Drilling headstock for truss rod access - Telecaster Guitar Forum
The Number 1 Fender Telecaster Guitar authority in the world.
   

Go Back   Telecaster Guitar Forum > The DIY Channel > Tele Home Depot
Forgot Username/Password? Join Us!

Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you.


Wilde Pickups by Bill & Becky Lawrence WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Amps, Mods, Pedals dallenpickups.com Warmoth.com seymourduncan.com


Forum Jump


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old July 6th, 2013, 12:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
Tele-Meister
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 116
Drilling headstock for truss rod access

Hello there,

I'm about to start fitting the truss rod to my tele build.. I want to access the truss rod from the heackstock end, I am happy about routing the curved channel and drilling for the anchor.. But I am a little uncertain of how the access at the headstock works,

I know you need to drill through the headstock to meet the truss rod channel, but do you drill a hole the same diameter as the rod, then create a larger hole that the nut sits in creating the tension? Obviously there must be some wood for the truss rod nut to pull against.

How do people here set about doing this?

cheerup347 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old July 6th, 2013, 02:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
Doctor of Teleocity
 
guitarbuilder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hemlock, NY
Age: 60
Posts: 10,015
I would drill a 3/16" hole at the same angle that the walnut plug is at and then counterbore that for the diameter of the truss rod nut you are using in a similar manner as if it had a bullet truss rod. You need to leave some material for the truss rod nut to butt up against. I think it is 3 degrees. Here is a neck PDF showing the channels.


Yep here is a post from a thread about it from EHawley who did the drawing:

Hi Bill...My angle at the headstock dropdown is 3 degrees and my outlet at the heel is 2.7 degrees. 3 degrees at the outlet would be fine. It just worked out to the 2.7 to match with my truss rod arc.

Cheers
ED


http://www.tdpri.com/forum/967457-post661.html
__________________
Membership Chairman-Guild of Archaic Guitarbuilders

The Finger Lakes Institute for Incomplete Projects
guitarbuilder is offline   Reply With Quote

Old October 21st, 2013, 08:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
Tele-Meister
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 116
Hello,

I'm just about to slice the excess headstock material off with the bandsaw and drill for truss rod access. How far towards the nut line needs to be removed before drilling?

I have made my 3 degree jig from some scrap maple ready to clamp to the headstock for drilling. I have my centerline, but can anyone tell me where the hole starts? How far above the nut line should I start my 3 degree hole for the truss rod?

Thanks
cheerup347 is offline   Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links   #
Sponsored posting
 

Old October 21st, 2013, 08:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
Doctor of Teleocity
 
guitarbuilder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hemlock, NY
Age: 60
Posts: 10,015
If you made your truss rod slotting jig you will need to determine where the centerline is of the rod based on where you routed it. I'd draw the curve on the side of the neck blank and project the line over to the peghead/fretboard face. Make sure that the surface you drill into is perpendicular to the peghead face and sand in the contour later. That way the drill will bite right into the wood. If you used a standard measurement for the arch and the neck blank, you should be able to determine the measurement from the drawing too. Nobody can predict very accurately what you yourself have done up to this point.
__________________
Membership Chairman-Guild of Archaic Guitarbuilders

The Finger Lakes Institute for Incomplete Projects
guitarbuilder is offline   Reply With Quote

Old October 21st, 2013, 09:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
Tele-Meister
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarbuilder View Post
Make sure that the surface you drill into is perpendicular to the peghead face and sand in the contour later.
Using a similar style neck as a guide I bandsawed off the excess within 1mm of the final thickness and I left more than enough to be cautious when I eventually and the contour in.

What do you mean exactly by "Make surre the surface you drill into is perpendicular to the peghead face"? I have a sort of stepped edge at the moment from the face of the peghead meets fingerboard level, if that makes sense?

I made my own curved jig so I will try and transfer the curve onto the side of the neck blank to determine the entry point of the drikll bit. Thanks for clearing that up!

I can't seem to access those drawings. Are the links down? Could anyone send them to me over an email?

