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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 60
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Small body Archtop - proof of principle build
After reading some awsome non-telecaster builds on here, especially the likes of gitlvr's faux acoustic I thought I would share one of my projects with you.
I enjoy playing an acoustic guitar, it's nice not to have to plug in some times, but I find a dreadnought too big to comfortable, I don't even find a 3/4 size classical that comfortable, but i like the sound and simplicity. So I thought, is it possible to build a small bodied acoustic guitar - I like the idea of a teleacoustic, but playing one was a real disapointment, so, a small bodied archtop it is, I mean, how hard can it be?........ Just remember, I really don't know what I'm doing and I'm making this up as I go along... I started with a plank of western red cedar, about 220mm wide, 20mm thick and just under 2 metres long. I cut it into 4 pieces and glued them up to make a front and back ![]() ![]() Started to cut out a guitar shape ![]() ![]() Using lots of relief cuts in the tighter areas ![]() ![]() Cutting tight up to the line ![]() Neck and heel blocks ![]() Starting to think about the carving - got to remember which side is which ![]() Marking out contour lines. I will use these for routing, each line is a step that will cut. ![]() I measure in from the outside edge and mark the first contour, then cut a block of wood at the right size and use that to mark a series of dots inside the outer contour line, join the dots and repeat the process to give 6 contours. Each contour represents a 2mm cut, the centre is 12mm. By the time this is carved and blended out the top will be about 4mm thick. ![]() Ready to start making sawdust ![]() ![]() contours cut, starting to blend using a battery drill and 40 grit sanding disc, running a battery drill slow with a coarse grit removes the soft cedar really fast without making too much airborne dust ![]()
Last edited by Paul M; November 26th, 2012 at 03:41 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hemlock, NY
Age: 59
Posts: 6,360
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Hard hard can it be?.... we'll find out, eh? LOL This will be fun to watch...in a good way...not a sarcastic way.... Good Luck... I have a hunch it isn't quite as easy as a tele though.
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Institute of Incomplete Guitar Projects |
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#4 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 60
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OK, a couple more pics
![]() Similar process on the outside ![]() ![]() ![]() Do this twice, making 2 mirror images and the top and back are pretty much there.... For the sides I have some battens of cedar wood, but they need to be cut into strips and sanded to about 3mm thick. Start with resawing the battens. My band saw just won't cut well enough to resaw, it needs a new blade. So I do it by hand ![]() Then use the drill press as a thickness sander ![]() I really need to tidy this place up! Do this a couple of times to give two metre long pieces and wer're ready to think about bending the sides. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
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I like the cut of your jib
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"No trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced." My Facebook |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Perth Australia
Age: 58
Posts: 521
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I like smaller bodied semis too. The Ibanez GB10 (George Benson) has been calling me for years and I've considered that as a distant future build, maybe sooner depending on your results?
Following with interest. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: orlando
Posts: 149
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man you go from some rough cuts to almost finished in 2 pix.
PLEASE when you photograph the outside do a lot of pix, I have always wondered about that whole p[rocess and have a poroject for january that could really benefit from klnowing how thast fone, properly/ I have some guesses, but I;'d love to see it thanks j |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 40
Posts: 3,194
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This is going to be an interesting build for sure. Keep the pics coming.
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"The difference is that you're crazy like Nicolai Tesla and I'm more like the guy who sniffs paint and rides his bike down the middle of the road" - Me to Crazydave911 |
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#11 (permalink) | ||||
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 60
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Quote:
![]() ![]() Thank you! Let's see.. I started this about 6 months ago so this lot is history, but it was reading some of the projects here that kept me going Thank you Dave! Quote:
I would just go for it, it's only wood and time after all Quote:
Quote:
To form the sides I took a pan of boiling water and soaked the wood in the water. But that wont allow the wood to bend, it has to get a bit warmer! I clamped a piece a steel tube in my bench and heated it with a blow torch so that it was starting to look blue, I hope that makes sense. I then formed the wood around the hot pipe, when it gets hot enough you can feel the wood go soft and start to bend very easily, there is no need to force it! ![]() I couldn't take pictures while I was bending, thats very much a two handed job ![]() I actually bent that too tightly and had to open it out a bit before I could use it. ![]() I aimed for about 95% right, ultimately I can do some final bending when I glue it all together, but it needs to be as near as i can get it. I need some kerfing to assemble the back, sides and top. This is a proof of principle build, so I was looking to do things cheaply without investing in too much bespoke material. So I simply bought a length of strip wood from Wickes, only cost a couple of pounds rather than buying in about £20 of kerfing. I cut it on the band saw by eye, I'm sure that you could build a jig and do the job more neatly, but it works! Gluing the kerfing onto the back ![]() ![]() In a couple of areas the home made kerfing was less than perfect, but with some sanding after gluing it work out OK, I'm sure that using bespoke kerfing would have made this easier and neater.
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#14 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 60
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You're right, you've seen the double cut tele thread, well, I built 2 guitars before those 3 teles, I also built a 12 string tele with a spalted maple top
![]() But that's it, i've never even thought about an acoustic guitar before |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
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Quote:
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"No trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced." My Facebook |
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#18 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 60
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Thanks Warnz, they are Warman P90s http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Warma...-/180996173789
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#20 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 60
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So, some more pictures. Gluing up the first side, before this I clamped everything in place and marked where the sides crossed the centre line and carefully cut them to length.
![]() Lots and lots of clamps ![]() ![]() Second side going on ![]() gluing the kerfing in place for the top to be glued to ![]() Final kerfing going on ![]() Going back to the top, I need to cut the F holes before I gle everything together. I have a template I made for a thinline tele, so I used that..... Very carefully. ![]() Not too hard for the first F hole, but getting the second lined up took some time measuring and marking out before committing to the second cut. I think it turned out OK ![]() ![]() ![]() I can't just glue it all together, the soft cedar top would probably collapse under the string pressure, so I add some simple braces, these were cut from some pine strip wood. I made a cardboard template of the internal curve of the top and used that to cut the braces then sanded them to fit neatly against the cedar. The ends of the braces should just sit on the heel and neck blocks when the top is glued on ![]() ![]() Something similar on the back ![]() I think that this will be a fairly quiet instrument, so I want the opportunity to plug this into some form of amplifier. I glued 3 piezos under where the bridge will sit ![]() It's time to glue everything together, but only after carefully planing and sanding the mating surfaces to ensure a good mating betweem the two. ![]() ![]() I glued it together with the top facing down to ensure any glue squeeze out wouldn't leave unsightly marks under the F holes Once everything has set I sanded the edges of the top and back flush with the sides ![]() Starting to look like an archtop body now ![]() ![]() ![]()
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