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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tool for vintage tele string ferrules

I've had trouble finding a tool that would cut out the indention for the "lip" on vintage style telecaster string ferrules. I wanted something similar to Stew-Mac's peghead bushing reamer, but they don't offer one that's the correct size for string ferrules (3/8" OD with 5/16" guide). See photo #1.

I ended up making one myself, and it was easier than I thought it would be.

I bought 12" piece of 3/8" stainless steel round bar from the local hardware store, brought it home and cut off a 2.5" section. Then I chucked it into my drill press and carefully machined the last 1/4" section down to a hair under 5/16" diameter (starting with a hacksaw blade and cleaning it up with a file then emory cloth). Next, using a Dremmel tool with a small grinding stone, I cut three angled grooves into the side of the step (roughly 1/16" deep).
I finished shaping the "teeth" with several small needle files. I also tapered the bottom of the guide section with a file, so it goes into the hole easier.

After drilling the 1/8" holes for the strings, I drill 5/16" dia. holes (lining them up with a template I made from Corian scrap). Then I use this tool to drill the 3/8" dia. x 1/16" deep cutout for the ferrule "lip". See photo #3.

It works really well, even if this tool's not quite as pretty as the store-bought stuff. I think it took maybe 20-30 minutes to make. Just thought I'd pass this info along in case anyone else out there might benefit from it.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tip!
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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Excellent! Thanks.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 09:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You must be related to Leo! Well done sir!

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Old February 27th, 2013, 05:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...ml#post1655670


You will need to do a little work on the tall bit
3/16'' to 1/2'' Six Step Bit (3/16'', 1/4'', 5/16'', 3/8'', 7/16'', 1/2'')

Cut the 3/16" and file the 1/4" section to 1/8".
File half of the 5/16" section to 1/8" as well to shorten it to 1/4" (depth of the 5/16")
Now you'll have a 1/8" lead for the already drilled 1/8" hole + 5/16" that follows 1/4" deep + 3/8".
Now you'll need to put a collar on the 3/8" section at 1.7mm and you're done.


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Old February 27th, 2013, 09:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd thought about using Preeb's step drill bit method, but I had reservations about a couple things:

1. The "guide" end is also capable of cutting, so it coupld potentially move while cutting(don't know about you guys, but my drill presses have seen a bit of use and have a little wobble to them).

2. I didn't want rely on the the 1/8" (string) holes being perfectly lined up, as they often "walk" a little as the small drill bits hit hard or soft spots while drilling through 1.75" of wood. I line up the ferrule holes with a jig that keeps them in a straight line (although I have another jig for early 50's style, so they're offset). If the 1/8" holes are a little off-center from the 5/16" holes, I can re-drill them from the backside to line them up.

3. A few inches of SS round stock was cheaper (around $6.00 per ft.) than buying a step bit and I figured I might not get it right the first time (plus, I wasn't sure that my files were hard enough for the TiN/HSS step bits - they were barely hard enough to handle the SS).

If that's what he uses, then I'm sure it will work very well. I just wanted to show another method that I've found to work. ...I like having options.
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Old February 27th, 2013, 11:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Buy the flush fit ferrules and all you need is a 3/8 in. drill bit.

......
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Old February 27th, 2013, 11:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I used to.

However, I've worked really hard to keep the current batch of telecasters I'm building 100% vintage-correct wherever reasonably possible.
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Old February 27th, 2013, 01:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Once you install them flush with the surface there's very little visual difference between the two. If you're going for vintage correct look, then you should only use "Kluson" branded tuners. Non Kluson branded tuners would make a bigger visual difference than the ferrules.

I just wonder why people struggle with the lipped ferrules when the others are so easy to install.
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Old February 27th, 2013, 02:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm not going for a vintage correct look.

I'm going for vintage correct.

I realize that not everyone obsesses over little details, but to me it's the difference between building a good instrument or building a great one. I've done this long enough that I'm no longer satisfied with "good".
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Old February 28th, 2013, 01:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks, fabricator, that's a nifty tool. I'm going to try making one before the next challenge.
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Old February 28th, 2013, 09:26 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah, you can go through the trouble of doing all of that or you can just buy an
"interchangeable pilot counterbore" bit.

You select the counterbore size and then, insert the pilot size you need.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/...ores/_/N-77h7p

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Old March 1st, 2013, 10:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I originally tried to go that route, as I already had a 3/8" counterbore, but I would've had to machine a new pilot - the old one was 1/4".

I looked around for one in the size I needed (3/8" OD x 5/16" pilot) but couldn't find one.
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Old March 1st, 2013, 02:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hey Moderator, What can we do to get this and other "Tool" threads moved to the new group so I can find them when its time?

I am REALLY lazy and dont like looking on more than one spot. I also have the mempry of a Goldfish and forget what tools I meant to "Follow" so i could build them later.
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Old March 1st, 2013, 02:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whodatpat View Post
Hey Moderator, What can we do to get this and other "Tool" threads moved to the new group so I can find them when its time?

I am REALLY lazy and dont like looking on more than one spot. I also have the mempry of a Goldfish and forget what tools I meant to "Follow" so i could build them later.
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