The Buttercaster Project

[Iamblichus]

[quote=KYTele]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

If anybody knows a better way to sand inside the horn, I am all ears. To me that is almost the hardest part of the entire project. Just not enough room in there.

Have you tried a drum sanding kit for your drill or Dremel to get in there? Not a specific endorsement, but, here's an example: http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?pa...8&cookietest=1

Appreciate your taking the time to post your build details. I'm living vicariously through your post!

Try using a paint roller, wraped with sand paper. It works great!

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Clive Hugh

Buckocaster,
I had a bit of a disaster with my body today, I got a nice piece of alder and I was in the garage rubbing down the sealer. It was 104oF and I sweated buckets and unfortunately ended up with a few wet marks on the wood. I was thinking maybe a wipe with turps, but I don't know enough about painting so before I do something I will regret, any advice?
Clive

Clive, my first inclination would be to use something that IS NOT a solvent in your sealer. That might be turps. Denatured alchohol might also work. Maybe water can fix what water created.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Buckocaster51]

[quote=Iamblichus]

Originally Posted by KYTele

Try using a paint roller, wraped with sand paper. It works great!

There's an idea that I'll try to remember.

Back along page 2 or 3 of this opus I picked up a Grizzly Oscillating Drum Sander that has proven to be a great investment. No room in the garage for it...but it does what it is supposed to do very well.

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Southpaw433

...but you are using many of the same skills I learned as a kid in the model car building craze of the 60's.

very very cool!

In a sense, the Teleguitars are just 1:1 models. So your observation that many of the skills overlap is a very good one.

Short of cutting a piece of wood too small, or grinding up a finger, there are very few nonrecoverable mistakes that can be made as you work on them. Even most woodworking mistakes can be patched up with auto body filler, or sawdust and CA glue. Mistakes with the paint only cost time and money for the replacement supplies.

I tallied the numbers for supplies, tools, and Martycaster paint the other night. These will each cost about what a Baja Tele costs. So I am not saving tons of money. But I will have something that is at least as good, and in the electronics area, probably better, than a Baja. Plus I have the incredible experience of putting them together, several new tools in the garage, and the fellowship of the TDPRI world.

Good, cheap entertainment. That's what it is.

[Gregg_G]

For sanding the inside of the horns, try this:

Get a 8" (or so) section of PVC pipe ... whatever diameter seems appropriate for the radius of the curve. Cut the pipe into two sections of about 3". Take one section and cut it lengthwise so that it creates two "U" shaped sections. Take the sandpaper and place it abrasive side out on the outside of cut section and make it long enough so that it runs over the sides and into the "inside". Now, take the other section that is not cut lengthwise and force it INSIDE the the "U" shapped channel. It will be a tight fit and will pinch the paper and hold it tight.

The PVC should be fine to dip in whatever you're using for the wet sanding process ...

[theshredermaster]

did i miss something?, what happened to the third tele with the checkered binding?

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by theshredermaster

did i miss something?, what happened to the third tele with the checkered binding?

Chapt 4, page 14...you missed the part where the Martycaster got sent to the motorcycle paint shop for its Sparklepaint. Been there a week and a half now. As Ian Tyson liked to sing, "Someday soon..."

[theshredermaster]

sorry bout that.

can't wait to see it. thanks for letting all of us follow along!

[milkshape]

Thanks Buck,

It is extra nice to have the interaction and your excellent desrciptive words around the finishing process.

I have a page on my first ever build up and just wanted to make sure I wasn't making a newbie faux pas by linking without your expressed written consent.

It will be tough for everyone listening to wait while the buttercaster and pumpkincaster out gas.

[Buckocaster51]

Well kids, I did get into the "spray booth" tonight. Still trying to layer lots and lots of clear DEFT. Of course, much of it gets sanded off between coats.

Even found a photographer so you can see the Ol' Buckocaster in action!

[Clive Hugh]

Buckocaster,
Just got the first coat on, bit unsure of the colour, looks a bit brighter than the colour of the can lid. But I can always go darker.
Clive

[sean79]

Looks like that spindle sander makes a pretty good stand.

[Ronkirn]

Is that a can 'o beer sitting in front of the spindle sander? What's up with that? Only one can? C'mon Bucko.....

Ron Kirn

[Buckocaster51]

Ahhhh...that would be a can 'o Pepsi sitting in front of the spindle sander/universal support bracket.

Sorry if I burst any bubbles.

Maybe I should go from some "product placement" money from them?

[Buckocaster51]

A few days ago I "touched up" a few spots where the binding meets the butter. It turned out okay. I'm glad I did it - especially since I will be looking at it for the next few years - it would have bugged me if I hadn't fixed it. (Now I am wishing that I had fixed a few, even smaller, spots. )



This KRYLON stuff creates some pretty thick layers - much thicker than nitro color coats I am thinking. There is a huge "step" at the edge between the color and the binding.

