on

how think were the blanks when you started the build?

Whatever the blank was that The Guitar Mill sent. 1 3/4 inch I think. But I never measured it.

I just know that when I routed a 1 1/2" deep control cavity it didn't come through the back.

I'm just kidding.

I did measure. I've watched too many PBS home improvement shows to not "measure twice and cut once."

They have all been 1 3/4". Standard modern day Telecaster thickness.

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Rock on

there is a only a quarter inch of wood behind that control plate, arent you worried that you might bang it and have a gaping hole?


When you registered the MDF to the body, where did you put the nails and drill bit. If there were placed anywhere, did you fill them after.

There are hundreds of thousands, if not millions of Telecasters and Telecaster copies in existence. I've never seen one broken through there. Might have happened. I've never seen it. I wonder if anybody else has?

Those "registration pins" are in the big E and little E (I learned to call them that from Buck Owens) string through holes.

No need to fill them.

When you use the main template to shape the body, the template can be held in place with two screws. One in the neck pocket area, that will get routed away, and the other in the area under the bridge. That will not be seen once the bridge is one. It could be filled I guess.

Some people avoid that "problem" altogether and use double-sided tape to hold the template down.

Do you have all of your Biology homework finished?

[Ronkirn]

Surj... all those questions are answered in the instructions....

Ron Kirn

[WisconsinStrings]

Originally Posted by Rock on

there is a only a quarter inch of wood behind that control plate, arent you worried that you might bang it and have a gaping hole?

I had the same thought before I took router to wood on mine. Really though a quarter inch of ash or other hard wood is actually pretty strong. Especially considering it's only 1 1/8" wide. I bet you could stab a pine body with a screwdriver and not get through to the cavity. (I'm not going to try it to prove that though. :) )

My question? Are the Ron Kirn templates available on-line?

[Rock on]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

There are hundreds of thousands, if not millions of Telecasters and Telecaster copies in existence. I've never seen one broken through there. Might have happened. I've never seen it. I wonder if anybody else has?

Those "registration pins" are in the big E and little E (I learned to call them that from Buck Owens) string through holes.

No need to fill them.

When you use the main template to shape the body, the template can be held in place with two screws. One in the neck pocket area, that will get routed away, and the other in the area under the bridge. That will not be seen once the bridge is one. It could be filled I guess.

Some people avoid that "problem" altogether and use double-sided tape to hold the template down.

Do you have all of your Biology homework finished?

ok, i understand that part,

i did my bio homework during study on Fri.


Suraj Singh

[Rock on]

Originally Posted by WisconsinStrings

I had the same thought before I took router to wood on mine. Really though a quarter inch of ash or other hard wood is actually pretty strong. Especially considering it's only 1 1/8" wide. I bet you could stab a pine body with a screwdriver and not get through to the cavity. (I'm not going to try it to prove that though. :) )

My question? Are the Ron Kirn templates available on-line?

ebay,


or call him.


i think im going to order a set today or tommorrow.


Rock on

[Rock on]

also,

in one of the various pages in this thread i saw a picture that you Bucko were looking at a book written by Mr. Kirn. What was the name of his book. I know he has a couple for sale but im not sure what yours was.


Thanks

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Rock on

also,

in one of the various pages in this thread i saw a picture that you Bucko were looking at a book written by Mr. Kirn. What was the name of his book. I know he has a couple for sale but im not sure what yours was.

Thanks

It's a little self-published thing that he includes with his templates. All of the important stuff is there.

This book by Melvyn Hiscock is a solid "how to." Your library should be able to track down a copy for you.

[Rock on]

http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5566/images


out of those what was the bit that you used?

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Rock on

http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5566/images


out of those what was the bit that you used?

You will need to use one with the bearing on the bottom (one of the two on the right in the photo) to get started and then finish up with the one on the left.

[Ronkirn]

Surj, I just sent ya a copy of the instructions... read carefully and be sure you can handle it.... the fastest way to get discouraged while learning to play, is to hack up your fingers.... be sure you have good qualified help....the minimum router you should use is 1 hp... At 14 I'm betting you don't have half the beef most of us have to resist its 1 horsepower tendency to jump on ya... and jump it will do just when you don't expect it to....

And this is NO way to save money….. It becomes cost effective after about a half dozen bodies…. Think, and then proceed…

BE CAREFUL..

Ron Kirn

[Douglas_Holt]

Sound advice as always Ron. Be carefull, Be Very Very Carefull.

Doug

[WisconsinStrings]

I do quite a bit of woodworking. I'm careful with all my tools, but the router is the one tool that still makes me a little nervous. That bit spins fast! I've seen pictures of router accidents - not pretty.

It's a great tool, you just have to treat it with respect.

[Rock on]

thank you all,

i probably will start a new thread documenting it(thanks buckocaster). it will probably be loaded with questions.

also, does anyone know where to get alder and ask near barrington, RI 02806.

Thanks again
Rock on

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Rock on

thank you all,

i probably will start a new thread documenting it(thanks buckocaster). it will probably be loaded with questions.

also, does anyone know where to get alder and ask near barrington, RI 02806.