Thanks!
cheerup347 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old October 21st, 2013, 09:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
Doctor of Teleocity
 
guitarbuilder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hemlock, NY
Age: 60
Posts: 10,015
I'm just saying don't sand the peghead transition curve until you drill the hole because the drill bit will want to wander around. Make a dent with a centerpunch too. Just google fender strat neck drawing...it should be in images.
__________________
Membership Chairman-Guild of Archaic Guitarbuilders

The Finger Lakes Institute for Incomplete Projects
guitarbuilder is offline   Reply With Quote

Old October 21st, 2013, 10:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
Friend of Leo's
 
Mojotron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Age: 50
Posts: 4,286
I'm on my phone, so I'll find some links in a few hours... But if you look at some of my early build threads, I document my trials with this operation and there are references in them.

The basic plan I followed is this:

1 - get the most accurate drawing you can find for that part of the neck

2- plan your jig to place the hole at 3 degrees to hit a 3/16" hole where the edge of the hole lines up exactly with bottom of the truss channel. Use the estimated top of the fretboard or the back of the headstock for all your vertical references.

Roughly, the access hole edge should end up 1/8" down and in front of the nut when all is done .
3 - make a couple of representative necks/neck heads to practice on.

4 - make a 3/16" hole in the center of a 3/8 steel rod

5 - drill a 3/8" hole that leaves 1" to the channel

6 - use the hole in the rod to drill the 3/16" hole int the center of the 3/8 whole

Most of the process I do is in this thread - pages 7, 8 and 9:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...-thread-8.html

Here's the best drawing for that area of the neck that I have found. Basically you want a 3/8" hole that ends in a 1" long 3/16" hole that ends in the bottom of the truss channel.

http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploa...o-03012012.pdf

That is a deceptively challenging hole to make well enough to show off, but one that you really need to get right to get that easy access truss adjustment - which I think is pretty critical as I adjust mine about 4-5 times a year. I have gotten that hole too deep and it sat above the channel by as much as about 1/10" - that can be fixed by putting in a 1/4" shim along the bottom of the channel so that the rod will rest on it. Once you get more than 1/8" above the bottom of the channel you may run into problems with the skunk stripe staying in or even being thick enough in the middle without making the neck crazy thick. As far as getting right in the middle - I've gotten off center as much as 1/8" and it worked perfectly... Most necks I've done have gotten that hole pretty close, but there is a lot of forgiveness in that design as long as you plan and execute your jig for perfection and end up only 1/16" off somewhere.

Last edited by Mojotron; October 21st, 2013 at 12:29 PM.
Mojotron is offline   Reply With Quote

Old October 21st, 2013, 05:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
Tele-Meister
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 116
Thanks for the help guys! I really can't find any drill bits even close to the length I want to continue with this build!

Basically I've found the pack of 3 from Harbor Freight in the US:

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-long...ece-68823.html

and this set of 7 brad point bits also in the US but they want $30 to post to the UK!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Brad-Po...item1c304ee911

I know this is a bit of an ask. But do any of you US folks fancy helping a desperate UK builder out!?

If anyone would be able to accept delivery of some drill bits then post them on to my UK address for all their costs covered, PLEASE shoot me a message as I'd be so grateful!
cheerup347 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old October 21st, 2013, 06:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
TDPRI Member
 
stavx2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Greece
Age: 37
Posts: 46
Hey cheerup347,

I recently looked all over the place and ended up buying aircraft bits from

http://www.tizaro.com/

No problems with the transaction, it just took a while for the bits to get to Greece since -I assume- they forgot to ship my order. One very friendly e-mail later, they apologised and the bits were on their way the following day.

(Just don't wait a whole week for shipping confirmation like I did...)

Those bits, however, are not that cheap to begin with, even over the pond. I spent a total of 47 pounds, but I imagine shipping within the U.K will be a lot less (I think mine was about 15 quid). I just saw the set you found on ebay. I'd have gone for that if I'd found it, brad point and all. Anyways...

They -Tizaro- actually carry a lot of the stuff we see sold in the States (e.g. Porter Cable routers) at nearly the same price. Just make sure you read their disclaimer about U.S. made powertools not working properly using European power.
__________________
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed?
-Hunter S. Thompson
stavx2 is offline   Reply With Quote

Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

/td>

» Random Photo for Guests
Ric1
Untitled Document



 


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2



IMPORTANT:Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult! No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0 RC 2
© TDPRI.COM 1999 - 2014 All rights reserved.