Onliest way that I have been able to fill that in is to spray DEFT over it, let it dry, hit it with the sanding block, spray again, sand, spray, ad nauseum...until the low spots have been brought up the high spots. Of course this is complicated by the slow drying/sinking of the lacquer.



It is getting there.

I am beginning to understand why people who have to get these things put together in a reasonable amount of time like quick drying catalyzed finishes. It's becoming apparent to me that if these are cured, sanded, polished and assembled by Christmas, I will be doing good. Just can't rush it.

The Martycaster, with it fancy-schmanzy urethane sparklepaint will be put together and twanging the night it comes back from the painter.

I'm also discovering that my camera doesn't like to autofocus on solid color glossy surfaces.

Ron, paging Ron Kirn! Does that beer can work for you? I know how old it is. Anybody want to take a guess?

[Ronkirn]

Having never been a connoisseur of Old Milwaukee, I have no idea.... But it IS a step in the right direction...

The Guitars are looking awsome....

Ron Kirn

[f69tele]

bro. that beer can looks like one of those thick tin cans from the early 70's hehehe

[milkshape]

Hey Buck,
I saw in an earlier post you sand between coats of color with 400 grit, naptha, and gloves, do you do the same for clear? Or is it a different grit?

I also saw you only grain filled the ash Martycaster, what species do you suggest grainfilling? I am working on a maple body and I have an alder body lined up.

Again many many thanks to you and everyone here for great advice, and for a large group to point to when my significant other looks at me like I have two heads.

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by f69tele

bro. that beer can looks like one of those thick tin cans from the early 70's hehehe

There's a story there. A few years ago we were doing some work at school. It involved knocking down a cinder block wall that was built in 1972. Guess what we found inside the block?

Originally Posted by milkshape

Hey Buck,
I saw in an earlier post you sand between coats of color with 400 grit, naptha, and gloves, do you do the same for clear? Or is it a different grit?

I also saw you only grain filled the ash Martycaster, what species do you suggest grainfilling? I am working on a maple body and I have an alder body lined up.

Negatory on that NAPTHA. I've been using "Mineral Spirits," whatever that is, which I think is much less volatile - it is the kind of paint thinner that you would clean a brush you have used with oil-based paint. Cheap and plentiful. All we are looking for is something that will carry away the sanding spoil, keep the paper from clogging, and will not swell the wood should the two come in contact. To me, "Naphtha" = white gas aka Coleman Stove/Latern fuel - also used in Zippo-style ciggy lighters. Mineral spirits is much less aromatic. Better (and that is problematic) to be around.

I have been knocking down the high spots with 400 grit paper between coats of clear. I have switched over to water for this because there is VERY little chance for the water to soak into the wood and swell it. When I do the final sanding before polishing I will probably switch back to mineral spirits.

re grain filling - I think the book is that ASH will absolutely, positively need it - if you are trying to get rid of the grain - that wouldn't be required for all finishes. The Buttercaster is poplar and the Pumpkincaster is alder. Sand/sealer seemed to work just fine for leveling things out. Maple probably will not need it.

Have fun.

[DrewB]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

When I do the final sanding before polishing I will probably switch back to mineral spirits.

Have you tried the soap-and-water sanding? Boy, it works so well for me! After wet-sanding a tele neck a couple of years ago, it was so smooth and shiny I almost passed on buffing it. Since you have "VERY little chance for the water to soak into the wood and swell it"...

[eryque]

Buck, do the spindles for your sander require you to use pre-made sanding drums, or will it accept normal paper?

I found a drum sanding kit with 4 different sizes at Harbor Freight that uses regular paper, so you can make drums of whatever grit you want. Linky

I've used it in my hand drill with mixed success. It's tough to keep it perfectly parallel to the work, and you have to be sure to move it back and forth so you don't scratch the work deeply.

If your spindle sander will accept these things, it seems like the perfect tool for the job. Be extra careful putting your painted bodies on that table, though, it's awfully easy to scratch them up.

[Buckocaster51]

Waiting is tough. I've never been good at it. That is why all of my models of WWII airplanes hand my fingerprints all over the clear canopies...

Lacquer is still way too soft for final sanding and buffing...but I can do this...



Thanks again for all of the tips and suggestions.

[militele]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

Waiting is tough. I've never been good at it. That is why all of my models of WWII airplanes hand my fingerprints all over the clear canopies...

Lacquer is still way too soft for final sanding and buffing...but I can do this...



Thanks again for all of the tips and suggestions.

