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Old November 5th, 2012, 06:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tips on lining up bridge with neck?

I'm about to bolt on the neck and I was wondering what's THE best way to make sure that sucker is lined up with the neck to avoid strings hanging off of neck??

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Old November 5th, 2012, 06:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Assuming nothing was botched in the earlier phases of construction (and you've already drilled the holes in the pocket and the neck), this is an adjustment that I fine-tune after the guitar is strung up. Loosen the mounting bolts slightly, and you can bring the neck a bit left or right until the alignment is where you want it, then re-tighten.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 07:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you clamp the neck to your exact position, you can hold two straightedges (I like metal yardsticks for this) against each side of the neck. At your point of intonation, stick some masking tape to the face of the body and draw (lightly) two pencil lines to give you both edges of the neck (extended). Split the distance between those lines at the bridge location, and you have established your center line. Armed with a center line, two outer lines, and an intonation line, you have many points of reference with which you can locate your bridge.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 07:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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you can use a laser
works fine fore me
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Old November 5th, 2012, 07:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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From a thread I did a while back on how to install threaded inserts. This applies to your question. If you don't want to use threaded inserts. Just drill the pilot holes in the neck at 1/8".

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Originally Posted by Colt W. Knight View Post
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91802A204 18-8 SS Oval Head Phillips Machine Screw 8-32 Thread, 1-3/4" Length, packs of 50 pack $6.82

* I actually use 1 1/2" machine bolts, not 1 3/4", but 1 3/4" is standard screw size for Fender style necks.

( This is a new build, so I don't have pictures of step one)


When I do this on a guitar.

1. Remove the neck, and plug existing holes.


2. Place neck back in neck pocket, clamp it to the body, and install the E strings to line up the guitar neck.





3. I take a brad point bit (same diameter as the body mount holes) and center punch all four holes.



4. Remove neck.


5. Place neck in a drill press vice so its perpendicular to the drill bit in the drill press.



6. Drill all four insert holes. For these particular inserts, I am using a 1/4" bradpoint drill bit. I set my depth stop on the drill press to prevent over boring.



7. I take something like a diegrinder stone to and bevel the top of the holes. If you do not bevel the top of the holes, the inserts like lift up the top layer of wood. Causing it to crack.





8. Tap all four holes.





9. Install threaded inserts.





* I like to set them even with the bottom of the bevel. That way it sits just below the surface.

10. Put the guitar back together.

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Old November 5th, 2012, 07:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Rice View Post
If you clamp the neck to your exact position, you can hold two straightedges (I like metal yardsticks for this) against each side of the neck. At your point of intonation, stick some masking tape to the face of the body and draw (lightly) two pencil lines to give you both edges of the neck (extended). Split the distance between those lines at the bridge location, and you have established your center line. Armed with a center line, two outer lines, and an intonation line, you have many points of reference with which you can locate your bridge.
+1

Best method I've found. Unless you do have a laser.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 11:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If the bridge and nut are already installed, I just use a clamp like posted above and run one long piece of thread through one of the E string ferrules, through the nut, from that E tuner hole through the other E tuner hole, back down through THAT nut slot and down through the opposite E ferrule.

You can tighten the thread and tie the ends together if you want at the string ferrules. Then move the neck back and forth until you are happy with the string path and lock the clamp in place. I then use a drill bit to mark the neck for drilling.
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