Thanks again
Rock on

I like to take the path of least resistance...so have ordered my body blanks from The Guitar Mill. They have always done me right. I am sure there are other sources.

Your school shop teacher might have some insight into local sources of wood. That might be a place to start.

But...

the type of ash that interests a cabinet maker might not be the type of ash an instrument builder would want.

[Rock on]

why would the ash not be right. would it be to thin?

[WisconsinStrings]

Originally Posted by Rock on

why would the ash not be right. would it be to thin?

Too heavy. I think most woodworkers use northern ash. Guitar makers use swamp (or southern) ash. It's lighter.

Guitar Mill sells one piece or two piece blanks at a pretty reasonable price. Excellent customer service too. They come in at 1.75 inches to don't need to be planed. I don't know how selective he is on grain, but I've never heard anyone complain.

[jwells393]

This thing started as a Guitar Mill body blank. I've posted this picture here before. Some day I'll get back after it.

......

[Rock on]

what happened to it?

[Rock on]

o, is everything crooked?

[Buckocaster51]

When we last left this exciting adventure, I had added YET ANOTHER COAT of DEFT Sanding/Sealer...this one was for sure going to be THE LAST.

So tonight I went out to the "shop" and hit the body with 220 grit paper.

Being very careful not to sand through to the wood, look what I found...



Dang! More sand/sealer is needed. Which means more drying time. I have learned though, that any little problems will just telegraph their way to the surface.

In the "business" you might be able to "fix it in post" but here I don't really want to go on until things are right.

[Buckocaster51]

I'm going to run this risk of getting the Old Buttercaster Project thread VERY convoluted...but I have started to collect materials for another one.



I haven't tried a start-to-finish Sparklefinish yet. No time the present I guess.

The plan will be to seal the wood.

Get it to where I am happy.

Put a coat of white primer on it.

Shoot a coat of the pink base coat.

Slather a good wet coat of DEFT on it (probably one side at a time) and then sprinkle the sparkles on it.

Let it dry.

Brush off the stuff that isn't stuck.

Repeat as necessary.

Once it is GOOD and covered...take it to my buddy the motorcycle painter and have him coach me on shooting the clear modern goop over it. (I see no point in trying to cover it with clear nitro. That would take forever...and maybe longer.)

Paint some black bindings on it.

Clear it.

Sand and buff it.

I'm thinking it MIGHT be done by Labor Day.

And yes, sometimes it seems like I DO have too much free time.

[jwells393]

Hmmmmmm............. this should be interesting.

[milkshape]

Oh my head! This is going to be fantastic!

Have you ever thought about that clear epoxy stuff they put on bar tops? I have no idea of how to applyit to aguitar body, but it seems it goes on by hand and kinda thick.

Have I mentioned how much I have learned here? Way extra cool!

[adam128]

hey this is a great thread... im wanting to build my own tele and this thread has helped me alot, but anyways, what size binding did you use on your -pumpkin-caster? i went to stewart macdonald and theres a bunch of different sizes...

adam

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by adam128

hey this is a great thread... im wanting to build my own tele and this thread has helped me alot, but anyways, what size binding did you use on your -pumpkin-caster? i went to stewart macdonald and theres a bunch of different sizes...

adam

Thank you.

That is a great question.

#5777 - 0.060" x 0.250"

is what I used. Seems to work...for me at least.

Good luck, and keep us informed on your progress.

[adam128]

thanks for the binding info


adam

[Rock on]

Are the router bits that you used to make the working templates from MDF, the same ones that you used to make the real body. What size were they?

Thanks
Rock on

[Jellecaster]

Not to speak for Buckocaster, but I used the same bits for both the templates and the actual body.

You will need three. I recommend one 1" length with the bearing on top and one 1" with the bearing on the bottom. The diameter shank depends upon your router - either 1/2" or 1/4". You will also need a 1/8" round-over bit unless you are doing double binding like Buck.

[Buckocaster51]

Jelle knows whereof he speaks.

This is a unaltered digital photograph of the very cutters I recently purchased for use on my next projects.!



Right off the rack at LOWES.

[jwells393]

I for one don't recommend the bit with the bearing on the end (often called a flush trim bit). The problem with it is it requires you to take a full 1 inch cut at the wood. I think you're much better off with the pattern following bit. If you use a thick template ....... say 3/4 inch........ your initial cut can be around 1/2 inch. Later cuts can be 1/4 inch. There's less chance of tearout and you're going to be safer. Some will say just take light passes with the full cutting bit ............. good in theory but it doesn't always work out that way.

[Buckocaster51]

Good points Jack. IIRC on the last couple of bodies I did...on the router table no less...I only needed to use the cutter with the bearing on the end to reach the last 1/4" or so near the bottom, or top, that I couldn't get to with the cutter in the middle of the picture.

I'll have to pay closer attention the next time, but I don't think that there is a way that I can get it all with that straight trim cutter.