I know the feeling, AAAAUUUGGHHHH! That's a scream of impaitience. Those two are gonna be just AWESOME and it's killin' me to wait, tooo.
Thanks for taking the time to bring us along for the journey.
GW

[Dr Gonzo]

Congrats, they are really taking shape. keep it up! Thanks for keeping the community updated.

[Rizo]

Buck, for some reason it just hit me that you should stick a rebel flag pickgaurd on the Pumpkincaster, plaster a big "01" on it and call it the 'Hazzard-caster.


OK, maybe that's just a politically-incorrect daydream from a guy who grew up watching the Dukes of Hazzard every afternoon..... lol...

[andy__woods]

Originally Posted by Rizo

Buck, for some reason it just hit me that you should stick a rebel flag pickgaurd on the Pumpkincaster, plaster a big "01" on it and call it the 'Hazzard-caster.

HAHA! a 'Hazzard-caster. What a great, off the wall idea

[Tom S]

Hey Buckocaster, are you ever going to finish these guitars?

I'm kidding, of course. They look GREAT! But I still think you should build at least one neck! C'mon, you've got the tools out and everything...

[milkshape]

I did the same thing with my project, and I don't even have the pockets routed!

I can't wait to see then all lined up when the flake gets back! Amazing!
Thanks again for the in depth finishing answers.

eryque - have you ever seen this type of sander that will cover thw 1 3/4 thickness of the body? The robo-sander mentioned on this thread covers 2", but no swapping with ordinary paper. Thanks for the link now I know there is something close to what I'm looking for.

[BarnesTO]

Rizo- Great minds think alike!

I've had the General Lee in the works for a while....I've already got the decals and the pickguard....I've had it in my head for a couple years and it should start materializing within the next few months....

It'll be a '69 era Tele....Get it, the General was a '69 Charger....Waylon woulda played one, wouldn't he? He played the theme song and was the balladeer....he even had a General Lee!

[BarnesTO]

Not trying to hijack the thread....Ya saw it here first though! Well, I know I'm probably not the first to dream one of these up, but it'll be the best....

Dixiecaster? Wayloncaster? Hazzardcaster? Buck, how 'bout a decal? ;)

[Rizo]

Dang, I shoulda known someone would beat me to getting one together....

[BarnesTO]

I made that collage a year or so ago....first home ownership combined with a first child have put projects such as these on the backburner....but it's coming!!

[mojocasterman]

Buck, those two together are a sight to behold. Great work, man. And thanks for sharing.

[BarnesTO]

I agree....I've loved seeing them come together, and I can't wait to see the Martycaster painted, although I'm sure Buck is the most anxious!

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by Tom S

...But I still think you should build at least one neck! C'mon, you've got the tools out and everything...

You are correct sir...but the Iowa cool season is upon us. Unless I move the "shop" indoors (and I am thinking about that) woodworking projects are going to have to go on hold for several months.

Hey everybody...thanks again for the encouragement, thoughts, and suggestions.

[Tom S]

Originally Posted by Buckocaster51

You are correct sir...but the Iowa cool season is upon us. Unless I move the "shop" indoors (and I am thinking about that) woodworking projects are going to have to go on hold for several months.

I can sympathize. Stinks, doesn't it? It's already too cold in NJ to work in the garage. I thought I might get to build another this year, but I wasn't able to get to it, and now my woodworking is done until springtime, sad to say. I really need to move to South Carolina.

I look forward to at least seeing your current projects finsihed!

[daviddoubleu]

I can understand your situation with the climate.

Here in Taiwan I have to wear a T-shirt now and maybe even a jumper

Hey Buck those Teles look fantastic!

Real class. I bet your itching to wire them up.

Have you decided on pickups etc yet?

Oh and have you made a decision on pickguards too?

[Buckocaster51]

Originally Posted by daviddoubleu

I can understand your situation with the climate.

Here in Taiwan I have to wear a T-shirt now and maybe even a jumper

Hey Buck those Teles look fantastic!

Real class. I bet your itching to wire them up.

Have you decided on pickups etc yet?

Oh and have you made a decision on pickguards too?

Pickups will be Bill Lawrence Keystones - awfully good sounding - and I would say that if they weren't so gosh-awful inexpensive. One of the best deals around.

Pickguards on these, as on all of the Dikkers Pastelocasters®, will be standard W/B/W.

(I realize that the Pumpkincaster isn't exactly "pastel"...but it is still in that series of guitars. Only a few more and I will have all of the colors of the rainbow!)

Thanks for the kind words.

[daviddoubleu]

Oh it all sounds frightfully, wonderfully, super! One should be very happy what.

[jwells393]

..............What.JPG